08GT500
5 Year Member
-Meant to add a few things..
-What year is your Pony, is it a recent buy?
-Coil input voltage measurement when cranking and running,
-Try hooking up a temporary Ground to the Block to battery using the (-) Neg Battery Terminal using a Jumper cable.
-Hook up a spark tester on a few Cylinder’s wires, tester base grounded to the Block & see if you can get a strong arc to reach 3/8”-1/2”. Starting and Running.
-TFI can be tested at Advanced Auto & similar chain stores for free.They generally fail entirely, Spark and Injector’s pulsed ground is controlled by it. Sometimes they get sensitive to temperature changes, still possible it may test bad.
-Whatever occurs, be certain to use heat sink compound on a clean surface when installing again (Dizzy (86’-93’) or on the heat sink, (94’-95’)).
-The Dizzy needs to be grounded, some lube or sealant applied can isolate the chassis from being grounded to the block. Simple continuity test from Battery Neg.(-) to Dizzy chassis.
-The PIP may have issues reading the Shutter wheel passing through for the #1 Cylinder if old, rusty, Corroded or wet..
Very basic..The PIP sends a signal to the EEC, EEC sends a signal to the TFI, controlling Timing...
Removing the SPOUT stops the EEC from controlling timing, it will only be where you set it (10-14 Deg.).. You’d mentioned 23 Degrees of advance at idle?
Some have actually pulled the SPOUT out & advanced the idle timing to about 25-30 Degrees, and it remains there at all RPM’s (EEC adds +16 Degrees to initial timing, but fluctuates it based on input). Usually done as they don’t have a Chip, and want more advance at high RPM’s. very bad move & better ways to do this, did your Car have a Spout installed when you bought it?
A 5 Spd? Motor Have any unusual lack of Torque when shifting gears?
-See what you find.
Happy Wrenchin’
-John
-What year is your Pony, is it a recent buy?
-Coil input voltage measurement when cranking and running,
-Try hooking up a temporary Ground to the Block to battery using the (-) Neg Battery Terminal using a Jumper cable.
-Hook up a spark tester on a few Cylinder’s wires, tester base grounded to the Block & see if you can get a strong arc to reach 3/8”-1/2”. Starting and Running.
-TFI can be tested at Advanced Auto & similar chain stores for free.They generally fail entirely, Spark and Injector’s pulsed ground is controlled by it. Sometimes they get sensitive to temperature changes, still possible it may test bad.
-Whatever occurs, be certain to use heat sink compound on a clean surface when installing again (Dizzy (86’-93’) or on the heat sink, (94’-95’)).
-The Dizzy needs to be grounded, some lube or sealant applied can isolate the chassis from being grounded to the block. Simple continuity test from Battery Neg.(-) to Dizzy chassis.
-The PIP may have issues reading the Shutter wheel passing through for the #1 Cylinder if old, rusty, Corroded or wet..
Very basic..The PIP sends a signal to the EEC, EEC sends a signal to the TFI, controlling Timing...
Removing the SPOUT stops the EEC from controlling timing, it will only be where you set it (10-14 Deg.).. You’d mentioned 23 Degrees of advance at idle?
Some have actually pulled the SPOUT out & advanced the idle timing to about 25-30 Degrees, and it remains there at all RPM’s (EEC adds +16 Degrees to initial timing, but fluctuates it based on input). Usually done as they don’t have a Chip, and want more advance at high RPM’s. very bad move & better ways to do this, did your Car have a Spout installed when you bought it?
A 5 Spd? Motor Have any unusual lack of Torque when shifting gears?
-See what you find.
Happy Wrenchin’
-John