Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

[hsean]

boy your alittle ahead of me on the rebuild i plan on dropping my rear end tomorrow and then it will be a complete shell.the only thing i need to figure out is how i am going to haul it to my friends shop to sandblast underneath it.i will be doing the por 15 thing as well but i am curious i was going to spray all the bare metal with self-etching primer first then purchase some por 15 and start brushing it on.let me know how yours goes since your ahead of me and i still need to probably build some kind of skid with wheels to haul the body on.

 

[skunk21]

What's a good high temp exhaust paint??


I think this weekend, i'll work on my MC and PV clean-up, rebleed the brakes (then cap the rear line) and then let the fuel and brake lines hang, sand them up and paint them with silver high-temp paint.

I also want to clean up my exhaust and paint it with silver/grey high temp paint. Any suggestions? or any high temp should work like the duplicolor spray paints?

try these companies out. I know of people that have used both and loved the product. the first link offers a stainless steel color.

Hirsch Automotive Products-EXHAUST AND MANIFOLD COATING


High Temperature Automotive Spray Paint - Alvin Products, Manufacturer of High Temperature Automotive Spray Paint

 

[Mustang5L5]

Got a little bit more done today. I finished the steering wheel install.

Write-up is here

http://forums.stangnet.com/763027-sn95-steering-wheel-into-87-89-fox.html#post7692191

That wraps up the interior for now. I know i need to change my red seatbelts, but i need to pull the interior quarter panels out and i said the next time i rip my interior apart, i'm taking it all out to do sound deadener. I don't want to do that at this time, so the red belts stay. I do have the black belts though.

Under the car, i removed and sandblasted all remaining clips and brackets. I also sanded down the existing fuel and brake lines and spray painted them grey with rust-proof paint. I'm not building a concourse-quality car so i didn't want to start replacing every single line and bracket on the car.

Next weekend, i hope to start POR-15'in the rear area.


Some interior finish pics....again

 

[skunk21]

Mike, the car is looking awsome. Love the steering wheel .

 

[Chuckman]

man that steering wheel looks soooooo much better than the stock pos. are the 99+ wheels the same as the earlier sn95's? i think the dark charcoal would go better with my interior if i decide to do this too, espically with my 35th anv. seats.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yes, steering wheel is the same from 1994 to 2004. The colors are different and the leather wrap is slightly different.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Some stuff sandblasted and waiting for paint.


Sway bar is being painted and will be powdercoated red. It's about the only suspension component i will be reusing. The UCA's and LCA's went into the trash.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Some new parts


90-93 Black pullshade. Been looking for one for a while. Picked it up today.

I need one mounting clip that screws to the interior panel though. If anyone has one, PM me. WOuld prefer black but if you have another color i might go for it just to get it in.

Also, got some SS brake lines for the rear axle. They are for a '93 Cobra, but i hope they work with 94+ Cobra disk brakes.

 

[trbkrb]

I think I might have one of the clips, but I'm not sure which one it is. I looked through some of my parts when I noticed you were missing one in your pic earlier in the week. If i find it, I'll let you know.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Some misc stuff under the rear sandblasted, primed and painted up

 

[1991notchbackLX]

dumb question... does POR-15 have a really strong smell? having never smelled it I wouldn't know... I was considering doing something similar to my car when i change the carpet out, except i wanted to POR-15 the floor pans on the interior as well as on the underbody like Matt did on hackjob... would the smell in the interior be really noticeable even after the paint dried?

thanks, Chris

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, finally found some hatch shade clips. These things are tough to find because they usually go with the panels and don't get separated. I need to buy new hatch trim to replace one cracked peice next.


I've got SS rear 3-peice lines coming from Maximum Motorsports tomorrow. SHould be nice peices.

I'm debating buying and adding ABS exciter rings to my SN95 axles for future potential ABS install. Now is the time right?

I need to find a nice diff cover. A FMS peice should fit the bill nicely, but i still need to buy control arms so $200 is better spent there. I might just slap a chrome cover on for now and change it later.


As for Control Arms...Uppers

FMS HD upper arms for $170??

Or Steeda Upper arms for $100 which are OEM style but boxed and zinc'ed

I'm leaning steeda right now.

For the lowers...i'm going with the Maximum Motorspots adjustable arms.

 

[Mustang5L5]

the fms arms are just stockers with newer, tougher bushings yes? iirc, mm says thats all that need to be changed in the uppers? not that the extra boxing wouldnt help, but if its the bushing that makes the defference and the steeda arms dont have it......then again, $70 is $70, so i think id also go steeda espically with the extra reinforcement and plating, you can always change the bushing for less than $70.

Yes, the FMS HD arms are nothing more than SN95 stock arms. I was actually going to get some low mileage stockers from an 03/04 and just use those.

But the steeda arms appear to be stockish arms that are boxed. They also claim to have the stiffer bushings as well

"This OEM Style arm is reinforced to prevent flexing and features a stiffer bushing on the chassis side than factory. Urethane bushings are also included for the axle end. Arms are Zinc plated and come with installation instructions and grease."

http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_heavy_duty_upper_rear_control_arms.php

 

[Mustang5L5]

More goodies. FMS M-2300-M Cobra disk kit.


Anyone got a lead on where i can get the cobra-specific caliper U-brackets?? I have GT stuff right now with seized slide pins. I need new brackets anyway so i might as well get the right stuff.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Maximum Motorsports rear 3-peice SS brake line kit. Now i have SS lines in all 5 locations.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Since the car is all apart, technically nothing is installed.

This is what's going into the rear:

Cobra disk-brake equipped 8.8 with 3.73's
Steeda HD Upper control arms
OEM 8.8 axle bushings
Max Motorsports Lower Control Arms
FMS C springs (hate them..but they are staying for now)
Poly spring isolators
Tokico shocks
Steeda rear sway bar.


Up front:
FMS C springs
Poly isolators
Tokico Shocks
MM caster camber plates
Sway Bar (undecided)
SN95 ball joints in OEM A-arms
13" rotors w/ Brembo 4-piston calipers. (have two pairs of cobra calipers...gonna sell for brembos)

MAximum motorsports full-lenght subframe connectors w/seat rails
Strut tower brace (unknown brand....may sell for Max motorsports peice)
Lower 2-point K-member brace
Rear shock tower brace (unsure if needed really)


I am debating coil-overs, but the car is a street car so i doubt i need them. I want to change the springs out to H&R springs however

 

[Shaolin Crane]

thats a pretty healthy setup for street use, coil overs are nice because they relocate the weight further out there, but im sure you know that, but i like especially i can adjust the ride height when i want to take it for allignements or whatever requires a rack, but if you dont go with coil overs you'll definatly save yourself a crap load of money, but definatly sell that sway bar you have for the MM one, it was one of the most immediatly noticable differences i could feel

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have so much else i want to do non-suspension related i may just stick with springs but ditch the C's for some H&R springs.

I want to do a tubular K-member too, so maybe i'll wait til then for the coil-over setup.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

I have so much else i want to do non-suspension related i may just stick with springs but ditch the C's for some H&R springs.

I want to do a tubular K-member too, so maybe i'll wait til then for the coil-over setup.

yeah im waiting to put on my k member in until i pull the engine for the new 347, but in the martial arts we have a saying "defeat is caused by da feet" its always better to have a great base before trying to do engine work and what not, while the cars suspension is off you might as well do it the first time, for what i spent on suspension and brakes i could have easily finished the engine and transmission, but its easiest to work my way ground up, especially for you since you have a DD, but do whatever makes you happy

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's def my mentality. I have the rear end out, so i'm not putting any junk back in. The stock control arms went right in the trash. I'm picking up new misc fittings and bushings and bolts. Prob more than most spend on their rear, but i want it done the way I want since most stuff is 21-years old anyway.

Engine will be my last issue...because I have no idea what I want to build. I REALLY want a 4.6L DOHC under the hood...prefereable of the 03/04 cobra type

Suspension brakes first....then i move on to yanking the AOD out and finally putting in the T-5 i've rebuilt 3 years ago that is just gathering dust . It prob won't stay long as i will need a beefer trans but i'd rather bang gears than drive a slushbox

Then i'm redoing the interior after all that. New carpet, new headliner, replace a few broken trim peices and get everything as close to 100% mint as i can.

And then finally drivetrain. Maybe a supercharged 331?? Or a 4.6L DOHC with 6-spd. I have no idea yet. That's also why i haven't bought a K-member