I have an extreme mistrust of fan controllers. I have a relay that kick the fans on when the key is on. May take a little longer to warm the car up, but in TX it doesn't matter. Congrats on getting a drive in!
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Ok. Parts. Been a while.
Pair of Borla Pro XS with Pypes flow tubes. All stainless, and pretty nice pieces.
I’ve sure you’ve heard my say I’ve wanted to quiet my car down a tad. These have a reputation of being quiet until you get on it. Also, might make some power switching from my chambered Flowmasters to this straight thru design.
My final debate is tailpipes. Do I try and salvage my 20* year old flowmaster tailpipes which are SS tips, but have an aluminumized section at the muffler; or buy a new set of tips?
I am going to install my panhard bar this fall, so the tailpipes need to clear that. I know the flowmaster tails clear, but need to be sure whatever I buy also clears.
Debate is really the LMR stainless tips or a new set of flowmaster stainless tips.
Pair of Borla Pro XS with Pypes flow tubes. All stainless, and pretty nice pieces.
I’ve sure you’ve heard my say I’ve wanted to quiet my car down a tad. These have a reputation of being quiet until you get on it. Also, might make some power switching from my chambered Flowmasters to this straight thru design.
My final debate is tailpipes. Do I try and salvage my 20* year old flowmaster tailpipes which are SS tips, but have an aluminumized section at the muffler; or buy a new set of tips?
I am going to install my panhard bar this fall, so the tailpipes need to clear that. I know the flowmaster tails clear, but need to be sure whatever I buy also clears.
Debate is really the LMR stainless tips or a new set of flowmaster stainless tips.
Also, I’m sure you folks have seen my collection of pre-1950 Massachusetts license plates on the wall.
My latest purchase. A 1905 plate. This was the 10k plates issued in MA, and likely one of the first 15k official govt-issue plate in the entire country.
A little beat up, but I don’t mind as this style plate in better shape is a $1k and up plate.
My latest purchase. A 1905 plate. This was the 10k plates issued in MA, and likely one of the first 15k official govt-issue plate in the entire country.
A little beat up, but I don’t mind as this style plate in better shape is a $1k and up plate.
Mike, I spent about an hour the other day looking through pictures on lmr's website of the various tailpipes out there. I ended up with the SR performance tailpipes. I thought the pypes set up was pretty nice too, but I just like the look of the straight pipes more than the curved ones. I also hate those kinds that convert from polished tips to mild steel or whatever within View of anyone standing near the car.
Some reviews suggested that they had to do a little more cutting and rewelding to get the perfect alignment, but I had the same experience with a couple other pairs in my time. So, I guess that's just something we should expect to deal with.
Some reviews suggested that they had to do a little more cutting and rewelding to get the perfect alignment, but I had the same experience with a couple other pairs in my time. So, I guess that's just something we should expect to deal with.
Oops.... Misspoke. So used to buying from LMR, I guess. Here's where I found the pipes I liked the most:
www.americanmuscle.com
SR Performance Mustang Stainless Steel Tailpipes 20114 (1986 Mustang GT; 87-93 5.0L Mustang LX; 93-97 Mustang Cobra; 94-97 Mustang GT) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Perfect Replacement Part. In the past if your stock or aftermarket tailpipes were damaged or rusted out you had to replace the entire catback sys
www.americanmuscle.com
Those were the ones I was looking at, along with these. I believe these clear the PHB as well. The SR ones and LMR ones are 304 SS apparently.
There is also these, which are 409 stainless.
I’d prefer 304 over 400-series
I would like to try and salvage my existing pipes. Gonna see if I can even get them out of the mufflers in a reusable way.
This is all over the winter. Not doing it now. I’m still trying to sneak in more drives first. P
There is also these, which are 409 stainless.
I’d prefer 304 over 400-series
I would like to try and salvage my existing pipes. Gonna see if I can even get them out of the mufflers in a reusable way.
This is all over the winter. Not doing it now. I’m still trying to sneak in more drives first. P
So, the LMR ones are the ones I put on Kandi a while back. <Build Thread Link> check out posts 34, 46 & 49.
I had a pretty talented muffler guy down the road with the ability to cut, bend his own pipes and weld everything in place while I stood there holding it exactly where I wanted it. They were also stainless and non-magnetic. So, if you've got the talent, then I encourage them, but if not, then maybe try for a set that is better shaped. I don't know if SR's are the way to go there, either. Like I said, I saw a complaint or two, but most loved 'em and I saw enough pics with them properly aligned (raked upward with body panel & stopped at the rear lower fascia) that I'm confident I will get it where I want it to be, even if they aren't perfect.
And... absolutely not for me on those flowmasters. The transition from polished to turd just pisses me off. Just maybe it's far enough back that I wouldn't normally see it, but not taking that risk.
I had a pretty talented muffler guy down the road with the ability to cut, bend his own pipes and weld everything in place while I stood there holding it exactly where I wanted it. They were also stainless and non-magnetic. So, if you've got the talent, then I encourage them, but if not, then maybe try for a set that is better shaped. I don't know if SR's are the way to go there, either. Like I said, I saw a complaint or two, but most loved 'em and I saw enough pics with them properly aligned (raked upward with body panel & stopped at the rear lower fascia) that I'm confident I will get it where I want it to be, even if they aren't perfect.
And... absolutely not for me on those flowmasters. The transition from polished to turd just pisses me off. Just maybe it's far enough back that I wouldn't normally see it, but not taking that risk.
My existing flowmaster tips transition up behind the wheel. You can’t really tell.
I think whichever route I go, I’ll buy right before install just so I have the option of returning if they fit like junk.
Can’t really see the change since it’s behind the wheel and covered by the tire
I think whichever route I go, I’ll buy right before install just so I have the option of returning if they fit like junk.
Can’t really see the change since it’s behind the wheel and covered by the tire
Agreed. That looks fine. I'll be honest though, it would still bug me. Quirk/Pet peeve, I guess.
I think the bigger issue is that they are 20 years old and pretty sure I clamped the hell out of them onto the mufflers.
We will have to see when we get closer.
Things I still need to buy:
Tailpipes
Battery
Offset rear caliper brackets
Fox-lenght 5-lug axles
Two more 18x9 wheels
New tires
Wire in Megasquirt. Tune. Dyno run next summer.
I did order an Accufab 70mm. I just wanted a nice, polished TB on the end of my intake. Should be here next week. Need to swap the 30# injectors on with the MS and I have decided to switch back to the 180 tstat. The Motorcraft 195 delays too much before opening so I always think I’m overheating. I preferred the characteristics of my old 180 stat better.
Finally, i might pull the rear out to refresh it a bit. New paint, install the axles and brackets and new brake lines and such. I’m going to delay installing my 3.27s until I put some miles on the combo and see how it is with 3.73s. If it’s torquey down low (and it feels it) I’ll go to a slightly taller gear. I never liked the short 3.73s anyway.
Oh yeah. Install panhard bar too.
This should take me a while….
We will have to see when we get closer.
Things I still need to buy:
Tailpipes
Battery
Offset rear caliper brackets
Fox-lenght 5-lug axles
Two more 18x9 wheels
New tires
Wire in Megasquirt. Tune. Dyno run next summer.
I did order an Accufab 70mm. I just wanted a nice, polished TB on the end of my intake. Should be here next week. Need to swap the 30# injectors on with the MS and I have decided to switch back to the 180 tstat. The Motorcraft 195 delays too much before opening so I always think I’m overheating. I preferred the characteristics of my old 180 stat better.
Finally, i might pull the rear out to refresh it a bit. New paint, install the axles and brackets and new brake lines and such. I’m going to delay installing my 3.27s until I put some miles on the combo and see how it is with 3.73s. If it’s torquey down low (and it feels it) I’ll go to a slightly taller gear. I never liked the short 3.73s anyway.
Oh yeah. Install panhard bar too.
This should take me a while….
Same here on the T-stat. Used to run the stock 192. Dropped to the 185* that was at the parts store. Think I'd go with a 180, even. I want time to look at the gauge, realize it's too high and still have a min to make it to somewhere I can shut it down, if I need to. I do believe in keeping the temps there or above though so that water/condensate in the oil boils off.
Are you ever going to a T56? I was running this calculation the other day, because I'm trying to find budget parts to install the spare T56 I have into Black Jack. Turns out that 4.10s with a T56 (0.5:1 6th gear) is like having 3.04 gears with a T5's 5th gear: 4.1 * 0.5 = 3.04 * 0.675. And on the low-end, 1st gear is 2.66, which paired with 4.10s is like having 3.23s vs. a T5's 1st gear: 4.10 * 2.66 = 3.26 * 3.35. What's the point? If you're ever thinking about putting a T56 in the car, 3.73s might be worth keeping, especially if everything's already set up the way you want it back there.
On the megasquirt, do you plan on keeping the MAF? Other guys with MAF & SD tuning experience may be in a better position to opine, but I think tuning in SD is preferable. That's how I tune my two turbo cars, anyways. This isn't some carbz-4-lyfe thing, but rather I always found MAFs finicky and the most likely flaw in a tune issue, and that's still been the case with Black Jack. Anyways, it's something you can consider prior to getting it.
Are you ever going to a T56? I was running this calculation the other day, because I'm trying to find budget parts to install the spare T56 I have into Black Jack. Turns out that 4.10s with a T56 (0.5:1 6th gear) is like having 3.04 gears with a T5's 5th gear: 4.1 * 0.5 = 3.04 * 0.675. And on the low-end, 1st gear is 2.66, which paired with 4.10s is like having 3.23s vs. a T5's 1st gear: 4.10 * 2.66 = 3.26 * 3.35. What's the point? If you're ever thinking about putting a T56 in the car, 3.73s might be worth keeping, especially if everything's already set up the way you want it back there.
On the megasquirt, do you plan on keeping the MAF? Other guys with MAF & SD tuning experience may be in a better position to opine, but I think tuning in SD is preferable. That's how I tune my two turbo cars, anyways. This isn't some carbz-4-lyfe thing, but rather I always found MAFs finicky and the most likely flaw in a tune issue, and that's still been the case with Black Jack. Anyways, it's something you can consider prior to getting it.
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That car sure is beautiful !!! An exhaust shop that welds stainless could remove your tips and weld them to a perfectly bent section of stainless. Might be less moolah that way.
I prefer the 192° but nothing wrong with dropping it back a few, especially, with MS.
I can't wait until my car is as pretty as half the cars here. I've got a long winter ahead of me.
I prefer the 192° but nothing wrong with dropping it back a few, especially, with MS.
I can't wait until my car is as pretty as half the cars here. I've got a long winter ahead of me.
It’s not so much the temp that I want to adjust, but the characteristics.
The Motorcraft tstat opens slow and is very up and down. When I had my mechanical guage on, it wouldn’t fully open until maybe 205 and then it dropped down to 195 with an up and down pattern between 195-200. On the stock guage that means when you start the car the temp goes high, and then drops down. Then it surges a bit. I can’t tell if I’m about to overheat or it’s just having a groovy time.
With the 180 unit I had, it would fully open at 190 so my temp would just climb and stabilize right at 185-190 and not move. More predictable.
I prefer the latter, which is while I’ll swap it out this winter
The Motorcraft tstat opens slow and is very up and down. When I had my mechanical guage on, it wouldn’t fully open until maybe 205 and then it dropped down to 195 with an up and down pattern between 195-200. On the stock guage that means when you start the car the temp goes high, and then drops down. Then it surges a bit. I can’t tell if I’m about to overheat or it’s just having a groovy time.
With the 180 unit I had, it would fully open at 190 so my temp would just climb and stabilize right at 185-190 and not move. More predictable.
I prefer the latter, which is while I’ll swap it out this winter
I wanted to see how the T-5 held up before committing to a TKX or T-56 setup. Gear ratios are a concern so I should plan, but really I should put some miles on the entire combo before changing anything hearing related.
I’m on the fence on the SD vs MAF when I go MS. I’d like to ditch the MAF, but @a91what has stated that MAF tuning is pretty darn simple. We will see.
The MAF I have now is a 94-95 SN95 75mm unit, so hoping I don’t need to buy another. I have a 70mm TB on the way, so my sizing should be ok.
A TKX/T56 and an IRS are on my “would be nice” list, but I dunno if I’ll go that far.
MAF is simple to tune however....... 99% of what i use today is SD
Yep. It's not that big of a concern, as the most common gear sets for Fox swaps come from the the '03-04 Cobras. Their trannies have a .63 6th gear, I believe. So, even if you do the rear gear swap, you'll have options. I personally prefer the .5:1 ratio, because if I'm going to have a T56, I want something significantly different than the T5... I want that 'extra' extra gear on the highway.
Anyways, you're probably miles ahead on keeping the T5 alive, but I believe the one I blew up was due primarily to the Spec stage 3(?) I think I had in the car at the time, combined with sticky Drag Radials. It made the transmission the 'fuse.' With Black Jack, I have beaten the ever-loving s#@% out of that T5, but because I did it with the softer King Cobra clutch, and especially the 225 all-season Goodyears, it still synchronizes & shifts perfectly. That's my working theory, anyways.
Now that I'm headed towards nitrous, already have 4,10s, and have a spare T56, it really makes a lot of sense to pull & preserve the stock transmission. The sale price probably won't increase by the $4.5-6k in equipment costs. So, I'll probably swap the T5 out for the T56, and swap it back in before I sell the car. I do have to say though, that I rarely find foxes with T56 swaps. Maybe it would bring more than I expect.
Got myself a new TB for looks. Figure I go with a 70mm
Got myself an Accufab from TRE performance.
I seem to remember these had the Accufab logo on the blade. No?
Compared to what I expected
It came in an Accufab box? With a sticker as well. I want to make sure it’s legit and not a counterfeit
Edit: nevermind. Searching around on eBay it seems this model never had the logo. Weird
Got myself an Accufab from TRE performance.
I seem to remember these had the Accufab logo on the blade. No?
Compared to what I expected
It came in an Accufab box? With a sticker as well. I want to make sure it’s legit and not a counterfeit
Edit: nevermind. Searching around on eBay it seems this model never had the logo. Weird
Also. Wrapping up some loose ends. Needed a panel plug to fit the original seat belt mount whole on my interior panels. The 90-93 belts mount higher.
Mcmaster-carr part number 9600K517 seems to work well
Mcmaster-carr part number 9600K517 seems to work well
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