Fox My 1990 Mustang 5.0 Lx, Notch.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by robertschultz1, Sep 5, 2013.

  1. Hello!!

    My name is Rob. Just bought my first Mustang. Just jumped ships from the Honda world. Been working on cars for about 6 years now, mostly Honda's but not completely biased when it comes to anything with a motor in it. Right now don't have any huge plans for the notch, but they will definitely come in the future.

    1990 LX 5.0 Notchback 112k on the clock

    B303 Cam

    BBK Shorty's

    BBK X-Pipe

    Pypes chamber mufflers

    2.5" Pipes

    Right now getting used to the "lopey" feeling. It has a couple small things that I would like to fix right off the bat. Right now having an issue with coasting at around 20mph; it will feel like a grinding/jerking motion when I'm completely off the throttle. On the throttle nothing, but when foots completely off it has the jerking motion to it, not sure if it's because of the cam or something else. Going to trouble shoot it tomorrow. The alt output right now is in the "normal" window but sitting low. Oil pressure is not bad, but definitely would prefer that it's halfway in the "normal" part of the gauge.

    Here are the plans for now:

    Clean Throttle Body

    Upgrade to 100amp Alternator

    Replace Headlights

    Wix Tranmission Filter Replacement

    B&M Shift Kit

    FRPP 3.73 Rear

    U-Joint Replacement

    Engine and Trans Mount Replacement (Energy)

    Replace Worn/Broken Interior Pieces

    After I get the little things replaced going to start saving up for a modular swap. I dont mind the pushrod motors, but the new modulars are much more responsive to power adders. Ideally, I'd like to go with a DOHC modular with an Eaton but we'll see what I can score when it comes time for that. Keeping an eye out for a 98-2004 as an entire donor car, that way I can pretty much just transfer everything over with only slight modifications.

    Looking forward to getting this thing up and going but have some stuff I am trying to finish up on the house before I can focus funds toward this. Looking forward to getting to know the fellow owners here and gain some more knowledge.

    1276485_10200189685618989_453821491_o.jpg 1077715_4971687624123_2065660133_o.jpg DSC_0251.jpg DSC_0252.jpg
    #1 robertschultz1, Sep 5, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 6, 2013
    88LX5.Oh likes this.
  2. :welcome: To stangnet! Nice notch.
  3. very clean car! Couple of things I suggest. ( did all of these myself)

    Install a set of MM subframe connectors. It is a must on these cars as they twist like a pretzel.

    Don't waste your time with a 100 amp alt, instead go to a JY or scrounge the boards for a 94-95 Mustang 130 amp 3g alternator. There are many good writeups.

    Also, at the JY grab an electric fan from a Taurus and buy a flex a lite 33054 controller.

    I agree 100% with the 3.73's, especially with the AOD- getting that done now to my car.. You will also need a 23 tooth speedo AOD gear for the trans ( black in color for an 8 tooth trans gear) to recalibrate the speedo. It will really wake it up. If you add a shift kit also invest in a good trans cooler as the AOD is a weak trans and heat kills it.

    Some other cheap upgrades from the JY are

    1990's ford explorer top end- upper/lower intake, heads, and 65 mm throttle body- essentially the same GT40 package on a cobra except you need to replace the valve springs. Many people including myself did this and it will produce about 260-270 hp on a budget.

    1994-95 Mustang 70 MM MAF- cheap upgrade to your stock 58MM. Just need to either fab up or buy a bracket to attach it to the intake tube as flange is different.

    Check your timing. Factory is 10BTDC. Most Mustangs find a sweet spot between 13-16 with the spout connector out. You may need to run premium .

    Check the bushing on the throttle valve cable that attaches to the throttle body. If it is a plastic one, replace it with a brass one. That cable controls the pressure in your AOD and those plastic bushing break and the cable falls out of the bracket- resulting in you frying your trans in a few miles due to a $.50 cent piece.

    The lope you hear is the B cam, which IMO is not a good choice for the combo you have, but back in the day everyone threw that in their car.

    Welcome to the board . There are many helpful people here that have extensive knowledge and can help you with whatever you run into.
  4. Thanks Mike. Already touched on all those things you mentioned.

    It currently has an electric fan setup. That was done previous to me purchasing it. Same goes with the B cam. It is a pretty large duration especially for an AOD.

    Thanks for the info on the 3G alternator, finding one at a yard should be easy.

    I've been considering either the GT40 or GT40P heads but haven't jumped on it yet due to wanting to replace the expendables first.

    With the chugging issue, had to adjust the TV kickdown a little and replaced the bushing on the TB at the same time. Fixed it up a little but still have chugging while costing or coming to a stop. Thinking it may be a trans issue, 1st to 2nd shifts smooth, but 2nd to 3rd there is significant drop in RPMs. Not so much slipping, more like the sense that 3rd has a long gear. Still unsure what it is.

    This is going to be a daily for a while so anything to keep it running in a comfortable manner is what I am looking for. Thanks for the warm welcome!
  5. great looking car.
  6. 3rd and 4th gear have a funky ass lock-up set up with the torque converter. You will notice a more significant RPM drop shifting into 3rd than in comparison to 2nd because the converter isn't locking up going into 2nd

    And I HIGHLY suggest doing what Mike says and put the bronze bushing upgrade for the TV cable. I had a buddy who kept eating up the factory style ones and burnt up his transmission twice because of it
  7. right now I put in a plastic replacement bushing from Autzone since it didnt even have one at all when I first got the vehicle.

    I am going back and forth right now about what to do performance wise when I get to it.

    Should I go with the Modular swap? Overall, it is more responsive to additional power adders and it will be easy to make power quick, only downfall it is pretty pricey to get it done.

    Or, should I pick up another Pushrod and build it with potential for a Kenne Bell in the end?

    My main goal at the moment is to make it a sleeper. Something that I can daily, but when I want it to go it will go. I do have sort of a power goal that I'd like to reach which is somewhere between 400-500rwhp. I havent pulled the plug on anything yet due to not deciding on what I really want. I dont have a huge budget for this and it isn't anywhere on the priority list but some insight from you guys that have been in the game for a lot longer than I have would be must appreciated.
  8. Welcome to Stangnet! Nice looking Notch you have there.

    I'll offer my personal opinion on your hp goals/ideas for what it's worth.

    I would scrap the Modular plan, this is extremely expensive. You have a very solid foundation to work with so start there. These cars with aluminum heads, cam, and intake plus a power adder will make well in excess of 400rwhp and can fairly easily hit that 500 rwhp mark. I would also consider a centrifugal blower (Vortech :D) over the Kenne Bell. You should look into upgrading some of the suspension and transmission to support this type of HP. First things first i would consider full length sub frame connectors. There is a lot of good advice around here so just peek through some of the build threads for good ideas.

    Good luck,

  9. Thanks nick. I've always been a huge fan of positive displacement chargers. I have been looking at a Vortech lately but it seems to be more than a Kenne Bell. I'm sure I could find a used one for a good price.

    I am highly considering a T5 swap. My first mod on my Honda was a Manual swap Mainly because automatics have not really been kind to me. I'm surprised my truck has lasted this long lol.

    There are a bunch of things I'd like to DL before adding the final power adder. In the end the chassis will be fully capable of handling 500+rwhp, even if I dont make those numbers.
  10. Alright, I will be starting to source parts for a T5 swap. I will also grab the rear ring and pinion so I can upgrade the driveline and install the 3.73s at the same time.
  11. Just realized today I might already have a 3G alternator in it. The bracket has already been notched, and there is an aftermarket 4-gauge wire coming from it. It might just need to be replaced which is why it is always running on the lower normal. It likes to fluctuate, it will be a mid-gauge when I first start it up but drops to the bottom of the normal range on the gauge when I come to a stop. It also dims the lights with each chug lol.

    Is there any way to be positive it is a 3G alternator so I can pick up the right one when I get a new one?
  12. 3g alternators dont have the cooling fan that stock fox alternators did. Check your grounds and connections to the alternator before running out and getting another one.
  13. That was one of the first things I checked was the grounds. Still having the issue. Not sure if the internal regulator is bad or not. It has wiring for a sound system, might've affected it previously.
  14. Don't trust the stock gauge. I put s 3G alternator In my car and the gauge did not read correctly but was charging fine.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. It charges just fine. just don't like how all the lights and stuff dim when I come to a stop or just idling.

    Got that speaker cover earlier this week. thanks again!
  16. If you're planning on adding a power adder to make 400-500 rwhp I'd skip putting a t5 in it unless you're having it built to handle the power. I'd build up the AOD. Even though I don't blame you I prefer banging gears myself :)
  17. Alright had a little time to mess with it today.

    Got the timing set up to 13-deg, was going to change out the fuel filter and noticed that it has already been replaced.

    Now I still have the "clunking" issue while coasting or coming to a stop. I checked the driveshaft and there is no play in it so I am ruling out the u-joints. It is not anything ignition related since everything has been replaced. The sound seems to be coming from the front passenger side. It's not just a sound though, it is a physical jerk with added clunk noise. It is a very uncomfortable jerk/clunk too. It feels terrible in the cab and it will do it until coming to a complete stop. It also usually does it more noticeably below 20mph coasting, and above 20mph while coasting you can still feel it just not as vigorous. I would really like to find out what this is, it makes me think the car is falling apart.

    I am a big fan of having complete control of the vehicle. I dont honestly mind the AOD, I just have a personal vendetta against auto transmissions in my race cars lol.
  18. Good looking notch, sounds like you have sound knowledge of cars. Good luck with your build!