Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
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Got to painting the rear today. Took about 2 hours start to finish including using the prep product.
I highly recommend you use the Marine Clean and Metal Ready products POR sells along with their paint.
I had degreased the axle prior to this, but the marine clean took it down even further. I was amazed at how clean i got it with this stuff.
Then i wet it down with metal ready and let it etch the metal and then rinsed it off and let it dry in the sun. You could tell it changed the properties of the metal.
And then I painted the rear. Was pretty easy. I used a sponge brush and it made dabbing it in the crevices nice and easy.
I'll let it dry a few days and then start putting my brakes on and other parts once i get them back from my buddy who is sandblasting some parts for me.
I highly recommend you use the Marine Clean and Metal Ready products POR sells along with their paint.
I had degreased the axle prior to this, but the marine clean took it down even further. I was amazed at how clean i got it with this stuff.
Then i wet it down with metal ready and let it etch the metal and then rinsed it off and let it dry in the sun. You could tell it changed the properties of the metal.
And then I painted the rear. Was pretty easy. I used a sponge brush and it made dabbing it in the crevices nice and easy.
I'll let it dry a few days and then start putting my brakes on and other parts once i get them back from my buddy who is sandblasting some parts for me.
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skunk21
Active Member
Mike, the rearend looks sweet. I'm having my rearend torn down pretty soon myself, although Dez racing will be doing it. I'm switching to a 31 spline diff and axles and finally geting my mms arms in. after looking at your rearend
p) I might have to paint mine now.
The irs would be nice if on the cheap. I'm kinda on the fence about it, for a weekend car that isn't doing serious roadcourse duties a solid axle car with good arms, springs and panhard bar handles nice also. It might no be as good has irs but I would think good enough for spirited driving. anyways looking good
.
p) I might have to paint mine now. The irs would be nice if on the cheap. I'm kinda on the fence about it, for a weekend car that isn't doing serious roadcourse duties a solid axle car with good arms, springs and panhard bar handles nice also. It might no be as good has irs but I would think good enough for spirited driving. anyways looking good
.
The irs would be nice if on the cheap. I'm kinda on the fence about it, for a weekend car that isn't doing serious roadcourse duties a solid axle car with good arms, springs and panhard bar handles nice also. It might no be as good has irs but I would think good enough for spirited driving. anyways looking good
I missed out on it. Oh well, after putting this much money and time into the solid rear...i should just go with it
My friend just called me and told me all the misc hardware and bolts i gave him to sandblast are done. I should start reassembling sometime next week.
25thmustang
Mustang Master
Yes. I just haven't decided which one I want to use and ordered it yet.
I'll prob get the Ford Racing one. (although someone told me it was a t/a girdle with Ford's logo on it)
I'll prob get the Ford Racing one. (although someone told me it was a t/a girdle with Ford's logo on it)
Btw, does anyone know how much gear fluid an 8.8 takes to fill?? I have my completely drained and cleaned out. Ideally i would like to just tilt it forward, pour the fluid in and then seal the cover up.
I have bad luck with filling it after install. I've tasted diff fluid on may occasions and made a huge mess.
I'd rather pour it in while it's out and i can tilt it forward.
I have bad luck with filling it after install. I've tasted diff fluid on may occasions and made a huge mess.
I'd rather pour it in while it's out and i can tilt it forward.
skunk21
Active Member
The Ford racing girdle is a T/A unit. The other ones I would recommend would be the trick flow or these guys LPW Racing Products, Aftermarket Parts, Automotive Accessories, Muscle Car, Automotive Components, Hush Performance Components, High Performance, High Performance Parts, Rear End Girdle, Rear End Brace, Differential Girdle, Differential Cover, Differ. just make sure you sealer on the bearing studs or they leak. I think it's around 2.5qts + modifier if needed, my buddies trick flow holds around 2 3/4qts.
iirc i used two bottles both times ive had mine open. and a lot of the off the shelf gear lubes have some kind of modifier in them, so you dont need to use the smelly ford stuff either (not that it doesnt still smell bad, but that ford concentrate stuff is rank).
Beasty306GT
Active Member
I bought a girlde from upr for under 100bux....pretty nice.....when i went t pick up my rear from the shop i could smell the modifier outside...stinks like hell......i had to leave the rear in my truck for like 4 days cuz it smelled out my garge....i gave my mechanic 2qt and a bottle of modifier to fill mine...thats what he used
Yeah that stuff is rank. I remember the first time i cracked open a diff cover it smelled so bad. Then a gust of wind kicked up and blew the trickling fluid up and into my mouth and face. It tasted nasty!
I have bad luck with fluid. Every time i do an oil change or something it's a breezy day and i end up tasting fluid or getting it down my ear or something vile.
I have bad luck with fluid. Every time i do an oil change or something it's a breezy day and i end up tasting fluid or getting it down my ear or something vile.
I checked out the UPR peice. I like it, but i would rather have one that's silver in color. I know i can paint it though.
I just don't want too much black under the car. I like contrast.
Leave the drain plug out while filling(only option you have if you don't have an aftermarket cover with a fill plug). Fill the case until the fluid starts flowing out of the drain plug(squirt in the friction modifier first). Allow fluid to drain until it about stops. The fluid should be level with the lower(bottom) threads on the drain plug.
Thanks, but I want to avoid using the drain plug and just fill it prior to putting the cover on.
Got a good chunk done today.
Brakes and axles in. I need new caliper U-braces since my old ones siezed and I had to trash them. As soon as i find a pair i'll be putting the calipers on.
Couple shots of the MM SS brake lines.
I just need to put the calipers on, install the brake hard lines and center lines and get my girdle and it's done!
BTW...the ripply stuff on the rotor is the electrical tape i used to mask it. When i'm ready to install I'll take it off.
EDIT: I will be getting a girdle. I just painted the stock cover because i didn't want to see a crappy part on all my nice new stuff
Brakes and axles in. I need new caliper U-braces since my old ones siezed and I had to trash them. As soon as i find a pair i'll be putting the calipers on.
Couple shots of the MM SS brake lines.
I just need to put the calipers on, install the brake hard lines and center lines and get my girdle and it's done!
BTW...the ripply stuff on the rotor is the electrical tape i used to mask it. When i'm ready to install I'll take it off.
EDIT: I will be getting a girdle. I just painted the stock cover because i didn't want to see a crappy part on all my nice new stuff
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Here's my first problem. I bought these off a guy who said they were for a '93 Cobra. I figured they would be the same as the 94-95 brake lines. I guess not.
Anyone know what these are for? I dunno if i should sell them off, or just get a tubing bender and reshape them to work for me.
Anyone know what these are for? I dunno if i should sell them off, or just get a tubing bender and reshape them to work for me.
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