Mustang Clutch Problem?

[stang8384]

89 mustang gt all stock t5 60k miles.

Hello!

I am new to driving stick shift so unfortunately I'm still learning to be smooth and the proper way to shift. I am also not very mechanically inclined!

At times it tough get into gear, mostly 1st and 3rd gear. I've read that the t5 isn't the best tranny as it is and with a novice driver like myself, I'm not sure what is normal and what is not. Is there easy way to test what my issue can be? I've done research and found many different possibilities. Clutch, clutch cable, synchros?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Scott

 

[RaggedGT]

Hi,
The easiest thing I can think to start with would be adjusting the cable. Been awhile since I've had a fox,but I think(others will correct me if wrong.) as long as it has the stock quadrant and cable-you should be able to pull the clutch pedal all the way up until it clicks, and that removes slack.
I would recommend since you are on this site to search for quadrant adjustment,clutch cable adjustment etc. a lot of useful threads/info in this community . Good luck and give updates

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Let's see if we can get some of our T5 experts to chime in, @Mustang5L5 @stykthyn ?

These guys will at least be able to guide you in the right direction.

 

[stykthyn]

I'm going to start by saying the the wc t5 actually is a pretty good unit. It can take a fair amount of abuse if you know what you are doing. Tough to get in gear is usually badly worn syncros. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and guess that it randomly pops out of gear under throttle as well. Start with the advice above. There could be a good chance that your cable isn't getting enough movement to engage the clutch. If this only happens in only a couple gears then the cable likely isn't your problem.
A bandaid fix to this is to try a premium gear box oil such as redline mt or royal purple. If the issue diminishes it will buy you some time until you can replace it rebuild.

 

[stang8384]

I have tried the clutch pedal adjustment trick and have not seen a difference. It has not jumped out of gear on me. And the issue with the tranny tough to get in gear is random. Sometimes it's completely fine.

I did forget to mention that I installed a MGW short throw shifter last year. It probably only has a few hundred miles on it. I guess there is a break in period?!

 

[stykthyn]

I have tried the clutch pedal adjustment trick and have not seen a difference. It has not jumped out of gear on me.

I did forget to mention that I installed a MGW short throw shifter last year. It probably only has a few hundred miles on it. I guess there is a break in period?!

Now that was undisclosed. Did you adjust the stops? Also verify that the shifter base is tight.

 

[stang8384]

I did when I first installed it but I will take a look to see if anything loosened up.

 

[General karthief]

Might I add to look at the cable where it comes through the firewall under the hood, there is a large rubber block on the cable where it enters the firewall, they get hard and wonky, I replaced it with an aftermarket adjustable one, some say to ditch the adjustable plasic quadrant but I didn't and have not had to adjust mine 'cept for an engine change.
These T5s cannot be 'speed' shifted, practice 'aggressive granny shifting', I also agree a fluid change can do wonders, I change mine every 20x to 25k and use royal purple fluid.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Check to see if that top stop isn't set too far in preventing full engagement in 1st and 3rd.

The other cause could be poor clutch disengagement. Try pressing the clutch in, waiting 20 seconds or so, and then trying to put the car in 3rd or 1st. Any tiny bit of drag could prevent it from going in cleanly.

Is it easier to put in gear with clutch in, but engine off? Try this. Engine off, press the clutch in and shift in and out of 1st gear (or 3rd). Do it a few times and this should align the syncho and allow it to shift into geat easily. Still keeping the clutch in, go to neutral, start the engine, and try to put it back into the same gear. Is it harder now? If so, the clutch is dragging. If it's just as easy to go in and out of gear, then it could be an internal syncho issue.

The T5, when new(ish) or freshly rebuilt, is actually a pretty sweet trans. It shifts like butter, and should be silent. The issue is that these are 30 year old transmissions these days, and most, if not freshened up at some point, have issues like whining or clunkiness that are commonly attributed as typical. They aren't. A lot of times, a clutch cable that is slightly too loose is the cause of most of the issues.

 

[stang8384]

Might I add to look at the cable where it comes through the firewall under the hood, there is a large rubber block on the cable where it enters the firewall, they get hard and wonky, I replaced it with an aftermarket adjustable one, some say to ditch the adjustable plasic quadrant but I didn't and have not had to adjust mine 'cept for an engine change.
These T5s cannot be 'speed' shifted, practice 'aggressive granny shifting', I also agree a fluid change can do wonders, I change mine every 20x to 25k and use royal purple fluid.

My concern is if I replace the cable and get the firewall adjuster and quadrant that I won't be able to properly adjust the cable for proper clutch engagement. I'm very knew to stick shift and clutches. Would it be OK to just replace the clutch cable with a stock one?

Replacing the tranny fluid is on my to do list. I've had fluid sitting around but I've been putting it off because it looks like a pain to do.

 

[stang8384]

Check to see if that top stop isn't set too far in preventing full engagement in 1st and 3rd.

The other cause could be poor clutch disengagement. Try pressing the clutch in, waiting 20 seconds or so, and then trying to put the car in 3rd or 1st. Any tiny bit of drag could prevent it from going in cleanly.

Is it easier to put in gear with clutch in, but engine off? Try this. Engine off, press the clutch in and shift in and out of 1st gear (or 3rd). Do it a few times and this should align the syncho and allow it to shift into geat easily. Still keeping the clutch in, go to neutral, start the engine, and try to put it back into the same gear. Is it harder now? If so, the clutch is dragging. If it's just as easy to go in and out of gear, then it could be an internal syncho issue.

The T5, when new(ish) or freshly rebuilt, is actually a pretty sweet trans. It shifts like butter, and should be silent. The issue is that these are 30 year old transmissions these days, and most, if not freshened up at some point, have issues like whining or clunkiness that are commonly attributed as typical. They aren't. A lot of times, a clutch cable that is slightly too loose is the cause of most of the issues.

I don't believe it is the shifter stops because I'd say 75 percent of the time it goes onto gear smoothly. I know I made sure that there was enough play but when I get a little time in will recheck them. It is a huge pain taking out my center console. It doesn't like to cooperate ever since I installed the new shifter.

When I'm checking for drag, this is with the engine running correct? Press the clutch in for 20 seconds then shift in and out of gear? Just out of curiosity, is this bad for the clutch? And is clutch drag a cable issue? I will try these things later tonight.

Thanks

 

[jrichker]

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

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[stang8384]

Did the clutch pedal adjustment trick again and didn't really have any issues getting into gear today. But I get a random notchiness feeling when going through the gears. From what I read, it is somewhat normal and sometimes a tranny fluid change helps. Does this sound about right?

 

[General karthief]

Yes

 

[stang8384]

Sorry I've been quite busy but I just tried something. With the engine off and the transmission in neutral... If I first put it in lets say 3rd gear, it will be a little tough/notchy. If I take it out of 3rd and put it in neutral and then in 3rd again, it is very smooth. I can do this multiple times and it will continue to be smooth. But once I take it out of 3rd and put it in a different gear and go back to 3rd, it will be tough again. This happens for every gear. Any idea what the cause of this is? Or is it pretty normal?

 

[General karthief]

Kinda normal
Change the fluid, I chande mine about 25 to 30k and use a quality synthetic for t5s