If you were set up with an E85 fuel system, would that help to prevent some of the corrosion problems with meth injection?
If you were set up with an E85 fuel system, would that help to prevent some of the corrosion problems with meth injection?
No E85 for me, I'd like to keep it simple besides the fact that nobody even sells E85 in my area which is why groverdill is switching back to gasoline.If you were set up with an E85 fuel system, would that help to prevent some of the corrosion problems with meth injection?
Meth kits fail , run out usually at the wrong time all while running aggressive timing . Stuff is corrosive .
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Thanks for your advice and I just recently got hooked on chess.A2A.
Chess huh?
X2 A2A. Is better option.
Same here. Been a cold and snowy b**** lately. -18 for low on Sunday. I hate winterNo E85 for me, I'd like to keep it simple besides the fact that nobody even sells E85 in my area which is why groverdill is switching back to gasoline.
Thanks for your advice and I just recently got hooked on chess.
A2A FTW, which may be a summer time project or next winter, we'll see. I have some time off over Christmas so I'm hoping to have everything ready for the engine to be installed back in to the car. Need the weather to warm up a little bit first, low temps at night have been either in single digits or in the -10'ish range. Today it will warm up for a high of 21*. I made room in my garage to pull my truck in which is a tight fit. Once this cold spell is done (a few more days) I can get my truck out of the garage and get working on installing the UPR kmember.
It would be some work but nothing too difficult. I saw the write up that 92rohcp did and it looks pretty straight forward and the reduced IAT was pretty dramatic. I just got to know how a twin screw feels with all that torque down low. Sounds like a blast on the street.If doing it for the fun of doing it.... Ride on wityur badselfs.
If not... Sell the SC and buy a centri. This is coming from someone who loves twin-screws.
PM me if you consider that route. I might have a trade in mind.
I got a good deal on it locally on CLAny reason you went with tubular K?
Honestly it's not a modification I would've done if I didn't already have the engine out. I removed my AC because I don't want to hack my AC lines for the KB install. I'm going to box it up and store it away in the event I remove the KB or I sell the car. With our long cold winters I don't mind the heat for the short amount of time it actually gets in the nineties where I live.I've been contemplating getting one. AC is at the top of my list this year though. Oh and window seals. Can't forget those.
I ran out of time last night but this evening when I get home I'm going to flip it over and remove the pan. I have a new Melling oil pump, pick up, ARP shaft etc to install. The car ran perfect with good oil pressure so I'm leaning toward just a crusty covered engine that needs a cleaning.Ummm... are you going to look at the bearings and see what you actually have going on?
Not trying to be a schmartash... but a dirty engine doesn't necessitate a rebuild, worn parts does, however. The aforementioned sludge may be an indicator (but not necessarily) of a worn engine. Or at least one that has been neglected..
I'd pop the pan, and a cap or three.. if the bearings are worn go through it. If not, hit it with some purple power and a water hose and clean it up.. then hose it down with wd40 before it rusts.