My NEW progress thread. stangnet style ;)

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by BK_CAULEY, Jan 27, 2008.

  1. :mad:

    now i dont have either
  2. Saw something on Trucks when they painted their S-10. Had a run and they used a razor blade to cut it down cause it made it more uniform since you are not sanding away the good area. They then went back with fine grit (dont know which) for the finishing. It was a good size run too but looke flawless after he did it.
    It was the episode when the painted the truck yellow and the truck is called Hauling S-10, I think that was the episodes name too :shrug:
  3. :whine:
  4. the run is on the body line of the car where i was just to close in one spot.

    the rest of the car had two light coats on it. ive nevr buffed a paint job before and im scared im gonna burn through
  5. BK-- I wouldn't do the razor blade trick if you haven't done it, or watched someone do it before. Also, watch out for paintless dent removal. I got lucky with the referral I got. I had to wait two weeks for him to come out, but it was worth it. He got it all out. He said he can even get dents, or waves around bondo areas out. I don't know how he does it without it cracking. I have seen other paintless dent guys, ruin the job!!! I would rather have a dent in my car, then have the dent gone, but leaving 7-8 prick marks in the paint that he cracked where the dent used to be.

    Just buy some 1000. Put it on a block, wet sand it with soapy water. The soap keeps it lubed. Do a few passes, dry it off, look at it. If you see high spots, just sand those with the 1000 and your fingertip. Then, hit it with the block with 1500 really quicky, then 2000 and rub it.

    You won't burn through the paint if you use a light cutting compound, and a YELLOW Meguiars "Finessing Pad" Do NOT use the maroon "cutting pad", or a wool pad. Just keep compound on the car and keep the wheel moving. Don't hold the wheel in one spot, use a back and forth motion and buff back and forth in about a 1' X 1' spot. You'll be fine bro...if you painted it, you can buff it. Just watch the edges of the quarter panels, and front fenders. Watch the door moldings, and wuarter moldings. Don't even touch those with the wheel, because you will rip right through the paint.
  6. I appreciate the advice man. I just want it done right. and im tired of that stupid dent.

  7. Anytime man. While my black 91 notch is nice, there was a lot of body work that had to be done. My Dad does my body work and I painted it. There are still spots that bug me. We missed a TINY TINY dent in the left fender, and an even smaller dent in the right door. It's funny because the only time I see the one in the right door is when Hack Jobs headlights hit it when I pull in the garage.

    You can't drive yourself crazy about it man. Every car has imperfections. Hell, I found a dust nib and a rock chip in what looked like a 200,000 dollar 60's Mustang at Woodward last year.
  8. SVT just keeps bringing the good advice. I'll try to add some more...

    First, it's funny he mentions the razor blade trick, b/c that's what's I learned with. It helps to slightly bend the blade, so the corners are a little farther from the good paint then they would be if it was flat. Otherwise, the corners can snag on good paint. I think the razor blade trick is worth doing b/c it saves the most flat paint. My routine is the clean up the run with a razor blade, wetsand with 1000, then 2000, then buff.

    As for buffing (since you haven't before): I suggest going back to the body shop that let you use their booth and watching them buff a few cars. Once you see it done a few times, you'll realize it's not hard to do. Everyone has their own techinique, and there's definitely more than one right answer. I buff in three steps. I start with a wool pad and a cutting compound. Then I use Clean Cut with a foam pad (Clean Cut is a chemical cut, as opposed to abrasive cut. I've found it's a good bang for the buck compound). Finally, I finish with Finesse-It III or SMR and a different foam pad. For foam pads, I've always had better luck with a waffle pad, b/c it doesn't bounce or chatter like flat pads do. Never use pressure. The weight of the buffer is enough. Let the compound breakdown while buffing. That's what it is designed to do. As it breaks down, the abrasiveness of the compound lessens, and it can keep removing scratches to a finer and finer resolution, until everything's out. Once it's dry, lightly spray it with water and go over it again. That will pull the finest remains out of the pad and hopefully catch the remaining swirls.

    1200 rpm for wool and 800-1000 rpm for foam is all you need.

    AS SVT said, stay off plastic trim and sharp edges of plastic or metal. These are the most likely spots to burn. Plastic burns b/c it is not a good heat sink, and can't shed the heat as fast as metal. If you have to buff a bumper cover, move about 2x as fast as you do on metal. Keep the pad wet. Edges burn because it's easier to put heat into them. I suggest masking off edges before you even wetsand. Unless there is a really noticeable spot on an edge, I don't wetsand or buff it.

    One last thing - this would all be a lot easier had you painted your car white :)
  9. Yea im going to go back up there next week and practice on a hood i painted.

    i decided last night im going to also paint the mirrors and all the door glass trim flat black like factory.

    my wife going to be picking these up saturady for me. so now i have a reason to make it all match. plus it looks so much better.

    View attachment 313169

  10. Rich brought up a good point on bumpers. I actually don't wetsand bumpers because they are difficult to rub. I have done them before though. I only wetsand and rub the top edges, by the fender and hood. Then I move down and do the entire top edge (under the headlights and grill) I don't rub anything else, and I don't get into the grooves. Rich also brought up a good point about moving very very fast. Don't sit too long on any part of the car, but especially on bumpers. They will burn through in a heartbeat. Keep the edge of the wheel off corners too. Just watch what you are doing and keep the wheel flat.
  11. :eek: :drool: :hail2:
  12. I just couldnt resist. i will get some good pics tommorrow. im gonna finsh assembly and get it cleaned up. under the hood is a mess right now.

  13. looking good BK
  14. thanks :nice:
  15. Damn...that car has come SO far from where it was...absolutely beautiful.

    Now just get some tire wet so your tires can look as good as teh rest of the car :D
  16. real glad to see your thread back my man. cars looking great. what areyou driving to work if the stangs not done? i thought you were dailying it now?

    yeah but im with what everyone says, dont feel bad that there are a few iffy spots, everyone misses spots. i have dings and stuff too still. you did really really really good for 150 dollars and it being your first time. just try wetsanding and stuff, allot of that stuff works. your good at getting stuff done and moving right along, so dont let this stop you. go get her runnin and get them wheels in. it will look wonderful.

    keep it up my friend.
  17. those wheels and tires are not staying on the car. i found a set of black fr's for sale locally for teh cheap so im gonna get them here in a few.
  18. i have a truck now. my dad wanted a new truck but right now he has out some big time constructuon loans so his credit is tied up, so i made him a deal. sell me his old truck for cheap and i will get him a new Z71 cause i have teh good credit.

    anyways here is a picture. BTW i hate focking monthly payments.

    2002 gmc z71

  19. HAHA - I know...just messin with ya. Gotta keep it light ya know!
  20. that notch is looking sweet. you are making waay more progress than I am.