My 1970 Mustang project - Frame/Floorpan/Subframes.

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by BlackGMC, Feb 19, 2007.

  1. I dont even know where the factory locations are anymore. Honestly, it had cherry bombs when I got it and I put flow masters on it when I built my 351w. I assume it is under the rear seat and if so, the answer to your question is no but I am not doing a heidts kit either. If you go with heidts, you could probably put the mufflers under the rear seat and put turn downs on it. If you wanted to run all the way to the rear you could but you would have to run exhaust tube above the frame rails to clear the cross bars for the sway bar and the coilovers which means a small fuel cell and a lot of custom fabrication to build some trunk pans. It would take up a lot of space in the trunk and there doesnt seem to be any reason not to run it to the side.
  2. I got the first piece of the new tunnel installed today. Since I don't have any clecos I used self-tapping sheetmetal screws. They will be remove and welded up once everything is finished.

  3. I tried out the bead roller today. One tip if anyone is planning on ever using one of these, start out at a shallow depth then progressively make the bead deeper, using multiple passes, especially on 18 gauge. Other wise the bead does not turn out straight.

    Bead Roller



    Installed, not bad for the first time rolling beads...

  4. Just a piece of advise, almost everyone that has a harbor freight or that style bead roller beefs it up. For some good advise which will help you get some really good looking metal work, go to .

    I hope that link works. If I had my camera, I would get a picture of what mine looks like. I have the same style but I put a ton of extra steel on it and it is now free standing and it has plenty of strength. The problem with the hf bead roller is that it is quite flimsy in the horizontal direction. When I get the camera back, I will get some pictures of it for you.
  5. Thanks for the link, yea the Harbour Freight bead roller is lacking in structual stability. It definately needs to be beefs up a bit. The two halves kepts wobbleing and that is what caused my first beads not to appear straight. But for $89 I could not pass it up. No I just need to add some steel to it. Always modifying stuff.....
  6. If you want to go with side exit mufflers I'm using C5 Corvette mufflers - most guys buy aftermarket ones for their Corvettes and sell the old ones cheap - I got mine for free. Inlet and outlet are on the same side.:nice:
  7. That is a really good idea!! I will have to remember that one. Even thou I am about 1.5-2 years away from that point at my current rate of work.....
  8. 1.5 your making pretty good progress, if you keep it up you might be done sooner then you think.
  9. Thanks for the confidence.
  10. So, what got done today? I went to the junk yard to get some explorer rear disk brakes and found out that the brackets wouldnt come off without removing the axles which meant removing the c clips which the owner would not allow me to do. He wanted 200 for the whole axle and all three of the rear ends did not have complete brakes or trac loc so I said **** it and grabbed my tools after wrenching for two hours and went to lunch. I was pretty frustrated but I hope you got more done today than I did. Any pics? I will try to post some pics of my bead roller tomorrow so you can get an idea of what I did. I will also try to get some pics of the front end without the firewall.
  11. Not much done yesterday, because it was cold and I had to clean house..... Hopefully today I will get another piece of sheet mounted and figure out how I am going to make my seat platforms.
  12. Well I got another section of the tunnel done today. I am getting better at rolling bead, but like everything else, it takes practice. Good thing these will never show cause the beads are less than perfect, but it is starting to resemble a car again.

    351_Swap, why are you hunting for Exploer brakes? What rear end are you going with?

  13. it is coming together nicely. I am going to go get some pictures of my bead roller to give you an idea of how to beef up yours in a minute. I am using a 9 inch and I want disk brakes in the rear. I will be using the new style/torino housing ends so that I can use explorer rear brakes. Do you have a better idea for some reasonably priced rear disk brakes? Ill get back to you in a few hours, I have to weld a school project together and then ill be back.
  14. Well I am going with a 9in too, and I saw some brackets on ebay that use Cadilac calipers and rotors (that would be cheap to buy at the autoparts store), supposedly they also have the emergencery brake built in.

    Here is the link

    Here is the installation instructions I found.

    They use 1985 Cadilac seville capilpers. I just checked the price of the calipers at Autozone website and they are like $61 with a $61 core so if you don't have a core then they are $120...


    The rotors are like $32...

    So $100 for the bracket, $120-$240 for calipers, $60 for rotors... If you have a core then it might be worth it....

    The bracket looks pretty easy to make, so maybe you could just make it.....
  15. Alright, here is the bead roller. DSCN1799.jpg


    Here is the front minus the firewall, and yes that is a piece of my half finished sheet metal brake.



    I plan to add a motor to that flywheel and a foot pedal to control it but until then, I have a voice activated motor ( a friend with a pair of gloves).
  16. Wow your car is naked!!!!

    I love what you did with the bead roller. I am going to start modifying mine tomorrow.

    Is that 2X4 box where the Torque box should go? I was thinking about doing the same thing.
  17. Naked it is. It is all 2*3. Thanks for the bead roller comment. I was happy with it. I wish the shear dies were larger though, they dont really like to cut because of the small diameter. The rest of them seem to work nicely though.
  18. Both of your cars are going to be solid, just one question how much weight do you think you guys are adding? I still have to figure out how much I have added, I think my car maybe close to the porker side.
  19. Did you get any of the roller modified? Mine is strong enough to roll 16 ga. in one pass but then again, it also puts a curve in the steel at the same time. It is far easier to go bead a straight line though.

    With all the bad steel and poor patches that I have removed not to mention the bondo, I think I will have added close to 200 pounds at most. This is keeping in mind that the rear rails were boxed and bondoed with some 3/16 to 1/4 inch steel because they rusted through and the PO decided to rig them instead of replace them. I will only be using 18 and 20 gauge sheet for all the sheet metal work so that should remove some of the original weight but I am also adding a ton of bracing so I guess I will have to take it to the scales. I also have a 351w for now with a twin turbo 408 in the plans as well as a t56 and a 9 inch so I have no clue how much that will add. Everything is being beefed up though so I should be able to handle far better than stock when everything is finished.
  20. Naw I have not started on the bead roller. I was actually trying to find a motor to power it. I bid on one yesterday but some A**hole came in at the last minute and out bid me......... But I found another one....

    I think I have added about ~100#s (honestly I am terrible at judging weights). The heaviest part being the 2X4 crossmember and 2.5X2.5 subframes. I guess I am going to have to build the motor stronger.......