Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Drivers side frame rail using donor piece

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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,856
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I cant see how as.........What's the right word......"thorough"? As you are, that you are not dealing with the 50 bagillion holes in the strut towers that are in front of you.

Right under your nose.
They will be dealt with. I just want to get the other frame rail done first. Then I can chip away at the holes.

Last thing I want to do is burn through all my gas doing the little holes. However, doubt that will happen. I used 200psi to do the pass side rail, and have 1500psi left in the bottle.

Trust me... this is going away.
EFA8E496-7053-4071-B3D6-E7F7D5BCC3CA.jpeg
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
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Booster out. The come out a lot easier than going in.



Anyway, time to get at it. Goal seems simple. Put the silver piece where the hole is. Easy enough

828327E0-40CA-453B-8F1A-A7B630FFB17D.jpeg
Is the portion of the tower on the donor piece going to give you more room for the booster/hydroboost?

They will be dealt with. I just want to get the other frame rail done first. Then I can chip away at the holes.

Last thing I want to do is burn through all my gas doing the little holes. However, doubt that will happen. I used 200psi to do the pass side rail, and have 1500psi left in the bottle.

Trust me... this is going away.
EFA8E496-7053-4071-B3D6-E7F7D5BCC3CA.jpeg
I conserved gas when I was welding by shutting it off any time I stopped welding for more than a minute. I'd hang my helmet or gloves on the bottle to ensure I didn't forget to turn it back on. I was able to weld in the toe board patches, front torque boxes, passenger rocker repair, and the full floor pan without having to get the bottle refilled.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,856
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Massachusetts
Kudos to Mustang Parts Specialties

I sourced my hydroboost setup from then. Upon inspection, I found a crack in the receiver where the pedal rod joins the booster. If this fails, the rod comes out.

AFC0BAEF-F20F-4A5A-9644-085957116DC2.jpeg


Upon notifying them, they just sent out a new unit...MC and all. Didn’t even want me to send back the old one. Zero hassle

77AA520D-585E-4C4D-8BC6-92DA30C8E074.jpeg
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
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I am. Dash needs to come out to replace the evap core, so I’ll install then.
I am headed in the same direction: removing the dash to get to the evaporator core. I have already had the dash out once to replace the heater core and I am avoiding it. Soon the Georgia summer heat will get to me and I''ll take a week off to do the job sloooowly…. :(
 
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HotFox

10 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
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Kudos to Mustang Parts Specialties

I sourced my hydroboost setup from then. Upon inspection, I found a crack in the receiver where the pedal rod joins the booster. If this fails, the rod comes out.

AFC0BAEF-F20F-4A5A-9644-085957116DC2.jpeg


Upon notifying them, they just sent out a new unit...MC and all. Didn’t even want me to send back the old one. Zero hassle

77AA520D-585E-4C4D-8BC6-92DA30C8E074.jpeg
You has a welder! JK...good deal!
 

kendawg73

5 Year Member
Feb 5, 2014
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I’ve put it off for years due to hassle, but at this point it’s now or never.

I really need ac in this thing
I took all mine out last year to do the core and Evap... just have to put it back in still... I'm sure you have a shop Manuel, but in case you didn't, the YouTube and interwebs have the wrong info on how to replace the evap... people are trying to use the sealer and epoxy ect. to put/hold the plastic flap/lid on the A/C box you have to cut to remove the Evap..

You are suppose to drill 2 holes and get spring clamps and attach to the spots they put in the housing just for this after it's cut open.. then you just use sealer to seal the crack.. but the spring clamps hold the lid down.. all the videos I seen people are loading it up with epoxy ect to hold the lid down/in place.

1590342354777.png
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
1,966
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I’ve put it off for years due to hassle, but at this point it’s now or never.

I really need ac in this thing
Getting my A/C working is on my short list. Do you know where they sell the conversion kits, or if there is such a thing?
 

Olivethefet

Slap me as well as point and laugh
May 17, 2018
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Enterprise AL
When I was researching new AC systems all I found is that everything was the same if you used R12 or R134. It's all about the oil. If you are retrofitting an old system you have to clean the old oil out. If a new system the only difference is the oil you use. The R12 oil is not compatible with the 134 oil. Hope that helps @BlakeusMaximus
 

JD08

I love your drawers
Apr 22, 2017
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When I was researching new AC systems all I found is that everything was the same if you used R12 or R134. It's all about the oil. If you are retrofitting an old system you have to clean the old oil out. If a new system the only difference is the oil you use. The R12 oil is not compatible with the 134 oil. Hope that helps @BlakeusMaximus
The fittings are sized differently. That might not be an issue if you do all your own work and have the right manifold gauges though.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
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I’ve put it off for years due to hassle, but at this point it’s now or never.

I really need ac in this thing
Ahh the cycles of Fox Mustang ownership...
21-40: Remove every belt driven accessory on the front of the engine not required for it to run, put on underdrive pulley system.
41-60: Put it all back.
 
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