Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - engine teardown

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
But overall wasn’t bad getting this out. Did the trans removal and engine pull myself today alone in under 3 hrs.

My garage looks like a mustang exploded all over the inside. Time to shuffle some parts into storage for a few months and organize everything

Next phase, some power washing. Not too many warm days left so I want to get the car and engine degreased.

Then...I’ll start with the motor first. I’m curious to see the Pistons/cylinders. If everything looks good I’ll assemble, if not...short block time.

After motor is built, I’ll work on the bay

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Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
787
542
103
Long Island, NY
Flywheel. Only about 1k miles on this.

Resurface or just get a new one?
Clutch and pressure plate looked good

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I put a new one on when I had mine apart, and although the clutch was good..... I was told they should wear in together, so I put a new clutch in as well. With only 1000 miles, maybe a resurface and the same clutch is ok?
 

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
flywheel clutch and pressure plare.

King cobra setup (unsure if ford still makes this) with maybe 1k miles on it

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Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
Also, what the he’ll is growing out of my starter?

300 miles or so since I swapped this. Might be worth an email to them

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
13,526
4,267
193
polk county florida
Flywheel get resurfaced, scuff the plate and clutch assembly with sand paper and run it.
What's up with the freeze plug above the starter? Was it leaking onto the starter?
 
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Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
This might have something to do with it.

Factory block heater freeze plug leaking green, oily residue right over the starter.

Good call

I wasn’t kidding when I said this engine leaked from every gasket and sealing surface.

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HotFox

10 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
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SE Michigan
Wow that drivers side looks bad! I cut out a chunk of the frame rail when I did mine is it had a blister in it. It was the passenger side it allowed me to weld prime the inner rail. Then I welded it all back together with a new plate. Check out my progress thread if you want to see mine.
 
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Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
I knew it was starting to bubble, but didn't think it was that bad until I could actually get down there and look at it better. I'll fix it. Biggest hurdle if finding a welder I can use, but i'll buy one if needed.

Pass side is pretty good. I think it's just a surface bubble I can take down and that's all.

But like I said, I want to work on the engine first, in case I need to send anything out to a machine shop (hopefully not).
 
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Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
Did the car see alot of winter driving? Thought it was basically a garage queen.

It is now, but I bought it when I was 17 (21 years ago) and it was a DD for a few years. I usually stored it in the winter, but there were a few times I took it out in snow. But I have been going through the car undoing a lot of my teenage mistakes, and a good portion of the components on the car are new and fresh. Engine bay and engine really has been the last part I've needed to touch

It really hasn't seen much winter driving, so I am surprised to see it so bad. Will need to take k-member off to see how solid it really is. Then decide if I just need a few patch pieces, or something like this. It's hard to tell because it looks like the outer metal is bubbled badly, but it's still solid and I can't drive a screwdriver through.

But other than that shock tower, the rest of it is in pretty darn good shape considering it's a 31 year old northeast car.

Is it a value killer? Perhaps...but you all know I was never planning on ever selling this car anyway so it doesn't matter to me.
 
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DSB88GT

Active Member
Nov 6, 2016
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I thought it would take quite a bit of winter driving / salt to eat up the towers. Surprised to hear that's not necessarily the case.
 

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,330
7,579
224
Massachusetts
I thought so too, but I’d imagine humidity/moisture plays a role as well. That area is 4-5 layers of thin metal held together by spot welds. Any moisture that gets in there stays there for a while. That can also be a reason for the towers.

I think my issue was brake fluid. Prior to my 5-lug swap the original MC did start to leak. I think it just got down into the metal, mixed with moisture and ate it up. No reason for the drivers side to be so bad and the pass side somewhat ok.

If it was purely salt I’d expect both sides to be equal
 
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Boostedpimp

10 Year Member
May 8, 2003
860
243
74
NJ
Damn, well you won't know how bad that frame rail is until you actually cut into it but the good news is it's completely fixable with a nice purse
 

KZGUNS

I can swing up to 11”
Jul 23, 2018
436
124
53
43
chardon, Ohio
If you can weld this will be an easy fix. I have a little bit to fix on mine this winter too when i clean up my bay. I believe you just need 16 ga steel. Pick up some weld through primer as well then when done get some eastwood frame coating with the long tube so you can coat the whole inside.
 
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