need help!!!! broken lower intake bolt

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pictures would help and have you completely removed the lower intake..if not remove it and see if you have enough of the bolt stud left to remove without having to use an easy out.or you may want to try to remove it without removing intake with an easy out if its accessable...below are pics of an easy out..
8pc.jpg
 
Just remove the intake. Forget any other action. You have to be sure that

A. You have the most access possible w/o removing the heads.

B. You don't get shavings into your valley.

C. You drill perfectly center (if easyout is necessary).

Did the bolt crossthread, or did it just snap when you were torqueing it down? How much is sticking out of the cylinder head.
Scott
Scott
 
that is why you don't torque the intake bolts! I know you were probably just following the instructions but just keep tightening them in the proper sequence until they are nice and snug.

and if your not in a hurry and can afford it, you might as well get a nice set of heads.

good luck to you, I've never been good with easy outs and such.

scott
 
dont buy a set of heads......It really isnt all that hard to get a bolt out.....If it snapped from overtorque than it really shouldent be in there all that tight.....be happy it diden't bottom out than snap.

Take off the lower. Next, fill all the holes in the head, etc with paper towel. Go get a set of small reverse drill bits and an easy out.....there good to have anyway.

Now, take a punch and make a indent in the perfect center....take your small reverse drill bit and drill it out a bit.....it may come out with just the drilling....if it dosent, hammer the easy out in and crank that puppy out.
 
Check me if I wrong Sandy but . . . the lower intake bolts into the block, not the heads.

Do as others suggested. Pull the lower off. Most likely you will get lucky and be able to back the bolt out with needle nose pliers or vice grips. Since the bolt failed when you were torquing it (not cross threaded) it should back out fine since there is no torque left on it (since the head is broken off).

I did the same thing when I over torqued a head bolt. Just about sheet a brick thinking I fouled the block up. But after getting the head off, I backed it out by hand. So don't panic - yet.

Good luck.
 
That same exact bolt snapped on me from rust when i was removing my stock intake manifold for the first time. Just like they said, spray some penetrating lube on it and drill a straight hole into it then easy out it be slow and smooth with it and it will come right out.
 
Daniel50 said:
well the easy out snapped flush into the bolt so now im screwed

Yeah you are in a pickle. That easy out will not be easy to get out. It is high carbon steel, and you will have an easier time chipping it out rather than drilling it, seriously.

I would attempt to get the easy out removed, but in all likelyhood, you need to pull the head and take it to a machine shop. They can get it out.

The bolt is still iron based, so they can weld a rod onto it and possibly back it out, or a few other options. Lasers can be used as well.

And No, the only thing that bolts to the block is the lifter valley retainer and the heads. Lower mani bolts to the heads, upper mani bolts to the lower mani.
Scott
 
I just got a broken bolt out of a block for a guy that broke a water pump / timing cover bolt almost flush with the block.
What I do is place a steel nut that is ever so slightly larger on the inside than the broken bolt over the broken bolt. Then I fire up the mig welder and weld the exposed part of the broken bolt to the inside of the nut. Fill it up with weld. That puts a lot of heat into the area (Good thing), let it cool for just about 20-30sec and then put a socket or wrench on the nut and turn out the broken bolt. I have pic's on my camera from the one I did 5 days ago. It works everytime.
Josh
 
braxx said:
I just got a broken bolt out of a block for a guy that broke a water pump / timing cover bolt almost flush with the block.
What I do is place a steel nut that is ever so slightly larger on the inside than the broken bolt over the broken bolt. Then I fire up the mig welder and weld the exposed part of the broken bolt to the inside of the nut. Fill it up with weld. That puts a lot of heat into the area (Good thing), let it cool for just about 20-30sec and then put a socket or wrench on the nut and turn out the broken bolt. I have pic's on my camera from the one I did 5 days ago. It works everytime.
Josh

yeah that is a real good idea.

Mine was crossthreaded bigtime so nothing would work in my situation.

So I have to drill it out and tap it, if I decide to reuse my old block.
Scott