need help with flexplate-torque converter bolt removal

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by gideup, May 26, 2004.

  1. I am in the process of pulling my 65 - 289 from my 2+2. Everything was going fine until it came time to remove the bolts that connect the torque converter to the flex plate. The inspection cover has been removed, in fact the car came without one. I went to break loose the first bolt using a 12 point socket. My wife is trying to keep the crank from rotating using a socket on the front pulley bolt. Well I managed to round the flex plate bold head off. I switched to a 6 point and not getting anywhere as it just wants to twist off. :shrug:

    I have more flexplate bolts to remove but I need to figure this out before I do anymore damage. What are my options, anybody?
  2. I don't remember the size on those. If it is a 9/16, use a 14mm, it is usually a tighter fit.
  3. Those nuts are supposed to be torqued to about 30 ft-lbs so if your having that much trouble they must have been over torqued or they have rusted especially with the inspection plate missing. If you can't get the nut loose, you may have to bite the bullit and use a cutoff wheel on a 4.5 in angle grinder and cut the nut off. In doing so, you'll probably cut the flywheel and certianly cut the torque converter stud off. The torque converter may be repairable but the flywheel probably not. Flywheels aren't a high doller item and a stock torque converter isn't either.
  4. brianj5600-Yes its a 9/16" bolt. I was thinking about looking at a metric socket. Has anybody used that Sears bolt removal tool? I am going to get a SAE 6 point set tomorrow before I try again on the other bolts.

    blkfrd-if I grind the head off I still have the bolt shaft in the torque converter. Assuming that I get all the other bolts off, I guess I would be able to break the link between the drive train and the motor. Still have that stud in the torque converter.

    Hey as a good laugh, I saw a smaller bolt and removed it, came out real easy. Surprise it was the drain plug for the TC. I put that baby back in reeeeel fast.
  5. You are having trouble because those nuts are aluminum and will round quite easily so always use a 6 point sockent and steady pressure to loosen them. Since you have already fubared one just get the next smaller 6 point socket and carefully hammer it on the rounded nut and try again.
  6. If none of those options work, I would recommend using a chisel. First put a groove in the side of the nut, then either continue splitting the nut until it breaks off, or use the chisel and hammer to get it twisting.
  7. I recommend soaking the nuts every day with a good penetrant. I've been using PB blaster (I think that's the name) lately, and love it. ..Like I was saying, soak the nuts every day for a week or so. Then try using a pair of vise grips - the kind that have "V" grooves in them so they grip the nut. Just tighten the vise grips as much as possible where you'll still be able to get them off. :D

    That may just break them loose. Once you get 1/2 turn on them, you should be able to go back to a 6 point socket.

    Then, if that strategy fails, use a nut breaker. You can get them at Sears or good tool shops. It's a little assembly that installs over the nut and then you can tighten a sharp edge against the nut. It's similar to the chisel method, only less likely to damage surrounding items.

    If none of that works, you can always brute force it with a grinder or something.

    Of course if you have more money than time, the grinder method is the fastest.

    Good Luck!!
  8. With a hex nut that is giving me trouble i usually notch the end of it fairly deep with a carbon cut-off disc so i can fit a good sized flat head screw driver on it. Then you have plenty of area for the bolt to grip, you might want to try this and use one of those hex flat head screw drivers with a breaker bar to get more leverage on it.
  9. I tried the 6 point socket, no luck. Went to a 6 pt 14mm socket, to late, to much damage. Went and got a Sears bolt removal tool and it did the trick. :flag: Whoever put those on must have used an impact wrench because one other nut was damaged. thanks for the suggestions. :nice:
  10. What might help:

    You should be able to remove the 289 without undoing the flex plate bolts. You'll just end up pulling the motor with flex plate and converter attached.

    That'll give you some room to work on it.

    This is what I did when pulling the 351W from my 70coupe with FMX tranny.