Engine Need guidance on my mild engine mods

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,291
8,777
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hit up Matt at Silverfox for your AOD. I am running his Valve body, A servo and other parts. My 90 makes over 500hp and the AOD works perfect. Get the biggest plate style cooler you can fit for insurance.
 

Middleagecrisis

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
98
44
28
Ok guys, I could not get the motor over 154 degree's F. I am not sure why due to not being the orig owner so I will find out soon if it even has a thermostat in it. The car had some minor mods from back in the 90's. It had a flowmaster catback, msd ign coil, air horns and a flex lite radiator fan that was clutchless, permantly mounted to pully. I removed the setup and installed a new ford clutch fan and clutch.

4-- 175 8-- 165
3-- 170 7-- 170
2--170 6-- 170
1-- 170 5-- 175
Nothing wrong with those numbers. Even better if you've got the 87-92 forged pistons! Check your #3 main bearing and a few rod bearings to make sure there not excessively worn and go from there.
 

Gnfanatic

Member
Sep 27, 2018
44
2
8
hello everyone, Took motor apart and worried about what I see on the middle crank bearing. Opinions welcomed, if I need a refresh I am screwed. The bores still have the machine markings and no ridge. Factory head gaskets and motor mounts to amazingly. Let me know what you think. The crank journal looks brand new.
 

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manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
1,902
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I see just normal wear
The thrust gets looking like that quick on one that has a clutch and is driven some hard
Just check the clearance and re use it if it's good
I just looked up the end play spec again it is .012"
 
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mob

the guy who hits on his mom
15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
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Why are you tearing apart a 39k mile engine?
I'm with you here, I'm so lost. My stock 5.0 has 170k miles and I still bounce that thing off the rev limiter all day.

Unless you are just extremley bored I would have left the motor together, could do more damage putting it back together if you don't know what you're doing.

I would opted for just changing the seals and throwing in a used T-5 when you put it back together over a set of aluminum heads. Doesn't matter how "strong" or "weak" the AOD is, it's so sluggish, I'm not sure it's even possible to damage a stock 5.0 with that tranny.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
23,672
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I do admire GN for having the guts to tear it apart, but I feel it was not needed.
I would oil it up and stick it back together.
As for the auto trans, change the oil, stick a shift kit in it and ride.
A gear change would be in order but a trans swap? Naw.
 
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Middleagecrisis

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
98
44
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I did the same thing with a '99 Explorer motor that was supposed to be a cheap build. ARP rod bolts that needed to have the rods resized, ARP head bolts, new Lunati cam, the right valve springs/retainers/locks, forged pistons, on and on. One thing led to another, and my cheap build motor isn't so cheap anymore!
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
2,900
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I did the same thing with a '99 Explorer motor that was supposed to be a cheap build. ARP rod bolts that needed to have the rods resized, ARP head bolts, new Lunati cam, the right valve springs/retainers/locks, forged pistons, on and on. One thing led to another, and my cheap build motor isn't so cheap anymore!
I feel your pain... NO such thing as a cheap build... I would rather use parts and a machine shop that I pick though, rather than buy a " rebuild" off of ebay..
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