Yeah thats a good idea, and exactly what I plan to do this winter... I just picked up axles, 31 spline diff, need to get a housing to weld up and paint, and then toss it together over the winter. Some shocks and struts and I should be in the same boat as you.
Ok did some more work today. No pics but i basically started taking the rear end apart.
3 hours of work and i got a fair amount done. Removed the sway bar, quad shocks, main shocks , springs and broke loose all the control arms bolts to the housing. I have the car set up on jackstands and ready to take it out. I onlt didn't today because I was alone. Next weekend i'll have a buddy with me and he'll help me wrestle the rear out. For 20 years of new england weather, the bolts all broke relatively easy and came out. My car was never really driven in the snow, so it just has minor surface rust only.
I noticed my spring isolators were trashed. I'll need some new ones.
Quad shocks were also junk, so i tossed them out. I'll get new ones as well.
Steel driveshaft is coming out with it and getting trashed. I have an AL d/s so i don't need the steel unit anymore. I just want to take the yoke off so i can stuff it back in the trans to keep fluid in.
Stock control arms are coming out too. I really want to put an IRS in, but where the car is i don't have the ability to tackle such a project, so for the time being i'm putting the solid rear back in along with some new control arms, A/L d/s and resto'ed 8.8 with cobra disks.
I also did some more work with the steering wheel. I bolted it in and took measurements to see where to mount the 87=89 contact ring to the SN95 wheel so it would fit correctly.
SO next weekend i should have the rear totally out. Then i car start addressing the *light* surface rust issues under the back of my car and clean it up and apply some POR15.
I'll tackle the rear end mid-winter. I have a set of 3.27's but unsure if i want to put those in or look for a set of 355's. I'm not a big fan of 3.73's (what i have now) and 5-spd. I like having some taller gearing for the highway so i'm looking into 3.27's or 3.55's.
I lied, i did take pics. Wheel not fully installed as i don't have the horn wiring hooked up yet, but this is how she looks. Airbag is a Ford escort airbag i paid $10 for. I want a pony bag, but they all go for $$$$. I'll just have to wait til i find one in a boneyard or something.
Ignore the grubbiness of the wheel. I tackled this AFTER working on my rear end, so my greasy hands made the wheel dirty.
Also, notice the ashtray console is darker? That's because it's painted. It's the only painted part of my interior because i can't find a black console with working ashtray. Notice how it DOESN;T match? Drives me nuts
Well, i did keep the console. It's just that the top panel was damaged by the previous owner. They hacked it up to mount something on top since it came from a 1990 and didn't have an armrest. I have no idea what was mounted though.
So i got a grey one from the boneyard and got a black armrest of ebay cuz the delete bothered me.
I'm sure i'll find a black one one day. I'm not worried about the door being broken. I'll do the fix. I just want one that isn't drilled into or anything.
I also need a new headliner and door sills, but i think i'm going to leave the interior alone for now and work on the underpinnings.
Yanked the stock steel driveshaft out and tossed it. Removed the entire 8.8 axle and also took the exhaust off from headers back.
8.8 was a PITA. I did it alone which made things worse. All the bushings were fine..which is amazing considering it's 20 years old. Only thig was the LCA's where they bolted to the 8.8....the sleeve inside separated from the rubber and rusted to the bolt. So spinning the bolt just turns the sleeve. I had to unbolt the UCA's, drop the rear to the ground, remove the cat-back and then unbolt the LCA's from the body.
I plan on removing misc. brackets like the e-brake cable, fuel brackets and exhaust brackets and POR-15in' everything underneath after i take care of the light surface rust.
I want to replace some of the misc brackets though. I'll have to track down new exhaust hangers, fuel filter support, etc.
I'll tackle the 8.8 later when it gets cold out since it's in a warm cozy basement. While it's still decent out, i want to work on the car.
Well, big emtpy spot where the rear is. Was pretty easy. I spent the day cleaning up underneath and removing misc brackets and such so i can sandblast and paint them up.
I will be POR-15in the entire underside. This is really not that bad for a 20-year old New England car that WAS driven in the snow. Minor surface rust at the seams. No rot or serious rust anywhere. Before the rear goes in, this will all be taken care of.
And the rear. It's hideous. I decided to take it out rather than try to make it look nice on the car. Gonna repaint everything, replace the bushings and run near brake lines as well as my SN95 cobra disk brakes on the end.
And i did some more test fitting of the steering wheel today. Not ready to be permanently installed. I just needed to measure where to mount the contact ring for the horn. Couple more interior shots. Needs a vacuum badly....and some new carpet and headliner
If it stays relatively warm out i'll try to get the rear of the car from mufflers back POR'ed before the winter. Debating dropping the fuel tank now. I gotta put a 190 LPH pump in, but the tank's full of 4-year old gas Not quite sure what to do with it? Wonder if it will burn if i siphon it off and put it in my GT a bit at a time??
My plans are to do the North Cobra brackets out back. I'll save my SN95 cobra stuff and just stash it away for now. I like these wheels because they tend to change finish appearance in the sunlight and they are nice and open to see the brakes.
I'm going to use crossdrilled zinc-washed 13" rotors up front and 11.65 cobra rotors out back. They are only for show. I have a set of plain brembos if i go AutoXing.
I wanted FR500's on Hack Job, but couldn't do it because of the 2001 axle. I needed a 17X9 FR500 with a +45mm offset and they don't effing make it...I was ticked.
Those wheels are sweet...just watch where you get them from. A guy on here somewhere posted up that his black chrome ones from OE wheel direct were flaking within a year or so. I would order from Mustang Parts & Performance - American Muscle or 50 resto. Somewhere that is more reputable. Don't get those Ebay specials either. My chrome Bullits from AM, are still in perfect shape.
Good and good. AM treated me right. My wheels were the final touch as well. I almost jumped the gun and ordered FR500's in December with some Christmas money I got, but if I did, it would have been a waste. Ordering wheels last is smart. You never know if you'll change your mind about something.
As you know I the 97 Cobra's on my black notch...I'm ALL for those wheels!! Nothing wrong with Bullits either.
A guy I know has 94-95 polished Cobra wheels and the two rears are 17X10. I might go to his house Saturday to see how they fit on the rear of Hack Job. I'm thinking they might sit good at the quarter edge because he said the whole 2" added is in the rear. I can clear that on my car with that rear end. He wants a lot for them though....What do you think about those on Hack, vs. the Chrome Bullits?
But with the GT wheels, they only have 18x9, but they have them in two offsets. I can either go with the S197 offset (6.6" BS, 1.6" offset) or the SN95 set (5.9" BS, 0.9" offset). If i stick with my Cobra SN95 setup, i can put the S197 wheel on the rear and the Sn95 wheel up front??? I'd use Mustang pony center caps as well. WHatcha think?