Need ABS help, not Mustang.

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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#1
2011 F650 with ABS light on. Has some functioning form of ABS as I have tested it in the rain. Biggest problem is skidding down steep inclines, especially in reverse. What I mean by skidding is I am getting some form of wheel lock in the front end causing traction to be lost and sliding. I have a code reader that is limited on what it can read from diesels (not obdii). I have attached pics of the codes I have received. I have also checked the wiring and cleaned all the sensors.

Any ideas before I start throwing money at it?

Joe 20180518_232241.jpg
 

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Noobz347

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#2
Yes. Take it to the dealership and have them pull codes from traction control and ABS.

Most off-the-shelf consumer code readers will not read these systems anyway. The ones that do are often super expensive to completely insane expensive (the ones that the dealership uses).

About the only other thing I might do before going to have those codes pulled is to remove all the wheels one at a time and clean up the wheel sensors. Generally though, would get a readable code if a wheel sensor were bad (not always depending on model and year).
 

Noobz347

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#3
LoL... I just saw your images. You have a bad wheel sensor. Clean it first, brush off any rust, and re-check it. If that doesn't fix it, replace the sensor.
 

RangerJoe

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#4
LoL... I just saw your images. You have a bad wheel sensor. Clean it first, brush off any rust, and re-check it. If that doesn't fix it, replace the sensor.[/QUOTEn

Thanks for the reply noobz. I have already cleaned all four sensors. Being this is my work truck it is hard to take it out of service for any length of time. I actually have been doing my maintenance and repairs in the middle of the night to avoid down time, lol. I did take it by a local desiel mechanic who tried to read it with his new $4500 scanner, bit he didn't know the scanner well enough to even find the codes.

The only thing that is stopping me from replacing a sensor is the two separate codes: 1 says left and 1 says right, I just find it hard to believe that they both went bad at once. I guess I can replace both, just trying to narrow it down.

Thanks again.

Joe
 

Noobz347

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#5
I really couldn't give much better of a guess without having access to the ABS codes. They are not all wired the same so I couldn't even tell you if one side has the ability to draw down the other.

If that truck any kind of trailer sway control then it's even more blurry.
 

RangerJoe

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#6
@Noobz347
Since you did your best to try and help me, I thought I would update this thread. I fixed the problem over a month ago. It was the hydraulic control unit. A contraption with a series of pumps and reservoirs designed to always hold pressurized brake fluid. I installed a remaned unit to the cost of $4k!

Joe
 

Noobz347

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#7
@Noobz347
Since you did your best to try and help me, I thought I would update this thread. I fixed the problem over a month ago. It was the hydraulic control unit. A contraption with a series of pumps and reservoirs designed to always hold pressurized brake fluid. I installed a remaned unit to the cost of $4k!

Joe
$4000 for that manifold with all the lines coming from it???
I might have set it on fire. :fuss:
 

RangerJoe

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#8
$4000 for that manifold with all the lines coming from it???
I might have set it on fire. :fuss:
$3182 for the reman unit, $278 to overnight ot (lost wages to wait the 5 days on it), 10 quarts of brake fluid, a new master cylinder cap ($15) and $400 labor came out to $3993. Admittedly I could not diagnose it on my own and had to turn to professional help. But in the grand scheme of things, that part was only $400.

Joe
 

7991LXnSHO

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#9
Thanks for the lesson on why we need to keep the brake fluid fresh. I do not know what caused your part to fail. But rust from inside lines will surely be messing up ABS systems as they age. Alcohol is harsh enough when pure. With water, it is almost guaranteed to mess up the lines and moving parts.
 

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