mustang exhaust

Depends on what you want out of it. I personally wanted sound over performance so I have Tri-Y's going to flowmaster 40's with 2.5" pipe that do not cross over. I have turn-downs on the mufflers exit, so you really hear the exhaust from all angles.

I went and took a few videos with a digital camera/camcorder. The sound quality is ok, but I'm going to make some better ones sometime next week most likely. I'll do it on some back roads so I can get on her a little more. :D









 
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Personally I would get a set of 2.5" Flowmaster tail pipes ($100 from Summit) and the mufflers of your choice. Have a good muffler shop make the intermediate pipes. Weld all the joints.

I tried the Borla Pro XS on the 351C in my 73 vert and they had a horrible drone between 1500-2000. For my 68 big block vert I got a set of Dynomax Super Turbos because they are supposed to be the quietest.

I actually have a pair of the mandrel bent Flowmaster tail pipes and they don't fit for crap. That had to be modified to fit right.
 
Without fixing the exhaust port problems, big pipes and fancy cams are a complete waste of money. Lotta people can't afford a couple grand for aftermarket heads, so they have to make the stock ones work for them.

The early 289 heads were pretty clean, although port matching helps. When the smog systems came along, the stuff was added to the exhaust ports, basically could not have been worse for performance if they tried. Bad foundry quality control just made it worse. Here's an example showing both. The blockage around the edge is not buildup, it's cast iron. The big "nose" shape blocking the port is the smog pump outlet. Proper port matching produces dramatic results on these heads:

Exhaustport2.jpg

Thats good that you mentioned that, but I have Edelbrock heads.
 
Personally I would get a set of 2.5" Flowmaster tail pipes ($100 from Summit) and the mufflers of your choice. Have a good muffler shop make the intermediate pipes. Weld all the joints.

I tried the Borla Pro XS on the 351C in my 73 vert and they had a horrible drone between 1500-2000. For my 68 big block vert I got a set of Dynomax Super Turbos because they are supposed to be the quietest.

Do you like the Dynomax super turbos?
 
I am going to throw a vote in here for the spintech prostreets. To this day I haven't heard a car that I like better than the way mine sounds. Granted mine does have an x-pipe and with the cam wants to go to around 7000-7500 rpms. It still sounded great though with the old 8:1 compression truck cam it used to have, well as good as it could have sounded.

Thats cool, but I really do not want a chambered muffler. From what it looks like on their website, the Spintech is a chambered muffler.
 
This is my 65 with below engine with a slipping c4, but with 2.25" crush bent with leaking x pipe and flow super 40's. i will make a new video maybe this week with the new exhaust 2.5" mandrel bent with Delta Flow 50's. i think it sounds awesome. and i don't seem to have any drone problems now that i switched the c4 for a tko600.

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The Dynomax flow better then the flow masters from what I remember. They are more aggressive sounding then the Magnaflows.

Thats what I was hoping for with the Dynomax Ultra's. I have read that the Ultra is basically the same that as the discontinued Magnum. Its stainless instead of aluminized.
 
It all depends on the sound you like...

I work for MagnaFlow by the way- On a 400hp motor, most engine builders are claiming around 10hp more with the MagnaFlows

I know of one shop in Kansas City who has dyno sheets showing a 140hp gain on an 1100 hp car going from Flowmasters to MagnaFlows as well....lol

I have an H pipe with MagnaFlows on my cars- and love the way it sounds- of course I work for them- so take this as a biased answer...lol
 
No video here, but maybe I'll post one up after the 408 goes in. I have the Magnaflows with X-pipe, and love the sound at WOT. I do wish they droned a bit less at idle and on the freeway, but that seems to come with the territory more or less. I do have some curiosity about the Dr. Gas/Spin Trap setup, but I'm happy with the Magnaflow kit.

For me, it's all about the WOT sound, especially as the RPM climbs. With Magnaflows, and other X-pipe higher-RPM style mufflers I imagine, the sound makes me feel like I'm racing in the old Trans-Am series . . .
 
i had spintech mufflers when i got an x pipe and dual exhaust for the first time. they sound kinda weird to me. they have the idle sounds fine. but WOT and everything else just sorta of seems to lack the sound of the engine, it makes noise just fine but that's all it sounded like to me was noise. put on Super 40's and i got my sound, put the tail pipes back to the bumper and it got quieter :D. put in a 392w stroker and... omg it's loud again ( above video ) this week i will take a new video of the Delta 50's i like them a lot. but eventually might move to a quieter muffler down the road. i like the ones 2+2 posted.
 
they sound good, i guess if you like glass packs that's the sound you're after right?
btw nice tail lights so bright :O

for "my" next stang ( for the wife ) i'm going to do like you, hide the discs, try to make it period correct... at least everywhere not under the hood. : ).
 
they sound good, i guess if you like glass packs that's the sound you're after right?
btw nice tail lights so bright :O

for "my" next stang ( for the wife ) i'm going to do like you, hide the discs, try to make it period correct... at least everywhere not under the hood. : ).



Thanks. Yeah I wanted the old school sound with out alot of interior noise. I didn't want to go with glass packs, since I wanted it to sound a bit more reserved. The Dynomax provide that. I think my car runs better with them than it did with the Flow 40s, but thay may just be my mind playing tricks on me. I just got sick of Flowmaster, and it sounded like every one else's Fox Body 5.0 and not a classic Mustang.

I like the idea of trying to keep it looking period correct. It just retains a coolness factor.

The tail lights are brighter for a few reasons. I have GE Nighthawk bulbs. They are the same specs as the 1157 bulbs, but have what they call a more robust filiminent and they say it is 20 percent brighter. I also have a headlight relay harness so the headlight switch is only carrying the load of the tail lights. I also have a 100 amp alternator.

The only place I can find that carries these GE bulbs is amazon. They are 3.99.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-1157NH-BP2..._1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1257737952&sr=8-1
 
I know we are off topic a little but here are some options for headlight relay setups.

You can build your won like this.

Brighter Headlights

I bought this one. I did discover that I had to modify the part that plugs into the factory wiring a little so it would plug in all the way. I trimmed off the part that goes around the terminals.

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

If you do go with a headlight harness you can upgrade your headlights too. I have Sylvania Xtravision 6024XV. They are about the same wattage as the newer car headlights. I would NOT recommend running them with out relays though. The OE wiring and switch was never intended to run halogen bulbs (which it can do just fine) but not increased wattage. The original bulbs were 35 watts I believe, and the newer halogen are about the same. The ones I have are 55 low and 65 high. This setup works great and puts alot more light on the road.

The GE nighhawk headlights are available for 6024 too. I'm not sure what the specs on those are though.