Ok so here's the deal... I got a Complete 351 C engine that had been Cleaned up and bored 60 over with the Crank turned. I got it cheap (150 bucks) because the Guy who had it had no clue where to start with it to put it back together. I'm only 19 but I get some help from my dad who knows a good deal about cars. I had a few questions though, I read on some other threads about people who had blocks bored 60 over and how quite a few people said they shouldn’t fool with that block because the walls are over specs and could over heat and crack and possibly cause detonation. I was wondering if there was some way to get around having to buy a different block. Maybe adding some dry sleeves ? Or Maybe another route. My dad told me that he thinks that resleeving that block would be to expensive and I should just look for another bare block. Also I was wondering if anyone could give me some good input on how I should set it up if I wanted this car to be a street able everyday driver/cruising car. I’m only looking into rebuilding the bare block up to a short block, the heads and all those more expensive items will come later when I save up a few thousand. Thanks
Need Help With my 351C rebuild
- Thread starter EvilRookie42286
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69Rcode_Mach1
Active Member
The car will overheat with that much of an overbore. I don't know though if .060 weakens the block on clevelands, on windsors it is fine, but again you run into cooling issues. I recommend finding another block that you can get more life out of. Because you will need to check the block for taper anyway and probably do a hone, if it has any taper with that much of an overbore it is scrap metal.
RMODEL65
Member
get unupgraded radiator 60 over is pushing it definitely but it should be fine for a weekend car!
There are two things you need to do, maybe only one. The first thing is to join the Cleveland forum http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/ and ask this question. If the guys over there say a 60 over is OK, then they'll probably also say to have the block sonic tested.
When a block is cast, it uses a sand core for a mold. When the master dies are removed and the molten iron is poured in, the sand can shift around slightly, causing non-uniform thicknesses of the cylinder walls. This is called core shift. The sonic testing will check various points in each bore and tell you if some of the walls are too thin. I believe, off the top of my head, that 0.200" is a minimun bore thickness. But that is something else that the Clevo forum members can tell you.
Your dad is right about re-sleeving. Way too expensive unless you're doing a numbers-matching resto on a Shelby or something.
Where this should be heading is that, if this block sonic checks no good, you should just forget about Clevos. If the block's no good and you don't have the heads or induction or exhaust, you should stay with the Windsor family. Cheaper, and just as good as a Cleveland for cruisin.
When a block is cast, it uses a sand core for a mold. When the master dies are removed and the molten iron is poured in, the sand can shift around slightly, causing non-uniform thicknesses of the cylinder walls. This is called core shift. The sonic testing will check various points in each bore and tell you if some of the walls are too thin. I believe, off the top of my head, that 0.200" is a minimun bore thickness. But that is something else that the Clevo forum members can tell you.
Your dad is right about re-sleeving. Way too expensive unless you're doing a numbers-matching resto on a Shelby or something.
Where this should be heading is that, if this block sonic checks no good, you should just forget about Clevos. If the block's no good and you don't have the heads or induction or exhaust, you should stay with the Windsor family. Cheaper, and just as good as a Cleveland for cruisin.
69 Rustang
Member
My Cleveland is 60 over and does not have cooling issues. I would also suggest you go to the other forum suggested previously as there is some good info there.
