My 410W is here

[86bluecobra]

sorry to hear about your family. makes for hard times. what cam are you going to run?

 

[mnsports]

How come no main support or did you put one on?

 

[bluevenom867]

The only disadvantage to this set up over going with a small base circle cam/spider hold down set up is that you wont be able to remove the lifter without taking off the heads.

I had Crane hyd. rollers and they came out with the heads on?

 

[mnsports]

Not nit picken here but did you said H-Beam rods, in the pics it looks like I-Beam rods....our is it just me?

 

[quickGT]

Sorry for no replies any sooner guys, Yes they are H beam rods just cant see them at the angle of the pic. Yes there is a Canton main support on it now. Cam Im runing is a Camcraft cam and double roller timing chain. Lift is at .557 and .597. Im putting the cam in today. Any ideas on cam install as in straight up, advanced, or retard? If so how many degrees

 

[classic boost]

Crane, Comp, and Crower all make these lifter for that purpose.

as far as i know, only crane makes the linked bar hyd roller.

The only disadvantage to this set up over going with a small base circle cam/spider hold down set up is that you wont be able to remove the lifter without taking off the heads.

not an issue with the taller windsor blocks.

 

[pb_paulie_b]

I had Crane hyd. rollers and they came out with the heads on?

You have a set of Crane link-bar hyd.roller lifters on a non-roller block?

 

[1SLO306]

what did u do with the old engine???

 

[pb_paulie_b]

as far as i know, only crane makes the linked bar hyd roller.


not an issue with the taller windsor blocks.

I'm sorry I got the 5.0 and 351w mixed up, you CAN remove Crane lifters without removing the head.
These are the lifters I was referring to earlier.
Comp cams part# 851-16
Crower part# CRO-66335-16
Crane part# 36532-16
Ford racing# M-6500-S58

 

[classic boost]

These are the lifters I was referring to earlier.
Comp cams part# 851-16
Crower part# CRO-66335-16
Crane part# 36532-16
Ford racing# M-6500-S58

the comp cams & crower parts you listed are just standard replacemnet hyd rollers. they're not the linked bars that allow you to use a standard hyd roller camshaft.

 

[pb_paulie_b]

Heres a link to the Crower parts,
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=115+400401+307693&autoview=sku
Comp cams,
http://www.fordmuscle.com/blog/roller-cam-conversion-made-easy/11234

 

[classic boost]

Heres a link to the Crower parts,
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=115+400401+307693&autoview=sku
Comp cams,
http://www.fordmuscle.com/blog/roller-cam-conversion-made-easy/11234

yep, there's still standard non-link bar lifters. the pic on the summit page is just a generic pic, it's not representitive of the actual part. go by the price. you're NOT going to buy a linked bar hyd roller for $200. if you still doubt me, call crower and comp to verify for yourself.
edit: the fordmuscle link is a linked bar, but it's not part #851.

 

[pb_paulie_b]

Paul302, they are on the same page in the link I provided. Scroll down.
$577
If your on the cheap, Cat sell's them for $140.

 

[classic boost]

Paul302, they are on the same page in the link I provided. Scroll down.
$577

your summit page must be showing something different than mine.
66310=$577, 66321=$577. those are CHEVY lifters (check crowers catalog www.crower.com)
66335= $210 is a NON linked ford lifter.

 

[pb_paulie_b]

Paul I don't want to get in a who's right and wrong argument. I have a PAW catalogue that also shows them linked [Crower].
I only wanted to point out that there are a variety of options when it comes to running a hyd. roller cam in a early block.
I personally am goin with Crane ones on my build but their are other choices...PB

 

[classic boost]

I personally am goin with Crane ones on my build...

those are the ones i run. can't go wrong there.

 

[bluevenom867]

You have a set of Crane link-bar hyd.roller lifters on a non-roller block?

Yea,had them on a 74' 351W block and our Dart (9.5" deck) blocked 408.

Gonna be putting the motor back togther (357W) and either selling it or build up my coupe for bracket racing with it.

 

[bgjohnson]

Hey to the original poster. Is that a cartech Box upper? if so, i freakin love those, you can pull the upper and lower intake together.

 

[quickGT]

Im going to sell the old block. The upper intake is a Downs. Hey guys I have a question I know it should be in tech but I cant get an answer form there so Ill ask you guys. I put my cam in along with the timing chain, timing chain cover, harmonic balancer, and water pump. Well I tried to put my crank/SC pulley on (Procharger) and it dont line up right. It sets WAY too far back aginst the block to work right. My crank/SC pulley is one huge pulley. The crank part (serpentine belt) of the pulley does not align with the water pump pulley and the SC part of the pulley is hitting the water pump pulley. I bought a Professional Products 28oz balancer with a 5/16 spacer for a 351W, so I guess its the right one. Did I miss anything putting on the cam, chain, timing cover, balancer, and pump? Is my balancer the wrong one? Do I need a bigger spacer? Or is this the right way? I measured the space between the damper and where the serpentine part of the crank should be without measuring the 5/16 spacer and I got 1 1/8in. from damper to the pulley. Did I push my damper too far back? I thought it had to go back to at least to where the gasket is on the tming chain cover to seat so it wont leak. Here are some pics

View attachment 482871
View attachment 482873
View attachment 482874

 

[bluevenom867]

The balancer hould push onto the crank gear of the timing chain....

Maybe you got a long snout water pump?