Mt82 Complete Gear Lock Out Even At Idle.

Discussion in '2010 - 2014 Specific Tech' started by poisonova, Nov 19, 2013.

  1. So I've always had the high rpm lock out in a few gears, but randomly today I jumped in the car and tried to put it it in reverse. Never had had a problem before but now it was literally impossible. Figured maybe I just was a pansy today so I tried first first without pushing down, same ordeal. Well after slamming it into gear it finally goes in, barely. So I start moving down the road road and punch it, and it actually shifts better than shifting in idle or city driving. Also when I do get it into 1st and have my foot off the brake, it pulls forward, so it's obviously not disengaging correctly.

    I have a Barton short shifter. Does anyone know anything about this problem or what it could be related to? I've heard, everything from pressure plate bolts being backed out, clutch line, bad clutch(not many miles on it).
  2. "...when I do get it into 1st and have my foot off the brake, it pulls forward, so it's obviously not disengaging correctly."

    it's clearly a clutch issue, whatever the cause. Could be a hanging throwout bearing, bent clutch fingers, warped PP or disc, bolts out, yada yada. Needs looking at immediately so you don't cause further damage.
  3. I am having same issue ... Car will not go into gear unless it's off . What was the outcome of this?
  4. These cars run a hydraulic throw out bearing so fluid level and bleeding would be a good place to start!
  5. they self bleed by pumping the pedal till it comes back. this problem seems to more to be from a clutch starting to fully fail,
    not wanting to go into gear is mostly caused by non or not full release of the disc from a bad or failing master/slave cylinder , warped plate, disc breaking up or badly warped
    we are talking mustangs here and many cases that means some hard driving, if the car was a used or new to us, we have no way of looking inside a bell housing at the clutch unless the trans is pulled,
    personally I'm in the same boat, new to me 2012, with 35.000 miles , 3.000 miles later I'm having to pull the trans to do a clutch job, only in my case it is slipping but with a v6 for safety that means a new dual mass flywheel, plate and disc kit, new bolts since the old ones are torque to yield can't be reused . $1.000 wholesale cost for just in parts, 5.2 hours to a shop in labor
    #5 captchas, Dec 13, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2015
  6. I just read captchas description and explanation, all the while, thinking about 2 things: The electronic lock-out (mpg gimmick) and transmission gear synchros. With all of that in mind, I still think captchas is correct. You need a new clutch.
  7. captchas is 100% right on this. Your looking at a new clutch and all the supporting cast that comes with the job to do it right. I guess I have been lucky. I probably do not drive my cars as hard as some do. I have owned now 4 Mustangs over the years and had to put a clutch in two of them over 100k miles and neither one was because the clutch itself was failing it was because of either a throw out bearing or in the case of my old 2000 GT the clutch fork was galling against the pivot ball creating a hard pedal. Clutches back then were cable operated, I really love the 05- up Hydro clutches.