Greetings from Utah.
I've been researching and planning a project car for the past few months, and for many reasons, I think I've decided on building a supercharged 99-04 Mustang GT M/T. I'm trying to keep the build under $10k. I know it's tight, but I'm patient and willing to get creative. My goal is a ~400whp street car that will maybe see an occasional day at the track. If I can build something that puts down more power than a brand new mustang GT, I'll feel accomplished.
Up until yesterday, I was planning on building a forged shortblock, but my reasoning was sort of a slippery slope
All my options are assuming I will purchase the following S/C setup (prices include shipping.) I would be willing to pick up a used kit if it saved me some money, but it looks like they are hard to come by and get scooped up pretty fast.
Option 1: Boost a High Mileage Engine - $8,600
I don't love this option, but it's the most simple and least expensive, so it must be considered. I know these engines are supposed to run for a long time, but throwing 8-9 lbs of boost at a engine with 175k miles seems like a quick way to wind up on the side of the road. Any previous experience in the area would be greatly appreciated.
Option 2: Swap a Re-manufactured Engine Into a GT w/ Bent Valve - $9,500
I may have an opportunity to buy a GT with bent valve for $1500-$2000, but I'm concerned the block may be damaged. However, considering that it has a brand new clutch, 78mm TB and catback exhaust, it could be a great deal. A remanufactured engine from accurate engine costs $2,400 shipped (w/ core.) The engine is warrantied to 100k miles, but I'm certain that warranty is void after adding a supercharger. This option seems solid, but if it blows up, I'm SOL.
Option 3: Build a Forged Engine Using GT w/ Bent Valve - $11,800
Similar to option 2, but I pay a shop to build a forged block and recondition the heads. A local shop quoted $4,700 for parts, assembly, balancing and 3-year/100k warranty (still valid with S/C installed). It's a bit more than I want to spend, but it seems to be the safest route. However, for that price, I could go through two re-manufactured engines.
Miscellaneous Questions:
I've been researching and planning a project car for the past few months, and for many reasons, I think I've decided on building a supercharged 99-04 Mustang GT M/T. I'm trying to keep the build under $10k. I know it's tight, but I'm patient and willing to get creative. My goal is a ~400whp street car that will maybe see an occasional day at the track. If I can build something that puts down more power than a brand new mustang GT, I'll feel accomplished.
Up until yesterday, I was planning on building a forged shortblock, but my reasoning was sort of a slippery slope
1. If i'm going to boost, I should start with a fresh engine.
2. If i'm going to start with a fresh engine, I should used forged internals.
3. If I'm going to use forged internals, I might as well add more boost.
4. If I'm going to add more boost, I might as well build a stronger engine.
5. Now I need to upgrade the rest of my powertrain to handle the power.
And thus the process repeated itself until I was looking at a $25k track-only car that was a far cry from my original goal. So now I'm trying to reign in my expectations and get back to basics. 2. If i'm going to start with a fresh engine, I should used forged internals.
3. If I'm going to use forged internals, I might as well add more boost.
4. If I'm going to add more boost, I might as well build a stronger engine.
5. Now I need to upgrade the rest of my powertrain to handle the power.
All my options are assuming I will purchase the following S/C setup (prices include shipping.) I would be willing to pick up a used kit if it saved me some money, but it looks like they are hard to come by and get scooped up pretty fast.
- Complete Vortech V-3 kit w/ fuel components: $4,265
- CX Racing Front-Mount Intercooloer: $525
- Battery relocation kit: $300
- Total: $5,090
Option 1: Boost a High Mileage Engine - $8,600
I don't love this option, but it's the most simple and least expensive, so it must be considered. I know these engines are supposed to run for a long time, but throwing 8-9 lbs of boost at a engine with 175k miles seems like a quick way to wind up on the side of the road. Any previous experience in the area would be greatly appreciated.
Option 2: Swap a Re-manufactured Engine Into a GT w/ Bent Valve - $9,500
I may have an opportunity to buy a GT with bent valve for $1500-$2000, but I'm concerned the block may be damaged. However, considering that it has a brand new clutch, 78mm TB and catback exhaust, it could be a great deal. A remanufactured engine from accurate engine costs $2,400 shipped (w/ core.) The engine is warrantied to 100k miles, but I'm certain that warranty is void after adding a supercharger. This option seems solid, but if it blows up, I'm SOL.
Option 3: Build a Forged Engine Using GT w/ Bent Valve - $11,800
Similar to option 2, but I pay a shop to build a forged block and recondition the heads. A local shop quoted $4,700 for parts, assembly, balancing and 3-year/100k warranty (still valid with S/C installed). It's a bit more than I want to spend, but it seems to be the safest route. However, for that price, I could go through two re-manufactured engines.
Miscellaneous Questions:
- Since the car is high mileage, what other items should I plan on replacing? Suspension would be on the short list for me, and maybe a T56 down the road, but can everything else be expected to last deep into the 200k mile range?
- How difficult is it to get all of this insured at its real value, and how bad does that affect premiums? Is one insurance company better than others for this type of custom underwriting?