Modification Survey Thread

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by Spreadman, Nov 29, 2002.

  1. First of all, great thread!!! The more feedback the better, IMO. I'm a very new mustang owner and can contribute views from a newbie's standpoint. I think I have some things to add that aren't spelled out for us in the parts' directions.
    2003 Black/Tan GT Vert
    Installs are in order:

    BBK 75mm Throttle body: Easy install for a newbie. Had a problem with the throttle position sensor screws (nasty locktite) since I didn't have an impact wrench, but if you find a way to drill/cut the screw caps off, the sensor will slide off the threads easily. Pull straight up on the cruise control cable on the throttle body (since it's hard to see, it took a minute to verify)to disconnect. Installed it and saw that the upper intake plenum was noticably smaller in diameter...hmm. Sticky throttle but adjusting the idle setting with an allen wrench(METRIC?) fixed that. SOTP didn't notice much of a gain here, BUT----------->

    BBK Fenderwell Cold Air Intake If anything, it looks terrific. Some random dudes at the performance shop stopped in their tracks to look. :) Again, easy install for the newbie, but be familiar with the names of basic engine parts and hoses. After hearing a noticable whooshing sound, I thought I had a bad air leak when I took it out the first time, but good 'ol Brad at the perfomance shop checked my set up for leaks and confirmed that this was absolutly normal. I also read in the forum someone had this, too. Also, there was a mesh screen between the mass air sensor and the filter that sure confused the hell out of me. Why was it there with the stock intake? It looked restrictive, so I just set it aside. Now I'm noticing the gains when I step on it!

    With these two mods, I feel that I can claim 10 more horses. I think that the intake plenum may have to go next for the C&L True Flow. I want the air flowing just right before heading to exhaust bolt-ons. Looking to get BBK headers and the Steeda Cat back. Real quick, do the new headers require another X/H pipe or will stock fit it?

    Paul :D
  2. Here is a review of my induction modifications. :nice:

    BBK Cold Air Induction Kit: Not a good mod. Made of chrome plated metal and has a bend in front of the MAF meter which can cause the car to run rich. Noticed a slight increase in throttle response. Other than that, I had no results with it. I since then have replaced it with a K&N FIPK Gen. II syste.

    K&N FIPK Gen.II system: I purchased this piece in the from of a trade with 760-MPH(a member on here). I traded him a K&N filter for his Mach 1 for his K&N FIPK system he had for his old 02 GT. The kit wasnt too hard to install. Lining up the gaskets was a bit tricky but none the less got it done. Overall, the kit is nice. Stays cooler than metal intake parts because its made of plastic and gave a nice SOTP gain over the BBK cold air induction kit. Probably because it lacks the 90 degree bend in front of the MAF meter. Good piece.

    FRPP 70mm throttle body: This piece was a waste of money. I tried it on my GT and the only thing I gained was throttle response. I since have switched back to my stock 65mm throttle body after I ported and polished it. I noticed with the 70mm throttle body there is a loss of power in the low rpms compared to the stock 65mm throttle body. There apparently isnt a noticeable different between the two on top end. Personally, I like the stock 65mm throttle body better.

    1/2in. Intake spacer: Install wasnt too bad. Kind of hard to get the EGR tube re-connected though since everything is up 1/2in. further. I installed this piece the same time I ported and polished my upper intake. Noticed a slight increase in take off and a bit harder pull on top end. Wether it was the intake spacer, p&p upper intake, or both, I dont know. Didnt notice a loss in power either. Ive seen dynos that have shown this piece to be worth a couple rwhp. Ive also never seen any before/after time slips or dyno's which show a loss either. Overall, its an ok piece. I feel it actually works but I dont have any solid proof to document this either.

    Ported and polished upper intake: I did this to my stock upper intake using a dremel kit and sandpaper. I did this the same time I installed the intake spacer. I noticed a seat of the pants gain and a bit harder pull on top end. How much power I gained, I cannot say since I didnt have any before/after dyno's performed. In my honest opinion, this is worth doing. If you can find the time and have a dremel kit, just do it yourself. Its worth a shot.
  3. 01 Black Gt 5 Speed modded in this order:

    2 Chamber Flowmasters welded into stock system - sounded just like every other Stang on the street but better than the stock mufflers.

    Bassani X-pipe with cats and MIL eliminators - added a more muscular sound to the flows and seemed to free up breathing. Mils done just in case SES light tripped.

    FRP 3.73 rearend gear - should have done the 4.10 but was told that I would not be able to go above 130 mph on top end. NOT!!!! Switching to the 4.10 soon to get back the 3/10's of a second I lost going to 18" rims tires.

    FRP 70MM Throttle body - seemed to get better throttle response with the throttle body and the K/N again freed up exhaust breatheability.

    80MM C&L Mass air and 9" conical K/N - seemed like the car was pulling more air in and loved the "whoosh" sound when the car was shut off. Never had an idle that others suffered.

    Suspension Technique lower springs and Carrera shock/strut package - lowering springs were not low enough so I cut 1.5 coils out of the rear and 1 out of the front since the install. The Carrera shock and strut package was had on a deal with Dugan Racing. Quality on the same level as Bilsteins and struts are rebuildable. Took away the floatiness of the stock suspension and the feeling of "sitting on top of the car" with the stock height instead of sitting in it.
    X2C coilover kit ordered and will be installed after 10/24/2003. (allows for raise and lowering of height and takes weight off the car)

    ASP pullies- felt no real difference in the performance of the car but you really won't feel anything below 10 rwhp anyway.

    Steeda Timing Adjustor - set a 13 degrees and car felt livelier after the install. Bolted right up to the ASP pulley kit.

    FRP Aluminum driveshaft - took weight off the car and it seemed to spool up a bit faster.

    Densecharger from Throttle body to Mass air- Loved it and still do. Plastic intake is the way to go because metal conducts heat so the BBK and Mac just look nice to me. Wonder why most companies use plactic now huh?? 4" tubing is huge and did not want to mount the mass air down in the fenderwell due to the fact that C&L stated that you will experience idle problems and the filter needs to be mounted directly to the Mass air.

    FRP shorty headers - ported by Atlanta Chasis and Dyno prior to install. Went against conventional wisdom regarding long tubes because I happen to like a lowered car and my driveway is at a 30 degree incline all the way up.

    Steeda clutch/quadrant adjustable kit - little did I realize that my clutch was slipping but thought that I just needed to tighten it up. Should have done the clutch instead.

    Steeda subframe connectors - strengthened the chasis and car felt tighter; sort of like tightening your own belt.

    Steeda aluminum upper contol arms/Pro3i lower control arms - again to take away more of the Mustang's tendency to float.

    Steeda G-Trac bar and Steeda rear sway bar - continued to tighten everything up and allowed for the car to plant better (upper and lower control arms helped also) and gained the ability to take corners much better.

    Pro3i camber and caster plates - c/c plates a MUST with a lowered car unless you want your tires to wear on the inside and corrects front wheel "bow".

    Steeda Triax - shortened throws. Nuff said.

    18" rim/tire package - wanted a more muscular look. Originally had real 00 Cobra R rims 18X9.5 rims with Kumho Ecstas (245/40f and 275/35r). I have since switched to 18x9f and 18X10r Hyperblack Saleen replica wheels. Sweet. (9/03)

    Wrecked the car in February 2003 to a tune of 9K in damage.
    Got the car back in March 2003 and to the track 2 weeks later. (April)
    Ran [email protected].80 mph at Silver Dollar with slipping clutch on 2" dropped suspension and 18" wheels in April 2003 with mods listed above.

    Since then.....

    Intake spacer - caught up in the moment. Nuff said.

    Mac Prochamber - Took Bassani off and put Prochamber on since this was the big thing at the time. Felt more of a pull up top without cats but power gain maybe 3 horsepower. Getting tired of the hollow sound of the Prochamber and will be switching back to the Bassani with cats soon.

    Dynotune - Dynoed at 243hp and 287tq at the rear wheels. Dynotune with Diablo chip yielded 256.6rwhp/302.2tq. Car felt stronger and rev limiter taken off. Made a mistake and added 3 more degeees of timing with Steeda t/a and car was strong but too much timing added in. Timing adjustor backed down to 10 TDC on 10/20/2003. Car feels better now.

    Aluminum water pump and pulley kit from RPM Outlet - took weight off the front and water pump pulley is smaller than ASP water pump pulley. The pulley also weighs only 10 oz at best. Took 11.3lbs off the front of the car. Good mod.

    Motorvator throttle body spacer - it whistles!! Not sure of any performance gain.

    C&L upper Intake Pleunm - ported and smoothed prior to putting this one one. Love this mod because it sucks like a
    prostitute at a Japanese businessman's convention!! Car pulls better in all gears; especially third where we historically have a dead spot. Along with the 4" Densecharger and TB spacer, makes a means ass sound. No leaks!!!!
    Can't wait for the lower plenum to be complete.

    Dynomx Race Bullett mufflers - 3 inch inlet and straight thru design welded into stock system and cut Flows out. States for "Race use Only" but I love the sound. Different than other Stangs around. Still feel like the Flows choked me off.

    Visual changes are fiberglass Cobra R hood, Hyperblack Saleen replica wheels (now), 00 Cobra R wing, Bullitt side scoops, 03 Cobra side skirts, shortened billett antenna, Mach 1 chin spoiler and 30% tint. I ahve since taken my Cobra R wing off (10/18/2003) and put back on the stock wing moved back 2". Deciding on what look I ultimately want.

  4. Damn, forgot the Spec II clutch - bites like a pitbull......

  5. where the hell are you planning to drive 130 mph? :shrug:


  6. I know some dumb A$$ES who drive that fast on the interstate. :rolleyes:

    Anyways, Ide say even with 4.10's he'de still be able to hit above 130mph.

    Im planning on 4.30s in my auto. Ive thought about 4.56's but still inconclusive as to wether their too much gear for an 01 GT auto. :shrug:
  7. right now with a 5 spd im crossing the traps at 109 mph in 4th gear at 6,200(ish) rpm.

    this is just an educated guess, but IMHO theres no way in hell an auto is gonna get near those rpms/mph while staying n/a with bolt-ons running 4.30s. i say go for the 4.56s, w/o them, i dont think you wont get the rpms you need to run at maxx potential. worst case senerio, you swap to 27x9 Hoosier slicks instead of the standard 26x8.5 ET Drags..


  8. Do you have 4.56 gears or 4.30's ?

    EDIT: Whenever I do the gears, should I do a rear-end rebuild ? Like 31 or 33 spline differential and axles ? Ive been told I should. Im wondering if there is any advantage to this other than insurance against breakdown. I know I should weld my axle tubes and torque boxes up, but what else ? Thanks again.
  9. with an auto you can get away with alot... they simply dont hit the rear like a stick does so you can save tons of cash. that said, if i had an auto this is what i would get...

    31spl axles
    31spl Ford truck Trac-Lok
    full bearing/seal kit

    contact Randy Stinchcomb in the Parts Department on Mod Depot, he will hook you up.

    im running 4.30s with a 5spd.


  10. Thanks. I was wondering how my highway rpms would be. There not bad now but I really need gears to get going. This torque converter is great, just the stock 3.27's suck. Thanks again.
  11. figure on like 3k +/- in most cruise situations.


  12. 3k is a bit high. I might just have to reduce my cruising speeds. Any idea on how that would affect my car in the long run ? Im going to have to drive a couple hundred miles just to reach a decent 1/4 mile track. :shrug:
  13. haha its called the high way buddy :nice:

    ya would 4:10's cut down ur top speed, if so by how much?
  14. BBK CAIwas a real breeze to install, didnt put the filter all the way in the fenderwall though :shrug:

    thats all for now but on the way...
    borla stinger catback
    bbk progressive rate springs
    Pro Charger 12 psi kit
    frpp 3.73 gears
    18" chrome 2000 cobra r's
    nitto 555r's
    either full steeda body effect (cowl hood,front splitter,wing)
    or 2000 cobra r effect(fender,splitter,wing,hood)
    umm wut else am i missing
    the reg bolt ons
    u/d pulleys
    bbk 75mm throttle body

    paint some of the interior silver

    2 12"audiobahn 800watt subs
    2000 watt audiobahn amp
    alpine headunit
    recaro seats
    simpson 5 point harnesses
    rear seat delete
    roll cage
    steeda g trac stage 2 and 3
    bbk strut tower brace
    mac white faced guages
    autometer c2 guages

    the supercharger is the next mod along with the cat back and lowering springs and gears

    ok im sure theres more i just cant think of
    i think its gonna be pretty sick :banana:
    when its done :nice:

  15. Your top speed is going to be limited by power and aerodynamics. Not gearing. Its not possible to tach your stock gears without massive power and aftermarket aerodynamics. I believe a 5spd with stock 3.27 gears would tap out somewhere around 210mph, maybe a bit more. With 4.10 gears, this will drop to somewhere about 175-180mph. You most likely wont hit that speed either. Most GT's with stock rear end gears reach about 140mph before wind pressure pulls them back. With 4.10's, the pull is increased enough that you can actually go further and hit 150mph easier than you could hit 140mph before with the stock 3.27's.

  16. i dunno 135 comes mighty easy :banana:

    a valentine 1 radar detector is like needed real bad

    one time got pulled over by a umarked detectice for goin at speeds up 135mph+
    got away with not even a warning :jaw:
  17. :notnice:
  18. 2003 GT 5 Spd.

    K&N Air Filter - Easy to install
    C&L 80mm MAS - Simple enough to swapout. They even include the tamper resistant torq bit.
    C&L TrueFlow Inlet Pipe - Looks great, helped with airflow.
    BBK 75mm Throttle Body - Not scary to install at all. Improved throttle response.
    Magnaflow catted X-pipe - Had some help with this one (4 hands are better than 2). The newer the car the easier to remove existing equipment.
    Magnaflow catback system - Also had help with this one. Installed at the same time as the X-pipe. Overall install time for exhaust system 1 1/2 hrs.

    PERFORMANCE OPINIONS - I'm pleased overall with all the mods. It had taken a few driveing cycles for the computer to compensate for the changes. However, everything pulled together. All changes in performance were expected except for the slight loss of torque on the low end of the gears. It does perform beautifully through the mid and upper ranges though. MPG (stock) was averaging @24, now with the mods it's averaging @23.8 :D Not bad!!! And with the Magnaflows it sounds great.

    What's Next? - 3:73 gears and a dyno tune :nice:

  19. Agreed. Racing on the highway and cruising at speeds like that is seriously dangerous. :nonono:
  20. Got 4.10's in the 2000 Auto along w/ a 3000 stall, shift kit, and a tranny cooler. :D

    IMHO, I think 4.30's would be AWESOME in a late model Auto. I just might do it before long :evil: