Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

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So now you have an extra intake. I could use an explorer upper and lower intake.

What's your experience with the weld through primer? I recall Dave saying he didn't care for it and it always gave him problems.

Does it require more heat than just the bare metal?
 
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So now you have an extra intake. I could use an explorer upper and lower intake.

What's your experience with the weld through primer? I recall Dave saying he didn't care for it and it always gave him problems.

Does it require more heat than just the bare metal?

I'm not a fan of it. I just use it to keep the bare metal from rusting until I can get at it with the welder, and then use the Eastwood frame paint to fully coat the inside of the rail properly. The weld-thru primer makes a TON of smoke fumes when it heats up from the welding. Gotta keep a fan going at head height to blow it all away from me. I haven't noticed a difference in actual weld power. I plan to hit the surfaces real quick with a flap disk and get them bare steel before I finally weld. I've read multiple places that it really doesn't make a difference with rust prevention. I have a can, so i'll just use it up.

MA summers are high humidity, so when i open my garage door, all that pretty silver bare metal likes to rust up quickly, so i want to keep some sort of primer on it especially since this had dragged out into a 3 month project it seems (with only 10-15 hours of actual work being done).
 
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I don't use the "regular" weld through primer anymore. I only use a product called Bloxide. You can weld right through it, it actually improves your weld, and it leaves behind an aluminized coating around and behind the metal where you welded that helps to prevent corrosion. You still should final coat after welding IMO, but the stuff actually does what they advertise and works great for areas you can't coat afterwards.

It's a little expensive though.

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So that's why your welds look so nice :D

Where do you get this stuff? Amazon has 1 gallon buckets of it for 350+ :eek:

I usually buy the 12 oz can. I used to get it from Eastwood but it looks like they stopped carrying it. I ordered from here last time https://www.markingpendepot.com/bloxide-weldable-primer.aspx, Airgas carries the singles, and of course Ebay has singles.

The stuff does go a long way, one can usually holds me over for a year or two. The price does seem to be going up though, my first can cost me $29.99 from Eastwood.
 
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I usually buy the 12 oz can. I used to get it from Eastwood but it looks like they stopped carrying it. I ordered from here last time https://www.markingpendepot.com/bloxide-weldable-primer.aspx, Airgas carries the singles, and of course Ebay has singles.

The stuff does go a long way, one can usually holds me over for a year or two. The price does seem to be going up though, my first can cost me $29.99 from Eastwood.

When I make my first trip to Airgas once my bottle runs out, I'll pick some up. Otherwise, just priming the area (non-etching primer I assume) and then cleaning it when ready to weld if it's going to be a few days is the way you usually handle this?
 
When I make my first trip to Airgas once my bottle runs out, I'll pick some up. Otherwise, just priming the area (non-etching primer I assume) and then cleaning it when ready to weld if it's going to be a few days is the way you usually handle this?

I just use regular self-etching primer if I just want to seal an area for a couple days/weeks and plan to clean it up and weld it. I'll wire wheel it/flap disc it if necessary, and then wipe it down with acetone before I weld.

I use the bloxide when I'm trying to primer and area that I won't be able to get to anymore, like a lap joint where the backside of the metal would be untreated and I won't be able to coat it afterwards. Or if the material would be in a spot it's hard to get too and I can't guarantee it'll get 100% coated (like inside a frame rail).
 
Welding time. Just spent a good part of the hours lining this all up.

quick look at my splice piece. A few plug welds into the side and a but weld around the frame and should be solid. Rear frame is getting plug welds and maybe a few small stitches.

coolest day in a while around here. Won’t be sweating my ass off in the garage today fortunately

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Done.
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Yes, still need to do the aprons but I think I’ll stop here for today and prep the other parts first.

some ugly welds here and there, but overall it’s solid. The splice really helped. Plug weld on the sides and bottom did most of the work and the butt weld is for added measure. I made the amateur mistake of going over my welds again, so some of them look a little high. Not going to grind the tower. The MC will hide most of that. I need to grind a little more where the sway bar mount is going to weld back on.

I burned my foot pretty good because I welded in shorts and sandals. Don't tell OSHA. :) Today was fun. Feels good to finally be moving past this step.


Also, take note. if you look around the rest of my engine bay, very little, if any surface rust. So it was a surprise to see the frame rails here so bad. Rest of the car is rust free.
 
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Also, for the sake of future reference, there are a min of six spot welds on each side of the rear rail, and two inside

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I still need to weld on that little gusset piece the factory welds on as well
 
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The rear apron is not in as good shape. I need to clean it down to bare metal very well here. Also, the SN frame rail has a different bend than the fox. It’s more straight up and down. The fox one is at a 45* angle.

ill figure it out. I’m wrapping for the day. Solid 4-5 hours of work today.


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