My Second Fox

FoxyNate

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here is all the rust spots on strut towers, on either side of wheel well
 

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FoxyNate

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Also can anyone tell me if this is an original engine?
It seems like it might be a Ford Explorer transplant...

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Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
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Do you have some rust? Yes. Is it beyond repair? I'm going with Hell no it's not beyond repair. It needs to be fixed but I have seen WAY WORSE get fixed than what I see in these pictures. The best thing you could do right now is clean that up with a wire brush and get some rust inhibitor on it Keep the car as dry as possible (garage, car port or even a very good cover) and I think this car can live a long life if you get after it now.

Chris
 
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FoxyNate

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Do you have some rust? Yes. Is it beyond repair? I'm going with Hell no it's not beyond repair. It needs to be fixed but I have seen WAY WORSE get fixed than what I see in these pictures. The best thing you could do right now is clean that up with a wire brush and get some rust inhibitor on it Keep the car as dry as possible (garage, car port or even a very good cover) and I think this car can live a long life if you get after it now.

Chris
So I'll sand it down, hit it with DOT 15 spray and some epoxy, DIY paint job (shopping for a badass air compressor) and might get some LX accoutrements
That's after replacing radiator and fuel pump.

After that... go fast parts? Might do a tune up, new plugs, wires, PVC valve, I already know timing is right at 10 degrees...

Is replacing 2:75 with 3:55 something that's hard for a newbie? Thinking of folding that in with differential fluid change
 

FoxyNate

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I will have to look at the plugs on my E7 heads. Here is an E7TE head and a Gt40p head ends.
80B6DDC6-FF5A-4532-A322-B56276BA5A0E.png C48B34F7-5D20-478F-8170-A09993642DBF.jpeg
I'll look closer at E7 heads online too.
I am mostly wondering in case I need to double check if the person who theoretically did an engine swap also applied the other necessary parts needed for an explorer 5.0 swap. Obviously a little new at this, just trying to go through and clean up any mistakes the last 2 owners made
 

FoxyNate

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5EBA2CD9-04C0-4835-A74F-537933BB7417.jpeg

for the first time in my life put a car up on jack stands

time to flush brake fluid, change transmission fluid, and change differential fluid

Seems like differential fluid started dripping out of driver rear wheel when I lifted it up. Is that a common thing? Nothing seems loose
 

7991LXnSHO

Now I want a 10 year badge
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You need a new seal, so here is one.
The axle seal is leaking. Check the bearing for play and noise while you have the axle out.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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I don't like your rear jack stand location. I am a HUGE proponent of proper jack stand usage. You can put them under the rear frame rail, the curve of the stand (the part the car actually sits on) will cradle the frame rail. Where you have them now it is too easy for the rear diff to move and then stand to slip.
 
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FoxyNate

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Seattle
I don't like your rear jack stand location. I am a HUGE proponent of proper jack stand usage. You can put them under the rear frame rail, the curve of the stand (the part the car actually sits on) will cradle the frame rail. Where you have them now it is too easy for the rear diff to move and then stand to slip.
Thank you! It’s a pretty important thing.
Mechanic suggested that location.

Front ones are up under control arms (where they meet the frame, near two bolts there) is that ok?
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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I've never had a problem with Jack stands under the rear axle. However, with the rear stands under the frame it will allow the rear to droop a little more giving better access to the diff cover.

Like stated above...the stands are safer under the frame section.
 
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