Fox Need advise 93 5.0 convertible prodject

[Rogie Stone]

Starting a prodject need advise

I have a 93 5.0 convertible bone stock

I painted the car added a double din stereo, fixed all window motors and door locks.

The car ran but rear main seal leaked and the rack was leaking other than that the car was ok.

The car has been sitting for two years while I finished a 442 prodject.

Plans are to dive in and , replace rebuild engine ( need advise on the best route to go this will be a driver but I want some power, maybe turbo / super charged, but will still need working AC.
Replace steering rack ( need advise on parts )
Change to 5 speed ( need advise on parts and weather to go cable or hydro clutch )
5 lug and rear disk conversion ( need advise on parts )
Suspension / needs to be rebuilt and car needs to be lowered ( need advise on parts maybe coil overs )

Also for anyone who has successfully tackled a similar project with success any advise would be appreciated especially when it comes to any useful upgrades I didn’t mention above or a efficienct order to tackle the work.

 

[General karthief]

Cruise through this forum for some answers

Progress Thread - Technical Thread/how-to Index

Guys, if "that should be a sticky," then please reply to this thread with the link to your suggestion and why you think it should be added. How to determine if a thread should be included: - Does the topic address a common fox 5.0 owner's needs? / Is it a frequently asked question? / Is it...

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And here for the brake upgrades, you're gonna need them lol

Brakes - The Ultimate 4-lug/5-lug Brake Conversion/upgrade Thread

Starting this thread with the hopes of reducing the number of 5-lug or general brake upgrade threads that have been appearing on the forums since most of the major brake conversion sites have gone down. This thread will be strictly informational, and any off-topic banter or user specific...

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Update this thread with your work and any questions you have.

 

[JD1964]

About the rack, they make 3 different ones that will fit. The difference is the number of steering wheel turns from lock to lock. The quickest ratio rack is listed at 2.25 turns. Get that one. The others are 2.5 and 3. The 2.25 one will be the sporty feeling one while driving.

When lowering be very careful not to go too low. So many people do, and while they may like the look, the ride turns to total crap and it rubs and bottoms out everywhere. It can make an otherwise nice car not enjoyable.

 

[JD1964]

I rescued a 93 convertible. It had been lowered and it rode like total garbage. I put the stock springs back in and now it rides great. I like it more every time I drive it.

My 92 LX has stock rear springs but I have a rear mount battery, a pretty heavy sub woofer box and a tool kit back there. I don't mind the extra weight as it gives me more traction that I need. I bet the weight I have back there lowers the rear maybe an inch. In the front I have about the mildest lowering springs you can get. 1.25 inch with the isolaters I think they are. It gives the car a slight forward rake that I prefer for looks. I get tons of compliments and nobody ever says I need to lower it. I have Strange adjustable drag struts on the front set at the softest setting. There's a slight amount of float at bumps during highway speeds but otherwise at lower speeds it handles bumps way smoother and quieter than the stock struts did. I retain the stock sway bars front and rear and even with the softer front struts, cornering is still spot on.

 

[JD1964]

BTW, 442's are badass! Lets see a pic of that!

 

[2000xp8]

Does the current engine have any serious issues like burning oil or knocking?
If not, I see no reason to rebuild it. Fix the main seal and power steering leaks.
Forget the turbo, just read up a little and you will find all the jack stands jokes.
I'd probably forgo the SC too.

It's a vert, first thing to do would be sure up the chassis and suspension, especially if the car isn't beat. Extra power turns a vert into a rattle trap.

There are a lot of things that should be taken into considering before adding power to any fox, that goes double for convertibles.
Brakes and suspension should be done first.
You add a bunch of power to a car with mediocre brakes and poor suspension it's a recipe for trouble.
Then i'd do a heads cam intake setup.
If that doesn't cut it, add an SC later.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Starting a prodject need advise

I have a 93 5.0 convertible bone stock

I painted the car added a double din stereo, fixed all window motors and door locks.

The car ran but rear main seal leaked and the rack was leaking other than that the car was ok.

The car has been sitting for two years while I finished a 442 prodject.

Plans are to dive in and , replace rebuild engine ( need advise on the best route to go this will be a driver but I want some power, maybe turbo / super charged, but will still need working AC.
Replace steering rack ( need advise on parts )
Change to 5 speed ( need advise on parts and weather to go cable or hydro clutch )
5 lug and rear disk conversion ( need advise on parts )
Suspension / needs to be rebuilt and car needs to be lowered ( need advise on parts maybe coil overs )

Also for anyone who has successfully tackled a similar project with success any advise would be appreciated especially when it comes to any useful upgrades I didn’t mention above or a efficienct order to tackle the work.

My advice is to replace the s with a c. It’s “ advice.”

 

[General karthief]

 

[Rogie Stone]

BTW, 442's are badass! Lets see a pic of that!

Not the best picture but the only one I have of it out of the garage

 

[General karthief]

Those wheels make that car look so much smaller than it really is. At least in a pic. Looks good.

 

[Rogie Stone]

BTW, 442's are badass! Lets see a pic of that!

Does the current engine have any serious issues like burning oil or knocking?
If not, I see no reason to rebuild it. Fix the main seal and power steering leaks.
Forget the turbo, just read up a little and you will find all the jack stands jokes.
I'd probably forgo the SC too.

It's a vert, first thing to do would be sure up the chassis and suspension, especially if the car isn't beat. Extra power turns a vert into a rattle trap.

There are a lot of things that should be taken into considering before adding power to any fox, that goes double for convertibles.
Brakes and suspension should be done first.
You add a bunch of power to a car with mediocre brakes and poor suspension it's a recipe for trouble.
Then i'd do a heads cam intake setup.
If that doesn't cut it, add an SC later.

Engine actually runs well but car has 175000 on it.
I am just not sure what a good driveable heads, cam, Intake, throttle body, intake combo would be behind a five or six speed.
I haven’t owned or worked on a fox body since high school and I am sure the aftermarket has much more to offer now.
I just don’t think I will be satisfied with anything less than 350 HP min.
Is a reliable 350 HP feasible from a 93 stock bottom end block minus the stock cam of course ?

 

[2000xp8]

IMO, mileage is just a number on these cars.
There is 350hp and 350rwhp.
350hp is pretty easy.
350rwhp is attainable but takes more money and effort.

Assuming you assemble the hci setup correctly with the right supporting parts, a 300rwhp setup (which is about 350 flywheel hp) should run just fine.

I'd look into the trick flow top end kit.
Then you will need at least a 155lph pump, 80mm prom and 24lb injectors.

You have to be mindful of the rabbit hole when it comes to an SC, they amplify every little problem the car has.

Remember the stock block is only good for 450-500rwhp (500 is pushing it).
The t5 may last 10 seconds with a modified engine or 20 years.
My money says good tires 350rwhp or more shatters a t5 (something I have experience with, twice)
Don't disregard my chassis and brake advice.
Get associated with the maximum motorsports catalog.
At the minimum you will need shocks, struts, lower rear control arms, probably springs and definitely subframe connectors.
Oh and torque box reinforcements.
Unless of course you want the car to drive like a twisted mess and your doors don't close right.

Let's not forget gears too.

It's a lot of money to go all in on the engine.
Which is why I say supporting parts first, then engine work so you don't land up with some powerful POS (which is how we all did it 25 years ago).

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

I've been building my 89 LX convertible for the past 2 years. It had all the MM chassis bracing and subframes, C springs and Koni oranges. After 6yrs of not touching it,I decided to do a HCI swap on my 90k short block. Well,I have a side gig that at times provides me with alot of extra cash. That ended up with the purchase of a 331 short block. I already had the Edelbrock heads and Lunati cam. That whirlwinded into an On3 turbo purchase. A drivetrain upgrade was necessary so a TKO is sitting in the garage. Went ahead and did the Megasquirt PNP2 as well.LOTS of $$ spent,the car is nearing completion. I did enjoy the car briefly with the 331 NA, it was a tire frying machine. I would strongly recommend a stroker if you stay NA. But I'll tell you this,don't do it like I did. Have a plan and follow it. Definitely get your chassis upgraded before anything else,makes a huge difference.

 

[Rogie Stone]

Ok so sub frame connectors, torq box, five lug axels brakes steering rack, tie rods, bushings, controll arms and shocks will be first.

Thoughts on coil overs ?

Is there any good brake swaps ? or is Baer or Willwood the way to go on this cars ? I plan to have nothing less than 17” wheels.

Any good vendors for steering racks ?

Years ago I converted a 6 cylinder to a V8 and remember using a tubular K member it seemed stiffer than the stamped steel. Is it recommended to get a tubular K member that is if I can resist the temptation to get one for a LS swap as I am shopping for one.

 

[2000xp8]

maximum motorsports coil overs up front.
H&R springs in the rear.

Steering racks seem to be a controversial issue around here, it comes up often so just scan a few pages.

Brakes, 94/95 spindles, cobra pbrs, 94+ rears with north race car brackets. A topic that has a sticky post.

You don't need a tubular k member. Doesn't serve a whole lot of purpose.

 

[General karthief]

You don't need an LS either.

 

[Rogie Stone]

I may need to post this question on a different section, but I picked up some 96 spindals with new hubs, cobra rotors and calipers today along with a whole rear axel from a 95 automatic.

From reading posts on this forum I decided that I could use 96 spindals since I decided to buy a aftermarket K member to drop my steering rack to eliminate bump steer.

I live close to summit so I can go pick up the K member, control arms and coil overs if I go with QA1

Can anyone recommend if I need to get spindals for a 93 or for a 96 ?
If anyone has used QA1 with success any part numbers would be appreciated.

I used QA1 coil overs and control arms on my last build ( 72 442 ) and I am happy.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Dude!!!!!! Do you have freakin spell check??

( Cause you need it)

SPINDLES,.....AXLE.

 

[Rogie Stone]

I still need some parts for my car but one thing I don’t need is a spell check as long as you keep replying to my reply

 

[JD1964]

Not the best picture but the only one I have of it out of the garage

The Olds looks great! Although, I'm not crazy about that wheel and tire combo you have on it.