Build Thread My C I P (continuous Improvement Program) Thread

I believe when it comes time I will be making the trip and using Monks as well. We are supposed to be taking a corn fed turbo termi up to him in the next month or two (if the fab welder ever gets the charge pipe done). I'm excited to see that car lay down close to 1k hp. :)
 
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He runs a good shop, and has some good knowledge. Only complaint i have is the part throttle response when cruising isnt as strong as before, but it was also a lot leaner there before.
 
welp, i think motor is dead.

was at the track last night, missed 3rd. over-revved (i have no idea where bob put the limiter, i completely forgot to ask and assumed he set it somewhere reasonable). on the return road, started hearing a nice clack. got to the pits, investigated, found the #5 exhaust rocker was waaaaay loose. relashed, still clacked. did it again, and it was quieter, but still present. figure that lifter just collapsed and limped it home, with a couple instances of the noise getting louder for a few seconds, then quieter again.

got home today, pulled the upper and the drivers side valve cover, and the rocker was loose again. re-lashed, turned the motor so that that valve was open, let it sit that way for about 30-45 minutes, came back, and it was nice and tight like it should be. hmmmmm.

pulled the lower just now, and the #1 and #5 dogbones where sitting in the back of the valley. the #5 exhaust roller is slightly chewed on the edges, and the intake roller has a flat spot down to the fingers of the lifter body. peering down the lifter bore i can see the cam lobe is nice and chewed up too.

moral of the story: next time, bring a rev-limiter and a trailer.
 
Sounds like just the cam and a couple lifters and guides. I had it happen to me before...over revved and the lifter broke the dog bone, lifters turned sideways and turned into non rollers. Drove the car about 50 miles...replaced cam, two lifters, and dog bone good as new. You're OK as long as the lifter bores are OK.
 
I have new lifters on order (was chancing it would be a quick fix before i pulled the intake, another efi race Saturday ).

Going forward, dunno. Ill have to drain the oil and see how much metal is in it, if i like what i see i may throw a new cam in it. Thinking of calling woody up and seeing what some short block options are. Was hoping to save up for a 13:1, high-port headed 427 in a couple years, but may just settle for a stock-block 347 or dart 363 i can swap the current stuff onto, then eventually throw on some 205 (or hopefully bigger by then) 11r's or a vortech.

Ultimate goal is to run up to the 10.0 limit of needing a 10-point (street car).
 
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I have new lifters on order (was chancing it would be a quick fix before i pulled the intake, another efi race Saturday ).

Going forward, dunno. Ill have to drain the oil and see how much metal is in it, if i like what i see i may throw a new cam in it. Thinking of calling woody up and seeing what some short block options are. Was hoping to save up for a 13:1, high-port headed 427 in a couple years, but may just settle for a stock-block 347 or dart 363 i can swap the current stuff onto, then eventually throw on some 205 (or hopefully bigger by then) 11r's or a vortech.

Ultimate goal is to run up to the 10.0 limit of needing a 10-point (street car).

Jim's great but he doesnt start working on your motor until he has the cash and normally takes a few months to get it done.
 
I still gotta figure out what direction i want to take. Funds are a bit tighter than I had anticipated too, hopefully work will pick up sooner than later so I can pick up some ot.
 
finally tore this thing apart enough for some carnage pics
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the other 12 lifters and lobes were perfect, the dogbones just went flying on the front two cylinders (guess the spider is weaker there for some reason?)

the flat lifter was the #5 intake

dunno how much i can trust that none of that missing metal when in the oil system, or how much got trapped in the filter. kinda dont wanna put any more $$$ into this motor either.

going to wait a couple weeks and see how the funding issue looks before proceeding too much further.
 
Ditto ouch. Don't blame you. I'm already regretting messing around with another stock block. Should have just waited another year and done a Dart. Oh well...good luck whichever way you decide.
 
You're not ok. When a cam fails at the track, and you stop everything spinning when you hear the noise, doing your best to limit the carnage immediately afterwards, you may be ok to run the engine again when you replace the broke junk.

However.


When you hear the noise, relash the rocker, drive the car, hear the noise, relash the rocker again, and then run the engine some more is equivalent to running liquid metal through the oiling system. Equivalent to I'd say........fill the bottom of a teaspoon w/ grinding dust, and then pour that into your engine at your next oil change.

For all those that had a cam/ lifter fail, and they replaced the broke junk and it " ran just fine" afterwards didn't look at the engine bearings in the months after the incident. Of the two flat tappet cam failures I incurred, one was allowed to go to the new owner after replacing the broke junk, and on the other, I pulled the engine immediately after the failure.

What I found after driving the second car 30 minutes after a loose rocker, was a badly scored oil pump, and metal embedded main, and rod bearings.

It alway kills me when somebody advises another that you'll be fine to drive an engine after a cam failure.

" Meh, you'll be fine, through some metal dust into the engine, I do it, and I've never had a problem."
 
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i completely agree with you both. i'd be pretty confident that it hasnt killed a bearing yet, but i'd feel a hell of a lot safer pulling all the caps, taking the rotating assembly out, and washing the thing out, then throw new bearings at it. but i just dont think i want to spend that much money on an explorer 302 with probably close to 130k on it now, and it not be any faster or more reliable than what it was.

right now, depending on funds, i'm looking at doing a dart-blocked 363 with dual valve reliefs (wedge and hi-port) that i can throw my current top end on with a used xe282, and in a couple years throw some hi-port 225s at it with a custom cam (and the necessary headers and k-member). i think that will give me enough power to meet my goals and maybe a bit more.
 
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i completely agree with you both. i'd be pretty confident that it hasnt killed a bearing yet, but i'd feel a hell of a lot safer pulling all the caps, taking the rotating assembly out, and washing the thing out, then throw new bearings at it. but i just dont think i want to spend that much money on an explorer 302 with probably close to 130k on it now, and it not be any faster or more reliable than what it was.

right now, depending on funds, i'm looking at doing a dart-blocked 363 with dual valve reliefs (wedge and hi-port) that i can throw my current top end on with a used xe282, and in a couple years throw some hi-port 225s at it with a custom cam (and the necessary headers and k-member). i think that will give me enough power to meet my goals and maybe a bit more.
Ultimate goal? That purposed motor(363-hi ports-custom cam) could get you high 9's to low 10's with the right setup. :nice:
 
the goal is 10 flats, for the simple reason that any faster needs a full 10-point to be legal which is more pita than it's worth for me. gateway's tech is kinda meh most times (the supercharged coyote earlier in the thread runs 10.60-10.70 and doesnt even have the 5-point he's supposed to have at 11.50), so a little extra probably isnt going to get me kicked out.
 
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