Progress Thread My '89 Lx "barn Find" Restoration Project

[1200gt]

Yes. Drove it off the lot in 1989 and was a highway daily driver so easy miles. Everything is original, so committed to keep it that way. Although today... My patience is being tested.... Replaced the voltage regulator. All good, ran it up to temp to set idle per the excellent advice on this forum... And after getting everything set and running perfect at 750 to 850 rpm I noticed a horrible smell and a lot of smoke coming out of the alternator. I have smelled the distinct electrical smell before and so it would seem the rectifier diodes (original and not-replaced) decided to commit suicide... So now it will be the decision... do I go one step further and replace diode pack after replacing vreg and brushes or get a whole new woefully inadequate but original G2 alternator... I like a good challenge so looks like new diodes are next...

Hope the diodes are the last part you'll need; any more and you'll have a new alternator, but the expensive way. I looked on the tube and found a guy that works on alternators. He demonstrates the processes for replacing the parts, but when I calculated the cost it didn't seem to value out. However I've been down that road where you're too deep into it to justify turning back.

On the water-pump above: I read-up on this a years ago, but my mind didn't retain it: Why do you think Ford didn't just go with a high flow water-pump as oem on our cars? What did you glean from your research?

 

[mrobins26]

Hope the diodes are the last part you'll need; any more and you'll have a new alternator, but the expensive way. I looked on the tube and found a guy that works on alternators. He demonstrates the processes for replacing the parts, but when I calculated the cost it didn't seem to value out. However I've been down that road where you're too deep into it to justify turning back.

On the water-pump above: I read-up on this a years ago, but my mind didn't retain it: Why do you think Ford didn't just go with a high flow water-pump as oem on our cars? What did you glean from your research?

I hear you 1200gt... It looked like originally it was just brushes... $3, then Vreg another $24, now diodes ~$30... Oh well, I learned how to rebuild an alternator.

The water pump was a decision based on how cheap they are and the non aluminum tubing where the water hoses connect being so rusted. I can't really tell much difference from the hi flow and standard one. My guess is the impeller design, but didn't want to take off the back to find out.

 

[mrobins26]

I am back to being gainfully employed and will start up again at the end of this month

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I am back to being gainfully employed and will start up again at the end of this month

Woohoo!

 

[1200gt]

I am back to being gainfully employed and will start up again at the end of this month

Soooooo awesome to hear the good news!!!! we will be waiting to see your next undertaking.

I bought a house out of town and am now in the process of planning the shift of all things, including the unfinished 86 vert and its pile of parts to the new location. The good news is I am building a 40x60 ft. metal building on the property that will be my new elbow-room shop to get my project moving more easily. Right now, I'm in a 1 car and its a mess to keep control of all the parts and upgrades.

Best wishes,

Dwayne

 

[JeffC]

Cleaned up the wheels and repainted center caps while I was at it...

What did you use too clean the wheels?
They turned out great.

 

[mrobins26]

Okay possibly can finally get back to getting this thing on the road... I finally have accepted that you either have time or you have money, but rarely both at the same time.
Davedacarpainter… prepping everything for essentially a scuff and puff. Pictures to follow soon. First question... dole out $300 for new front bumper cover or try and restore the old one... other than some curb scratches, a little waviness, and the original dealer holes created from the license plate holder (I hate Texas law requiring front plates) it looks useable...

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Okay possibly can finally get back to getting this thing on the road... I finally have accepted that you either have time or you have money, but rarely both at the same time.
Davedacarpainter… prepping everything for essentially a scuff and puff. Pictures to follow soon. First question... dole out $300 for new front bumper cover or try and restore the old one... other than some curb scratches, a little waviness, and the original dealer holes created from the license plate holder (I hate Texas law requiring front plates) it looks useable...

Easy answer for that is that for me I would fix the old bumper. It really depends on your learned skills and desire to repair stuff.

Post a picture of it for me, I can walk you through a repair easy enough.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Yes, repair your original cover. The replacement bumper covers won’t fit as good as your original one. Looking forward to seeing more progress. Nice work man!

 

[mrobins26]

Here is the front bumper cover.

 

[mrobins26]

Here is the progress on preparing the rest... Still have a lot to go... The only body issues are the two small dents across top of fender from a highway air born object (lugnut?) that I was relieved when it didn't go straight through the windshield. The other issue is the damage to the lower right rock skirt that was caused by unavoidable highway debris that kicked up and took a bite out of the side but no dent. Then the surface rust at the top fender corner. I was surprised to see what was on/off the car when ford originally sprayed color.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Glad to see you still at it. Not sure what your budget allows, but paint is the biggest area I would not skimp out.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Here is the front bumper cover.

That bumper is in great condition, easy repairs there. Not a lot you can do about the waviness, it’s just the sht plastic Ford was using at the time.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Here is the progress on preparing the rest... Still have a lot to go... The only body issues are the two small dents across top of fender from a highway air born object (lugnut?) that I was relieved when it didn't go straight through the windshield. The other issue is the damage to the lower right rock skirt that was caused by unavoidable highway debris that kicked up and took a bite out of the side but no dent. Then the surface rust at the top fender corner. I was surprised to see what was on/off the car when ford originally sprayed color.

The rocker has exposed bondo, it’s been repaired before.

The fender was repainted as well, it’s an easy fix on it though. The rust line you see in the jamb is very common and another easy fix. I might even guess that’s a replacement fender.

 

[mrobins26]

The rocker has exposed bondo, it’s been repaired before.

The fender was repainted as well, it’s an easy fix on it though. The rust line you see in the jamb is very common and another easy fix. I might even guess that’s a replacement fender.

The rocker has never been re-painted and the fender has never been replaced. What you see isn't bondo, it is primer. The car has never been in an accident. The fender still has the little white build sticker that seems to be on every part. The rocker damage was due to running over some debris on the highway that kicked up and hit the rocker. In that area it looks like a very heavy handed color application from the factory. The paint is super thick there and for lack of a better word "brittle" it doesn't appear to have adhered properly the first time as it can flake off. I figured I would need to sand this back and feather it until I get to solid foundation. The fender is from parking it in the Texas sun most of its life... I will try to get a better picture of the rocker...

 

[mrobins26]

That bumper is in great condition, easy repairs there. Not a lot you can do about the waviness, it’s just the sht plastic Ford was using at the time.

I started looking into a plastic welder with urethane rod to fill in the holes and one UV damaged low area. I have also looked at products from Isopon to bondo. Ranging from $40 all the way down to $4. Any preferences? The back bumper cover has the hairline paint crack issue that hopefully do not run too deep and can be handled by sanding and using a high build primer of some sort? Any advice is most welcome.

 

[90sickfox]

Ther best stuff I've used on the factory urethane ( yellow ) plastic is 3m4747. That stuff became one with the urethane. Its an epoxy and not cheap. But can be worked quickly. It doesn't work as well on abs or poly but it will fill any low spots, scratches, or tears in urethane.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I started looking into a plastic welder with urethane rod to fill in the holes and one UV damaged low area. I have also looked at products from Isopon to bondo. Ranging from $40 all the way down to $4. Any preferences? The back bumper cover has the hairline paint crack issue that hopefully do not run too deep and can be handled by sanding and using a high build primer of some sort? Any advice is most welcome.

What you'll need to check on the rear bumper where the cracking is if the cracking extends into the plastic.

You'll want a primer intended for flexible parts when you work on it.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

The rocker has never been re-painted and the fender has never been replaced. What you see isn't bondo, it is primer. The car has never been in an accident. The fender still has the little white build sticker that seems to be on every part. The rocker damage was due to running over some debris on the highway that kicked up and hit the rocker. In that area it looks like a very heavy handed color application from the factory. The paint is super thick there and for lack of a better word "brittle" it doesn't appear to have adhered properly the first time as it can flake off. I figured I would need to sand this back and feather it until I get to solid foundation. The fender is from parking it in the Texas sun most of its life... I will try to get a better picture of the rocker...

Hum, Ok.

Factory paint jobs from the eighties and nineties had issues with long term adhesion. There was an extended period of time that we were stripping complete vehicles and repainting them. LOTS AND LOTS of fords, ford paid for the warranty work and I made good money doing it, but I got sick of doing completes. Chevy had a mondo problem as well during this period.

The white layer on your fender is similar to the issue we used to have. It's not feathering out. It'll lift real easy there when you primer it. Spray a couple "dry" coats at first to help create a barrier from the solvents in your primer.

I've got to admit, a better picture of the rocker would help me see the issues.

I don't mean to comment when you haven't asked for my opinion btw. I'm not trying to offend.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Hum, Ok.

Factory paint jobs from the eighties and nineties had issues with long term adhesion. There was an extended period of time that we were stripping complete vehicles and repainting them. LOTS AND LOTS of fords, ford paid for the warranty work and I made good money doing it, but I got sick of doing completes. Chevy had a mondo problem as well during this period.

The white layer on your fender is similar to the issue we used to have. It's not feathering out. It'll lift real easy there when you primer it. Spray a couple "dry" coats at first to help create a barrier from the solvents in your primer.

I've got to admit, a better picture of the rocker would help me see the issues.

I don't mean to comment when you haven't asked for my opinion btw. I'm not trying to offend.

It looked like bondo to me too Mike.