Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

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Suck it AOD!!


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It actually came out pretty easy. I was surprised. I did it all alone with just me and a normal floor jack. 2 hours and it was out :)

I'm glad as hell i'm not putting this thing back in! It's heavy!!


I also found out it's not the original AOD. It's got 1989 engineering numbers all over it and my car is an early 1988. Guess that means it has less than 100K on it since that's what my car has.


Almost 9 years ago....still my favorite pic from anything I've done on this car. I'm going back through old posts trying to clean up a lot of the chit chat and reduce the size of the thread
 
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Why do you have to pull the dash to install that pad cover. I though the two nuts were excessible from the glovebox and through the radio bazel?

Guess you are right. Pulled out my spare dash and it's three nuts fairly easy to access. 9mm.

I pulled the black one off by the last screw was stripped st the factory so not sure I can install this one. Technically you'll never see it, so maybe I'll use the red one.

Would be fitting I guess. Red dash is my original dash. Would be nice to have the original pad back in the car even if I can't see it.

I'll evaluate installing the dash leather cover after the armrest cover.
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I'm just going to eventually contact TMI and have them do a fox rear seat cover for me in the same style vinyl as the 99-04 rear seat.

Of course, TMI would actually need to reply to me. I've left a few voicemails that have gone unreturned :nonono:
I have read they aren't the most responsive.

Hopefully you hear something back
 
Decided to assemble my old dashboard and hang it on the garage wall. Everything on it was original to my car except for the guage cluster.

Only part of the original red interior left. Had some good memories of my youth in front of this dash as this was my HS car.

Figure it was better off here than getting in the way in my basement
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It just hit me. This is what I'm going to do for my I-Racing setup:

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I'll replace the gauge cluster with an LCD and mount a shift light on the right (and maybe Monster Tach) - in the usual manner.

Hell, I might put a radio where the A/C stuff goes. lol

I'll be dead before I get all my toys built. :nonono:
 
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Decided to assemble my old dashboard and hang it on the garage wall. Everything on it was original to my car except for the guage cluster.

Only part of the original red interior left. Had some good memories of my youth in front of this dash as this was my HS car.

Figure it was better off here than getting in the way in my basement
IMG_6332.JPG
Mount that dash to a wall and little kids would have some fun! I know my daughter would still like that at 5 years old!
 
A little experiment with a local buddy from another forum

GT500 14" rotor cut down to 13.0" in OD.
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Why? Because 1.25" thick rotor
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They weigh in at 20.6 lbs. Haven't balanced it yet as just need to see if this idea will work
 
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Well, when I did the c5 calipers, one of the selling points was the ability to run 1.25" thick rotors to absorb heat.

Well come to find out no really readily available, cheap 1.25" Mustang rotors. The 2000 R brembos are 1.1" rotors.

Not spending $800+ for 2-piece rotors from Baer, so trying this out. The gt500 rotors dimensions are very similar to the cobra 13" rotor....but 14" in OD.

So this is just a test fit. $60 for the rotor, $95 for the machining. Still need to balance it though, but only if this works.

I admit, I didn't do the legwork. Buddy from another forum who lives local got the rotor machines and gave it to me to test on my car. So let's see if it fits.

It's a massively thick rotor though. Do I need such heavy rotors? Prob not. I barely touch the pedal to stop the car...but i want it ;)
 
He's more of a road racer, so I'm mostly doing some scouting for him. Thr massive rotor would be able to absorb more heat. For my street driving, probably not needed at all.

He just called me to tell me he has a lead on cheaper 2-piece rotors which are lighter due to the aluminum center hat. So this might all be for naught.

Still going to try it out though
 
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Well, when I did the c5 calipers, one of the selling points was the ability to run 1.25" thick rotors to absorb heat.

Well come to find out no really readily available, cheap 1.25" Mustang rotors. The 2000 R brembos are 1.1" rotors.

Not spending $800+ for 2-piece rotors from Baer, so trying this out. The gt500 rotors dimensions are very similar to the cobra 13" rotor....but 14" in OD.

So this is just a test fit. $60 for the rotor, $95 for the machining. Still need to balance it though, but only if this works.

I admit, I didn't do the legwork. Buddy from another forum who lives local got the rotor machines and gave it to me to test on my car. So let's see if it fits.

It's a massively thick rotor though. Do I need such heavy rotors? Prob not. I barely touch the pedal to stop the car...but i want it ;)

Those are the rotors that I have on my car currently, but in the original 14" OD. I do agree they are very heavy, but I will take that trade of weight over the notorious warping stock rotors any day.
 
So should I be able to use my stock upper intake bolt for this? or does the explorer upper need longer bolt or something????

Unknown. I have a Cobra intake on my car now, which has 4 short bolts and 2 long. The explorer intake needs 4 long, and 2 short. So I really need to source out 2 more long bolts.

However, since I want them all to match and look nice, might as well get new bolts.

I believe the lengths to use without a spacer are
5/16-18 x 1.25"- 1.5" (2)
5/16-18 x 6.0"- 6.5" (4)

I also have a 3/8" intake spacer, but I'm going to leave it off for now.

Edit: updated based on actual measurements
 
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