My 95 v6 to v8 conversion project. Advice needed

Stangzpride

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Jul 27, 2018
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Hey everyone, I’m new to this forum, as well as new to the world of mustangs. I have always been a Chevy fan, having owned 3 camaros prior to me acquiring my 95 mustang. Well long story short, the camaros I owned we’re all very problematic, and required repairs on a regular basis. I got tired of the chevys, which brings us to present day. I actually traded my old Camaro for the mustang I currently own. Let me start by saying, with this being my first mustang, I completely fell in love with the ride and even more so with the rich history of mustangs. Well here it goes, I traded the camaro for a 1995 mustang v6 3.8 with auto trans. I knew before I traded I did not want the v6 in it, and had much larger plans for my new project. My end goal for this car is to have a beast at the drag strip, and the occasional weekend cruise to the car shows... So begins my journey to make the best mustang I can to suit my personal needs. I’m a perfectionist and when it comes to my vehicles, I only put (what I consider) the best parts available into my builds and restorations. If it’s worth doing at all, then ya might as well do it right. So here’s a list of parts I have acquired in the short time Since starting my project. First I blasted all the rust away, to make her clean as possible. From there I reinforced the body with full length welded in subframe connectors, upper and lower torque box reinforcements welded in, BBK upper and lower control arms, Koni shocks and struts, rear strut tower brace, eibach sportline lowering springs, caster camber plates, 8.8 rear end with 4.10 gearing, slotted drilled rotors, upgraded calipers and pads. All new fuel lines, gas tank, edelbrock 255 lph fuel pump, 40 micron fuel lab fuel filter. I might be forgetting a couple things, but needless to say the entire suspension has been upgraded. Then I went on to acquire a 94 5.0 HO and t5 WC 5 speed. I just recently finished throwing the whole suspension together and now it’s time to move on to the engine and drivetrain. I have acquired a few parts, which I will list, but have not yet begun to work on the engine and trans. The other parts I have include an aluminum driveshaft, smog pump eliminator, and underdrive pulleys, 130 amp alternator. So now I’m at the point where I’m ready to invest in a cold air intake, MAF, TB, intake manifold, fuel rails, injectors, heads, and exhaust. The parts I’m looking at are bbk CAI, undecided on MAF size, either a 70 or 75 mm throttle body, the edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold, edelbrock performer heads 1.90 valve, either bbk or edelbrock high flow fuel rails, and I’m thinking 39lb fuel injectors, and a fuel pressure regulator, most likely going to go with bbk headers, mid pipe, and tail pipes. So basically I’m looking for anyone who has advice on my engine parts list, does it sound like a solid plan? Are there better options out there? If so what? ... and how much horsepower and torque improvement am I looking at? I have a pretty good idea of where I’ll be sitting but Somone who has more experience with mustangs and combining power adders could give me an educated guess... I also plan on adding a comp camshaft, hardened pushrods, and rocker arms eventually.... sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for reading and any advice you have. If people are interested, I will continue to update this as my project progresses, just in case the information posted here could benefit anyone in the future. Also if anyone would one to post about there projects and the outcomes feel free. The more knowledge spread here thE better off we’ll all be. Go hard or go home!
 
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RaggedGT

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First off- Welcome to Stangnet :SN:

Sounds like quite the project,and it sounds like you’re spending money in all the right places. I might of missed it,but why the bigger injectors? A power adder in the plans? (I.e blower/turbo etc?) AFR heads are pretty popular around here,as well as the Anderson power pipe for a cai. I moved your thread into the ‘79-95’ section,feel free to Look around and see what some of the other folks are doing to go fast. Other members will come by and offer you some advice,recommendations and to derail lol.
Looking forward to your progress-hopefully with pics
 
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96pushrod

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If it’s a 94/95 5.0 then new fuel rails are pointless unless you plan to be pushing 600+ rwhp so save your money there.

Do you have a computer with the engine?

Also, 39lb injectors are real big for the heads you’re going for. They can be tuned around, they’re just bigger than most would go.

I’ve got a bbk maf and cai currently along with throttle body, all are good pieces. I have a pro-m waiting to go in with the new engine, it seems like a real nice one - and from what I hear they’re great.

I urge you to reconsider your head choice. With with some afr or 11r heads, even victor. You can always “grow” into a bigger head. I’d hate to see you spend money on a good setup just to blow it on a mediocre head.

I would also count on having the car dyno tuned. I’ve had good luck with mods on my 5.0 but they’re known to be a little pain in the ass.

Overall though, it’s gonna be a badass car ;)
 
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Stangzpride

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Jul 27, 2018
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Thanks for the responses guys, I will post pics of it’s where it’s at now and keep updating as my project progresses. Thanks for the advice, I’ll definetly check out the arp and 11r heads. Eventually I plan on installing a boost setup, so that’s my reasoning behind upgrading the fuel system. I figured going with the upgraded fuel pump, filter, fuel lines, rails, and bigger injectors now is just going to prepare me for the boost setup later on. With a fuel pressure regulator I can adjust the fuel pressure so it won’t hurt anything to have the bigger injectors until I get to the boost phase of the build right? Or will that create some type of drive ability issue? I also plan on getting a 6 quart oil pan and oil pressure regulator as well as other parts i didn’t mention in the original post like stage 2 or 3 clutch setup, hurst short throw shifter, and other upgrades as I see fit. Sorry I should have been more clear of my end goal for a boosted setup.

When you say computer your referring to the ECU right? If so no, the car still has a v6 computer in it, and none of local auto part stores have them so I’m keeping my eye out for that. As for the dyno tune, that’s an absolute must. I was also thinking about a bama tuner, I heard good things about them. As for the pro-m, i think your going to like it, my buddy installed one and loves it. What size mam and TB are you running?
 

96pushrod

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I’m telling you the fuel rails will support more hp than the block will handle. 600+rwhp. Save your money. A bigger oil pan isn’t a requirement either - one benefit is you can get one with a windage tray, or a deeper pan to help keep the crank away from the oil.

Yeah It’s possible to tune around big injectors, A good tuner can do that. I’ve actually had decent luck with a bama tune when I went with a bigger maf, throttle body, heads and injectors. My car didn’t like idling but the chip smoothed it out. Some people don’t have the luck I had. If you’re throwing big money at a motor though, I’d skip the bama tune and get a dyno tune done.

I run a 94 computer in my 96, you can find the wiring harness you need in a donor car. I’m running an sct maf with 70mm tb now. Gonna be stepping up to a 80mm maf with 75mm tb in a couple weeks.
 

Stangzpride

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Ok, I’m hearing ya on the fuel rails but I heard you don’t wanna push the stock fuel rails much past 400hp.... I understand that they can handle up to 600hp but that’s the max.. and really pushing it. in my experience (learned the hard way) it’s best not to push parts to their limit. I’m tired of the domino effect. But you’ve definetly given me something to think about forsure, and I thank you. But to be completely straight forward, the cost of parts is not a worry. This not a budget build, this is a to the walls build I’m going for. I’ve already upgraded the entire fuel system so why stop now at the rails?I’m going for big power so it can’t hurt. And the reason for wanting the moroso 6 quart rear sump oil pan is to have more oil flowing through the internals and better for protecting the camshaft etc... I heard they were good for some added peace of mind for the internals. I also want to be able to adjust all my compression ratios.

My thought process- Like with a stock setup, when the engines running at max capacity, the stock fuel injectors only flow 80% of what there rated....when you add light mods, introducing more air to the system then there capable of possibly running the other 20.... which is fine for lightly modded applications. But once you get into heavy modding and then adding big amounts of air on top of it via boost, nos, etc the stock fuel injectors will not flow enough causing the vehicle to run lean. At which point bigger injectors are required to flow enough fuel to the system... which also has some presequites... like high flow fuel pump, filter, bigger lines, rails, and injectors and because I know I will be WELL over 400rwhp I’m just not comfortable comprising the integrity of my fuel system for the applications I’m going to use this vehicle for. I get what your saying forsure, and yes the stock rails would most likely be fine But I’d rather have peace of mind knowing I’m not pushing my parts to the limit and that my setup is made for what I want. That’s why I also want the a/f gauge so I can keep an on my on pressure settings and know everything’s running good, if it’s not that’s where the pressure adjusters come in to play. That’s just what I’ve found in my research.
 

90sickfox

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There's one thing you will be pushing to the limit.... the stock block.

I've got a turbocharged 331 with a stock high nickel block. It's studded and girdles but its still in the risk area of blowing at 7psi. The stock blocks are reported to be good until 500hp. Its debatable but I'd rather not find out the hard way. Wish I would've built a Dart block or a 351.
 

Stangzpride

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Jul 27, 2018
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Thanks for the input lol and yes I’m painfully aware of the weak points in the 302 blocks, I’m also aware of ways to reinforce them...there’s other factors that play into account as well... But hey if anyone’s got tips on block reinforcement throw em at me, you might know something I don’t and I’m hear to learn.... ANYWAYS, as an Irish man I’m only good at two things... betting and winning! cheers boys! Enjoy your night, ill check back on ya tomorrow.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Thanks for the input lol and yes I’m painfully aware of the weak points in the 302 blocks, I’m also aware of ways to reinforce them...there’s other factors that play into account as well... But hey if anyone’s got tips on block reinforcement throw em at me, you might know something I don’t and I’m hear to learn.... ANYWAYS, as an Irish man I’m only good at two things... betting and winning! cheers boys! Enjoy your night, ill check back on ya tomorrow.

Reinforcements via head studs, main studs and a main girdle will not strengthen the block.
The main webbing that holds the crank is the weak point in these engines. You can put studs in the bottom, and tie it all together with a girdle, but it's still only as strong as the webbing that supports it.

You have stated that this is not a "low budget" engine build. You're doing your homework, and heeding the advice you solicit, and that's a good thing. Nobody here with a forced induction build is gonna tell you that a stock block will be fine. They'll all tell you that a stock block build will be fine "up to".

Regardless of what you do to try and find a "high nickel" or Mexican block, the foundation is shaky ground. Sure there are guys tip-toeing around with a boosted stock block that they have set a " don't go there " rule to limit any boost pressure past ( what? Stock block guys.....7-8 psi,?) to ensure that the engine will live to fight another day. But,...rattle that engine under boost a couple of times and you'll have a bunch of main caps bolted to a stud girdle That is no longer part of the block.
Sure as sht.

Do yourself a favor....if you have the money replace the block with one of your aftermarket choices.
 
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Stangzpride

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Reinforcements via head studs, main studs and a main girdle will not strengthen the block.
The main webbing that holds the crank is the weak point in these engines. You can put studs in the bottom, and tie it all together with a girdle, but it's still only as strong as the webbing that supports it.

You have stated that this is not a "low budget" engine build. You're doing your homework, and heeding the advice you solicit, and that's a good thing. Nobody here with a forced induction build is gonna tell you that a stock block will be fine. They'll all tell you that a stock block build will be fine "up to".

Regardless of what you do to try and find a "high nickel" or Mexican block, the foundation is shaky ground. Sure there are guys tip-toeing around with a boosted stock block that they have set a " don't go there " rule to limit any boost pressure past ( what? Stock block guys.....7-8 psi,?) to ensure that the engine will live to fight another day. But,...rattle that engine under boost a couple of times and you'll have a bunch of main caps bolted to a stud girdle That is no longer part of the block.
Sure as sht.

Do yourself a favor....if you have the money replace the block with one of your aftermarket choices.

Great advice my friend, as the block was always a worry in the back of my mind.... so ya I’m not afraid of buying a better block, I checked them out. Saw a few i liked but the one that caught my eye was the dart 10024364... it’s in stock, days it’s reinforced, and it’s for racing applications, and I could order it as a 302 or 351 and has the possibility of stroking her out to a 446?? Not that a striker kit is in the plans or anything, but still. The thing I’m sketched about and why I’m wondering. this dart block is only 300$ ...... seems fishy to me, the other blocks I liked were 1200-2000$ range... but if this dart block is good then why waste an extra 1k or more? So what’s the word is this a good block for what I’m planning or should I spring for something nicer?
 

Stangzpride

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Sorry for my ignorance, but what do mean by tall tinted? ... don’t worry, I will post pictures as I go. I just have not gotten around to it. It’s less about pictures of cars lol and more about the knowledge that can be gained from this thread. not Just for me, but for anyone else, that could benefit from all your guys information.


FYI, saint car Michael, I took your advice and got a nice dart block ordered, should be here in a few days. Thanks for putting me on to that... much respect!

I’ll prolly end up upgrading the stock 302, but end up doing a different kind of build on it.. obviously that be after I finish the dart engine, so it’s a win win in my book
 
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96pushrod

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Sorry for my ignorance, but what do mean by tall tinted? ... don’t worry, I will post pictures as I go. I just have not gotten around to it. It’s less about pictures of cars lol and more about the knowledge that can be gained from this thread. not Just for me, but for anyone else, that could benefit from all your guys information.


FYI, saint car Michael, I took your advice and got a nice dart block ordered, should be here in a few days. Thanks for putting me on to that... much respect!

I’ll prolly end up upgrading the stock 302, but end up doing a different kind of build on it.. obviously that be after I finish the dart engine, so it’s a win win in my book

Wait you didn’t buy the $300 right? There’s no way you can get one for $300
 
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Stangzpride

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Wait you didn’t buy the $300 right? There’s no way you can get one for $300
No lol I was confused at first. That was the price of their cylinder head... but in the description it was labeled as dart 302 iron eagle short block... the part description described the block and not the cylinder head as well lol I almost did order that thinking I found the deal of a life time haha... but further research I found the actual iron eagle block and ordered that... couldn’t imagine if I ordered that thinking it was a block and open my package to see one cylinder head but no i ordered the block, thankfully lol
 

96pushrod

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No lol I was confused at first. That was the price of their cylinder head... but in the description it was labeled as dart 302 iron eagle short block... the part description described the block and not the cylinder head as well lol I almost did order that thinking I found the deal of a life time haha... but further research I found the actual iron eagle block and ordered that... couldn’t imagine if I ordered that thinking it was a block and open my package to see one cylinder head but no i ordered the block, thankfully lol

I would’ve gone with an shp or sportsman. You’ve gotte run a remote filter setup and oil lines on the iron eagle.

I looked into iron eagle but landed on an shp block when I researched it more. It’s easier imo.

Edit: never mind, I guess only the iron eagle pro has a remote filter
 
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Stangzpride

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Ya, I did my research on it and liked what I read about it. Especially reading about other people’s experiences with there dart builds, I’m confident that I’m gonna be a happy mofo with this block. Some guys were putting ridiculous amounts of power to the wheels with these blocks and were never having any issues. Plus with the horsepower rating on those bad boys, I know I’m gonna have complete peace of mind (and a blast lol) when tearing up the asphalt. I’ve been getting a lot of good information and advice here, and I appreciate everyone welcoming me into the community. Cheers to you all! keep the advice coming and I’ll keep my project updated on here, problematic or successful. I can tell with the way this thread is going, were gonna help a lot of people just passing through posts and that’s what it’s all about. Knowledge....Well... that and getting our machines to be some of the meanest around lol
 
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Stangzpride

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Well, I said I’d update this even with the good, bad, or the ugly and well here I am lol so since ordering my block yesterday, I received an email from the shipper stating that my 2-3 day delivery date window has now been changed to 3 or 4 weeks and possibly more. Lol my gut told me something was fishy about it, so I told them thanks but no thanks basically, I’ll take the money back and try my luck somewhere else. So now I’m stuck in vehicular purgatory, until they decide to release the funds back to my account.... Lesson learned, and hopefully others will learn from my mistake, make sure you shop with a well reputable company or one you’ve grown to trust and already established a rapport with. This is how it goes sometimes, there’s ups and downs, the only up we can control are our heads and spirits! Hope everyone’s doing well today!