My build log: 66 coupe, will be 4.6L DOHC

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by wicked93gs, Mar 8, 2009.

  1. Hi ,the irs is nice,but mostly just candy.My next build will be a 4 link with coil overs,tough,cheap and easy
  2. alright, for those of you that missed my posts that took forever to load...more pictures...

    as you can see, my 01 Cobra manifolds fit perfectly fine....installing the gaskets was a PITA though...since 2 bolts on each side were directly above the mounts and below the manifolds...took about 45 minutes a side just to install the gaskets

    another overall shot of the car...havent been working on it as much lately since I had to move it to a storage unit...a glorified car port

    random shot of the finalized shifter location...I think the 35th anniversary shift knob is a nice touch

    also took out my mark viii gas pedal and installed this today...its from a 70 coupe I found in the junkyard...poor car...I figured part of it would live on

    shot of the clutch fork area....I have to find some way to mount a slave cylinder here somewhere...I figure a hydraulic clutch will be cheaper than a cable clutch...and from my experience with building my brake system I figure I can handle the challenge

    note the cables in this picture...there is the throttle cable...but the other to cables are from the IMRC control box which I mounted on the back of the driver's side head...I couldnt find a Cobra or 97-98 Mark box(earlier marks used vacuum actuators....but since I am using a 98 requires electro-mechanical actuators) I used a box from a FWD continental seems to work fine(I hope) it connects perfectly anyway

    the finally installed(temporarily) intake manifold, I cleaned up the plastic(phenolic) IMRC plates that came with the 98 manifold and installed new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets

    yesterday I went to the mustang and ford show here in ashville and found my local speed shop was selling a cut to length driveshaft for $60...mild steel, but I think its a good option since this rear end is temporary anyway

    I now have working brakes...working throttle....just a few mechanical things left to go and I can move on to fuel and cooling....the steering linkage(speaking of which, I finally picked up a steering column support, got it from a 68 galaxy in the will take minor modification but should work fine) I still need clutch actuation...and the driveshaft....then the engine will be connected to the wheels and I'll be able to stop and steer...the basics
  3. some more progress today(no pictures yet though)..
    I picked up a mark VIII radiator and after trimming away some plastic it fits right down between the frame rails...still need to pick up the matching an and open up the radiator support to flow more air to the core(and I decided I wanted to set the radiator back under the radiator support to keep maximum room in the engine bay

    I also ran my new EZ-wiring kit and tore out all that remained of the stock stuff(a whole tailight harness)...I cant actually wire anything up until I get my ECU and EDIS-8 unit but most of the wiring is where it needs to be

    I also measured for my driveshaft ends up being 52 7/8" from pinion flange to transmission output...I did this because yesterday I picked up a cut-to-length driveshaft...and today I found an aluminum driveshaft from an aerostar...tomorrow I'll drop off the aluminum unit to get it shortened and balanced(I'll end up taking theother one back)
  4. alright, I get a chance to show some more pictures, and to update my progress a bit...enjoy!(or not)

    first up we have the mark VIII radiator...I cut the support out to allow air to flow over the entire core...I figured I may as well use the entire mark cooling system just as it came from ford....except for the coolant overflow tank...I think I will modify the mark power steering resevoir tank instead and use that in its place since it will look cleaner(and I dont have power steering)

    here we have new wiring...I used an EZ wiring kit that I got off was listed for a 67 bronco, but I figured that was close enough...I wanted plenty of wire to work with...I am trying to get away with just the engine harness in the engine bay coming through the firewall, everything else will be routed around the frame somewhere

    and here we have my modified stock column mounted and connected to the rack via my beautiful homemade steering linkage I made from ebay cost of about $110...much better than the $250 Heidts or R&C wants...for an uglier kit to boot...for the shaft itself I cut up a steering shaft from a 67 F100 I found in the junkyard...I figured I would give at least part of it new life

    my oil filter relocation kit...still no idea where I am going to put it...I'm going to have to change the lines though...these end up kinking because the frame rail is so close...I'm thinking some flare fittings and hydraulic hoses...cheaper than the SS line route and just as effective...I say that now but most likely I will end up just going SS like I usually do...I had to go SS in my turbo neon with the oil filter relocation kit because these lines leaked...the lines will cost twice as much as the kit, how sad


    and last but not least my aluminum shortened aerostar driveshaft...4" in cost $107($15 for the shaft in the junkyard...92 to get it shortened)
  5. This build should be a stickey...

    .....really, I mean it.
  6. I know it's too late for you now; but, I'm just getting the "sandwich adaptor" and filter mount from $ummit; along with some AN fitting and hose for my truck's 5.4.

    Also, no offense, but after looking at the pictures of this part of the build; all I can say is "YOU SUCK! I HATE YOU!" for having all that room to run the relocation kit! :rolleyes:

    Luckily, I can at least SEE my oil filter; but, with the P/S hoses, steering box, tranny cooler lines, front differential carrier and associated bracketry, left half-shaft, and about 155,000 other things in the way; I ended up buying a filter wrench with a 3" hand-grip, and can only move it aprrox. 1/16th of a turn at a time before banging into something else. :notnice:

    If I can ever get a day to myself, and can get the sandwich adaptor to clock right when tightened down (so the hose fittings aren't pointing at the exhaust manifold); the filter's going in front of the core support and below the bumper, more-or-less behind the left tow hook.

    Times like this; I miss my old F100; with enough room underhood to get at all the stuff hanging off the sides of the FE.
  7. 12-3-08004-3.jpg

    I do have a question that concerns me here....if you notice where this U-joint connects to the column shaft, instead of welding the connection(no room and it needs to come apart) and because this isnt a double D shaf, I drilled a hole through the entire joint and shaft and use a nut and a bolt to secure it...a 6mm bolt to be exact...I would like an opinion on whether this bolt will be large enough diameter to prevent shearing as I am driving down the road...right now its a grade 8 bolt...but it is an area of concern to me...I'll probably drill it bigger o be on the safe side once everything is apart again for paint

    other than that the steering is crisp and responsive...the last thing left to do as far as moving parts go is a cable clutch conversion(and cut my coils down...but I cant do that till I get fenders)
  8. i know its a bit late for this info, but if you are still looking at putting a marauder intake on your motor it will not work. the intake ports on the heads are different as your motor and 96-98 cobra motors have "B" heads and all 4v motors 99+ (cobra, marauder, avaitor, mach 1) are "C" heads. yours has a variable length intake runner system where an actuator opens flaps to change the the runners at a certain RPM.
  9. I know that now...I ended up with a 97-98 mark manifold, it will work well enough for me for now anyway, well after I get it cleaned up and powdercoated
  10. well, today I went ahead and installed a Steeda clutch quadrant/firewall adjuster/adjustable cable kit today...this is the first revision...later ones to follow till I get it exactly the way I want it...a note...this quadrant is a double hook probably would not be able to use the firewall adjuster with a single hook quadrant...triple hook quadrants probably wouldnt work either, there is not enough vertical room to do this as I would like to begin with, regardless of aftermarket fox/SN95 quadrant used...anyway, on to the pictures....

    nothing special here, just a shot from the tranny area....I did realize though that I need to get a cable retaining clip eventually

    the cable is routed behind the motor mount bracket and I ground off the tab on the mounting bracket and mounted it directly to the inner fender(though I dont even know why this bracket is needed)

    it enters the firewall here, a bit off from other conversions I have seen....I drilled a 1 3/8" hole here to fit the firewall adjuster pilot it broke however so I ended up scuffing the metal a bit...oh well, more touch up to do....I do still need to add some type of firewall re-inforcement...possibly some angle iron that can attach to the cowl pinch joint as well as the firewall


    some under the dash pictures of the pedal modification...this is the part I am unhappy with...while it works the pivot action of the quadrant is not ideal since the pivot point is below the stock pivot it causes the issue of travelling in an arc while pivoting...reducing the amount of travel in the pedal...or effective travel....however there is currently not enough room to mount the pivot correctly....I have been consiering cutting the cowl area(since it will be blocked off anyway) and raising the quadrant

    I do have a question however....I have about 3/4"-1" of movement at the clutch fork when the pedal is depressed, I am pretty sure this is enough to engage the clutch, but thought I would ask...I know in my eclipse 1/2" is enough on a slightly shorter any help there would be appreciated

    p.s. while I was welding the bolts on the clutch arm, I had forgotten I needed to disassemble I melted the bushing...heh, oh well, was going to upgrade to a roller setup anyway...te whole assembly needs to come aprt again anyway for paint
  11. Wow!!!!!!!!!! Nice work.I am the guy in the teal mustang that bought the t5.The net makes it a small world.:D
    You have come a long way.:nice: Nice work.
  12. A week with no update? What-up bro? Some of us are living vicariously through you!
  13. heh, dont worry, I'll install a mark viii fan will take a whole five minutes to do too(I've been sick this week so my parts aquisition isnt up to par) but at least it will fill up the engine bay some more

    hey silvertooth, hows it going? hows the t5 working for you? this thing is creeping along it feels like to me, after I re-do my quadrant setup though, thats it for moving parts and I can focus on fuel and cooling system and wiring...then the thing will at least start and move under its own power
  14. alright, just finished installing my mark viii an...since I'm using a mark viii radiator...there were zero was dissapointing to me...just two bolt, no cutting, no welding, no shroud trimming...ah well, I did find something I could modify anyway though....I'll get to that when I post that picture...

    for those of you who haven't seen a mark viii fan...they are pretty big...presumably they are one of the highest flowing stock fans(if not the highest)

    I still have plenty of room in the engine bay...I was kinda hoping it would fill it in more...I could fit my turbos up here if I didn't want them to be remote mount for better weight distribution


    and here I found something I can modify to work better...notice the slight gap between the shroud and the radiator? the factory didn't do a very good fitment job...I'll be filling this gap with some of that foam stripping that is sticky on one side(like what comes with a cooktop to install between the glass top and the countertop) might as well get the best cooling I can out of the setup

  15. The t5 is perfect.I think I told you at the time.That I had just pulled the engine and installed a timing chain,seals,etc and was going to install the t5 and be done with the mustang, now has,GT40P heads,trick flow stage one cam,A9L, and 3.73,s and crane ignition.I just can,t leave anything alone.
    You really are making good progress.I,m glad I found this thread.Keep us posted.It,s looking great.
  16. I'll keep up the work through the winter...the remainder of the cooling system, fuel system, wiring, etc....then I will buy my sheet metal and tear it down to the frame for a full rotisserie media blasting,POR-15 coating and paint prep...when its warm enough again for paint stuff in the spring...then it will just be interior, wheels, and little finishing stuff(maybe an engine build, yes I consider engine building little stuff) oh...and actual paint, regardless as far as I am concened, the worst is now over, its all downhill from here
  17. well, its been awhile since I have done anything...not like I accomplished much today...after working on the car about 1/2 hour my hands went numb so I gave up..anyway, some pictures...

    quick picture of my modified fuel sending unit...plumbed in a return line...I tried to do an dual pump setup using an in-tank pump setup using a walbro GSS341 and a SN95 hanger assembly(external pump is another high pressure walbro 255), but ended up giving up...its possible, but more work intensive than I wanted to deal with just for now at least it will be running on just an inline walbro 255

    a shot of the return line I started making...the color is a hideous green that would need to be painted black, but I started the bends at least

    this is the feed line...I have this one running on the outside of the frame rail...not sure which I prefer yet, inside or outside....outside sure does make it easier to deal with the transmission x-member if I ever have to remove it...but outside exposes it to more road debris...though I'm not too concerned about debris in all honesty...we shall see
  18. I'm really surprised by the amount of free space you have there
  19. well, I did tuck the radiator up under the support and shoved the engine back as far as I the extent of re-doing the motor mounts because the engine ended up 1/2" further forward than I wanted...however there is enough room up there for some moderately sized I guess it was worth the headache