Interior and Upholstery My rebuilt speedo took a sht

You could be right...however...Chinese lube, could be toxic crap. Probably a copy of Corrosion Block, also green, but extremely expensive, which I would not hesitate to use for this application & many others. $20 for a 16oz tub. They now make 3oz tubes.
I use the aerosol spray all the time, $20/can. These are versions of aerospace products, ACF-50
https://www.corrosionblock.com/products/cb-grease.html
CB.jpg


I would spray Corrosion Block on the drum that spins on the head unit of the cluster. This stuff is so good, it resurrected the driver's power window switches which work just like new now. If I only had the liquid aerosol, I would use it on the cable, too. I'm in a high humidity environment & switches are easily corroded. Once sprayed with Corrosion Block, it seems to last forever, I mean like years.

West Marine is a stocking dealer, as well as Amazon, etc.

So your recommending spraying that stuff on the head that spins on the back of the speedometer?
 
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Odometer recal is easy.

See the rod the white idler teeth ride on?
IMG_5114.JPG

Basically tap it loose from one end, spin the odometer wheels to desired miles, and the reset the white wheels and tap the bar back in

IMG_5113.JPG



Look, a 0 mile speedometer. Bet you never saw that before.

IMG_5115.JPG


Honestly, its so easy it's scary.
Thanks bud, I appreciate your help. Thanks for the pics. Looks easy enough.
 
So I guess I’ll try spraying that stuff before I have the speedo rebuilt. So that stuff is that good huh? Do you think it’ll help with the jumping around too?
 
I’ve been working on fixing it, with not much luck. That’s why I asked you guys for help. If my problem is bothering you so much move on to another thread, Karthief.
Dude, I feel your pain, just try'n to keep it light. If you need to replace the speedometer, likely what will have to happen, I got a stash of gauge pods for parts, pm me if needed.
If you can't laugh, you cry or kill things :jester:
Btw, that corrosion block stuff may just work, did a little reading on it
 
Dude, I feel your pain, just try'n to keep it light. If you need to replace the speedometer, likely what will have to happen, I got a stash of gauge pods for parts, pm me if needed.
If you can't laugh, you cry or kill things :jester:
Btw, that corrosion block stuff may just work, did a little reading on it

I gotcha, :nice: Im going to have this gauge repair guy check it out and probably use some of that Corrosion Block on it after I get it back.
 
Hi,
I have several speedos that "tremble" and squeak. Yes, I replaced the cable and the driven gear in the transmission.
I finally took the head out of the assembly and tried to fix it. For mine, the rotating drum interfered with the magnet assembly causing the needle to jump back and forth.
I then starting filing and using emery cloth on the rotating parts in an attempt to expand tolerances so they didn't interfere. I ran it with a drill off the car and it seemed better. After re installation, it ran OK until it got cold and then things got worse. Also, I used a little graphite on the rotating assemblies and cleaned everything.
IMHO the real culprits are the bearings/sleeve journals and other worn out parts that allow the magnet driven assembly to wobble and interfere with the driving drum. (Just take off the head and you'll see what I mean).
Ebay and elsewhere have used speedo heads that are said "not to tremble" but I think the problem is simply that the design has reached its life expectancy. The used heads are not cheap and installation on the cable may cause distortion.
I haven't found any kits or suggestions to repair the sleeves and journals, I am also unsure that I can maintain the watchspring and its calibration if I take it apart. I see that many vendors have conversions to electronic speedos for much $$$$.
Right now I am using a GPS speedo on my smart phone.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
George
89 LX hatchback (RIP rear ended by the usual distracted driver)
91 LX hatchback
 
You might try a fully synthetic "sticky" lubricant on those bearings. Something that is silicon based. If the bearings are sealed you may need to drill a hole with a fine bit.

I'll have to look around and see what speedos I have here.

I know I've tripped over one. I just don't remember what year it was.
 
I've got a couple too. I dropped one of the speedo's off at a shop here in town that rebuilds vintage speedo's, old dash clocks. Like old, old cars. He had a bunch of pic's on the wall of the work he had done on some pretty cool cars. He showed me what the problem was and said he could fix it. He's kinda hard to understand but he was pushing and pulling on the speedo head and said it wasn't supposed to move the way it does. Supposed to be ready in a week or so, so we'll see if that corrects it. Ill let whoever is interested in this issue know what happened.
 
Blakeus,
Yes, thanks for message and please keep us informed. I agree with the speedo guy that the problem is worn out parts that allow lots of slop in the moving parts. Short of a complete rebuild with new journals and calibration, I don't know how he can improve the speedo head.
I await with interest your results. I have been looking at aftermarket speedos from LMR and elsewhere, since I have some big holes in my dash from prior owners temp and oil gauges.
George
91 LX hatchback 5.0 5 speed.
 
So I got my speedo rebuilt a few months ago and on the way home from work today the freaking thing pinned out past the 140 mark. Ill check my brand new cable, maybe lube it again. Maybe call the guy who rebuilt it and see what he says. I found a local speedo shop here in town and had him rebuild it. Im guessing Ill get the "I didn't install it, so no warranty," routine. At least its not screaming like it was, just doesn't move. The shop charged me $175 bucks too. It might have 100miles on it. Damn.
 
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