My Car

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 68FBJJZ109, Nov 28, 2006.

  1. Well Although a bit premature, since its still in the truck, Here are some motor pictures. It's raining, and i still need some 7/16 bolts for the engine stand so tonight to motor sleeps in the Expedition.



    The basics pictured:

    Ford Pro MotorSport R block
    Eagle Forged 331 Stroker kit w/ forged Probe Dished Pistons
    Custom Ground Cam from Cam Motion.
    Worked Trick Flow 205's

    Should haul some serious tail at 12psi...
  2. That engine looks like it will be one BMF. I would love to see it one day. When do you think you will have it running?
  3. I am hoping to have it moving on its own power by the end of July. Using a stand alone system, and mechanical guages really cuts down on wiring. I want to have all the proper wholes cut, for the plumbing then lizard skin it, and focus on body work. I think I could have the car completly finished for Carlise next year. Maybe at well get to see each others cars at a one of the bigger events.
  4. I have a question that is about a page late. What kind of paint did you used on the valve covers? It looks like low-gloss black engine enamel. I have some Mickey Thompson VCs that sprayed black wrinkle, but now I'm thinking they would have tuned out better with regular paint.

    What do you have planned for EFI?

  5. Yes, it is Low gloss black engine enamel. Well I have a FAST Speed Pro Engine management system. so that takes care of about all of the EFI woes. It connects in four places and is very simple to wire into the car. A friend of mine knows the files and settings like the back of his hand to get the car running, though its will need Dyno tuning, since the orginal set up has changed.
  6. Well here are some teaser/motivational/infomative pictures on what I need to do to turbo charge my car.


    Here is the Turbo Mounted.





    Well This provides great insight on what I need to change to fit the T 76 into my car. From header to header its about 1 1/2 to wide, though there is room to build a simular header that tucks in closer. The cross over pipe will need to be change to allow room for the Sway bar, and bring the turbo closer into the engine bay. There have been concerns with the down pipe and my TCP Rack's rubber boots after looking at 10secgoal turbo some time ago,though I am pretty cofindent that wont be an issue. After make my car payment (how a 22 year helps to build such a car) I'll order everthing I need to build my own set of turbo headers.
  7. Sweeeeet!
  8. Setting the bar

    Looks great! You are definately setting the bar for others with similar rides. Did I miss how much hp you guys are predicting this sucker to have?
  9. Well no actaully. the plumbing you see came from my friends 5.0 notch which i bought. This setup up on a stock 5.0 with 140k miles on it running at 10lbs of boost made approx. 600 hp. My motor is quite the different story, not only can te internals take much more power, it has a custom ground Turbo cam for that setup. So all the components are working together much more efficently and with the stock kit number will go up. The motor its self is set up for 10-13 lbs of boost. We quesstimated that it's very possible to see 700 at the wheels. This friday my buddy who i got the kit from is coming up and where gunna see exactly where the hot and cold side of the plumbing are going run, and further talk about the actual potential for the motor.

    Thanks for the complement, It defiantly takes alot of time and money to build something like this. The car it self kind of a mutt, The first concept was a NA SBF road course/street car. Which is still verymuch ture, though I just say its a road car that can come very very fast out of the turns, the slow down again with the large brakes for another turn.
  10. Picture061.jpg

    Put the motor in, so I can truely base what i need to do fabricating wise for the turbo. Inaddition I have been concerned the Intake wouldn't clear the hood, and how the cold side plumbing would have to be run to still allow the use of the TCP Tower brace.


    View attachment 380889

    Although it looks a bit n the high side it does fit under the hoog which is a relief.



    Little surprised to see how little the front has settled, granted its not a complete motor and I don't have the bellhousing or tranny, turbo, plumbing, or anything else needed for the car to run which will contribute to it settling. I just figure with the Shelby drop, and the drop spring I would have seen a greater differance in the hieght.
  11. I see you cut "cowl cooling slots" in the cowl cover. This to cool the engine bay?

    Although you have the 1" drop springs, the springs are so stiff it would take or need more weight to drop it more and I don't think the additional items youl listed would help that much more.
  12. I would not start cutting yet. Wait till you roll the car a little and add the extra weight. My car settled quite a bit!
  13. Yeah thats what i presumed, though that is a decent amount of wieght, and didn't see any real change.

    Yes, reported from Unique there was a noticable differance in how much cooler then engine ran.
  14. It would def be premature to cut coil, I have seen what happens when such a thing is done, and just leads to alot of extra work and wasted money. both of which i cannot afford to loose.
  15. It been a long time since I have posted here, and even longer since I have worked on my Shelby Clone. Unfortunately it will still be another 7 months till i'll be back in the states to work on the car.

    My notchback has been turbo charged and running for about two months before i left the states on my all expenses paid trip to the middle east :) I have learned alot from the Notch and have been impressed with its gas mileage (though it olny weighs 2900 lbs) and driveablity, though with the flick of the accelerator it goes from mild to wild.

    Though as for the Shelby I am thinking about changing Power plants and front suspensions. Going from a R Block 331 stroker to a Teskid 5.0 DOHC mod motor.

    Suspension wise possibly a McPherson Strut style because most kits for a modular motor are a fox style K member ect. Though i would prefer to get rid of the stock towers completely so i have more room for Turbo plumbing. I would like to avoid a Mustang II setup because of some of the negatives that setup has performance wise, though i need to research that option more. Unfortunately the Griggs setup i would have to sell body parts for, though maybe piecing it together with other parts may work.

    I am just curious on what your guys thoughts were on the matter?
  16. That is going to be BAD ASS!!!!!!!!!

    I love all fastbacks, but 67 and 68 are my favorite fastback!
  17. Thanks, it should haul ass and look sharp doing it.

    I have been researching the mustang II set up in my free time and its surprisingly doesn't seem to be as bad as I have heard. I have always heard that for performance applications some have failed because of the stress in places in the frame rails, and that the suspension was originally designed to use a strut. And further more the handling was marginally improved if that over the stock setup. I do not know how true this is, though I am curious if i could use a Mustang II set up with the Griggs SLA towers.

    I need to further research the MII setup and see how it fares in the handling department and how much abuse it can take. I plan on putting this car through its paces, and I dont need suspension components. Although I am trying to save money I would rather invest it and have a more capable vehicle and wait longer to beable to afford to finish it then cheap out and regret it or worse have something fail.
  18. Picture060.jpg

    Little surprised to see how little the front has settled, granted its not a complete motor and I don't have the bellhousing or tranny, turbo, plumbing, or anything else needed for the car to run which will contribute to it settling. I just figure with the Shelby drop, and the drop spring I would have seen a greater differance in the hieght.[/QUOTE]

    I thought the same thing, but over time it has settled perfectly. The fender lip is just slightly over the top of the wheel. It only took one test drive and it sat right down nicely.
  19. Although the car has been sitting for almost a year now and hasn't settled any, that is not the main reason for want to change so much on the the car. I would like the car to handle as well as possible with off the shelf components so to speak while being strong. I plan on driving the car very hard as I do my turboed Notch back (boy is it fun) I would also like to remove the shock towers to allow ample room for the Turbo Kit and although I was originally considering a built DOHC 5.0. I think keep the 331 I have and swap all the front end components minus the brakes to a Griggs set up (funds permitting) and sell the current setup.