My headers wont fit

If I didn't throw my C4 block plate away last time I was at storage I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping. I'm going to my storage unit wensday, I'm trying to get it cleared out.

If your headers are touching I think you should try to have them heated and "tweaked" to get the extra clearance you need, shouldn't hurt the performance of the header any. Then heat wrap them anyways.
 
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Hey Rusty

Is the block plate you have for the small bellhousing? I`m interested for sure.

I have looked on several websites, and the only plates I can find at all are for the dual bolt pattern with the larger bottom on it. And they are wanting $80 and up for those.
 
Mustangs Unlimited and others sell new block plates. Just make sure you order the correct one. There are different ones for 157, 164 and then automatic or manual trans. The Auto trans unit has a removable section at the bottom to access the converter nuts. The plate also functions to index the starter to the flywheel or flexplate.
 
Rusty

Me and a buddy were checking out this plate I have the other day, he has access to a plasma cutter, and it looks like we could trim this thing rather easily.

Let me know if you cant find it, we might try this trimming thing if you cant.
 
The trimming thing didnt work out.

We would have had to cut the entire starter ring off, that could have been a problem. Anyone know where I can get the small block plate aftermarket? I`ve tried, Summit, Jegs, CJ Pony Parts, and Mustangs Unlimited so far, nothing yet. All I can find are the dual bolt pattern block plates.
 
:D I'll try and remember. Meanwhile, I've pulled my C-4, had it gone thru and reinstalled it back in the Comet.............What you waiting for ?:D :D Ain't gonna rub it in, with what it cost me..........................:D You'd kill me, or poison my food..........:rlaugh:
 
Well I`m trying to be patient.....

I got a Granada disc conversion I`m wanting on it before the engine goes in, to make the brake line plumbing easier. I also placed a big order with Opentracker yesterday for the rest of my suspension parts, which I need before I can do the disc conversion. (need upper and lower control arms first).

And you know most of the rest of the story, the 2 months tranny thing....LOL

To be honest, its so freaking hot right now I cant do anything outside for more then 15 minutes after about 11am. It was 108 degrees yesterday.

The tranny was $650 with a 36k warrenty, I thought I did ok on it.
 
Yea, been in the hundreds down here to for the past week. We're supposed to get wet tomorrow, looked like it a few minutes ago, but I think the T-Storm brewing changed it's mind. I picked up an extra C-4 the other day and brought it to my transmission guy. Gave hime a good AOD for his labor on it and the one in the Comet. Other than that, the Comet C-4 cost me $30 for oil.:D to fix.:nice: The other C-4 came from a 68 fastback Stang, the owner swapped it for a T5. Gonna put it in my Ranger later this year and sell the Ranger. Got to keep the Toploader in it now. That cost me $150 four years ago. Won't get another at that price anytime soon.
 
New Patriot Tri-Y`s, and the passenger side one wont clear the bellhousing, right at the starter ring.

Are their different types of bellhousings? Or do yall think its the header.

If the ring on the bellhousing wasn`t there, this thing would be laying right on the starter.

This is why I gave-up on headers in a 65/66....well...1 of many reasons. Why not try filling them with sand (cap both ends with sheet metal), bolt them up to the engine on a stand, heat the header with a torch and bend it into position...this worked on 351'c' motors going in 65/66 cars we did back in the 70's and we did not have to cut the spring towers.
 
Well it fits now

With the correct bellhousing I have about 1/4 of an inch clearance, I would have liked more, but this works. The sand idea is pretty cool though, never heard of that.

I just hope when it all gets in the engine bay it still fits, if this dont work I`m going old hi-po manifolds.