Electrical Need Help With My 95 Gt

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by ssjmaverick23, May 25, 2012.

  1. The car has 85k and is mostly stock was completely stock till i got it back in jan. it seems like when you cruise around it will have trouble if you punch it kinda like its bogging and if you watch the tach its jumpy. I cleaned the MAF and that did not seem to do anything a couple weeks ago. Yesterday changed the IAC and the TPS and it feels better to were now at WOT it will take off were as before it would stumble but sometimes it still feels like its bogging and the RPMs are jumpy but will eventually take off. My check engine light has not came on or flashed but does work. when i first got the car it did not have this problem. So far i have changed the fuel filter, new MSD cap and rotor, ford racing 9mm wires, autolight 24 gaped at 54 ( the problem was before the tune up i thought it would help since from the looks of everything all the parts were still oem the plugs looked good), new 02 sensors along with a 2.5 off road h pipe flowmasters and 2.5 tail pipes ( cant have a quiet 5.0 and got the h pipe for free), and i added a 70mm bbk tb (i think the po of the tb might have adjusted the set screw is there anyway for me to reset it?) the car does not appear to have any vac leaks. Thats all i can think of at the moment thanks
  2. What about the air filter. You didn't say. If it's a K&N you might have over saturated it and as a result you may have a fine oil film on the MAF sensor.
  3. Nope no k&n just a reg filter that is new. Also it does not do this all the time and some times when its doing it when I go wot it will clear up and run fine.
  4. It's the PIP in the distributor itself. Given the age and mileage of the car, I'd just go ahead and replace the whole distributor. It will run you about $100 with core exchange at any parts store.

  5. It could be the PIP but generally as the PIP fails the engine usually just dies and a while later it can be started again. I'm more inclined to think it's the ignition coil or perhaps the ignition module. If you know how o pull codes without a reader I would do that next. Not all stored codes cause a CEL warning. A reader costs about $25 from Amazon. Probably cheaper than replacing unnecessary parts.
  6. I forgot to mintion I did put an msd coil on kinda helped but not much. Not sure if it helps by when I did the tune up and I had the cap off I felt around and everything felt tight. If I do replace the distributer would it be worth it to go with an mad distributor? It has died a couple times when I have came to a stop but started right back up. Also if I turn off od and keep the rpms up it seems to do better. Kinda feels like something is clogged up and will have a shake.
  7. The MSD distributors only last about 1000 miles. The factory one is a much better design.

  8. What would be a good brand distributor to go with? I'm going to try and go pick up a scanner so I can check for codes
  9. I just buy the rebuilt Cardone ones from the Autoparts stores. There are better brands out there, but they aren't worth the money. The Cardone ones aren't all shiny and pretty, but the majority of what you are getting is original Ford parts. The really pretty all new ones are more expensove and come with a bunch of parts made in the People's Republic of China. Usually a bad distributor doesn't throw a code, but you have the tell tail signs off one going bad. The problem gets progressively worse until the car becomes undriveable.

  10. I had read a few reviews for the cardone and everyone said they failed within a few hundred miles.I'm not worried about flashy just want a good reliable distributor if that's what I should replace.I will probably replace thee ignition module since I will be right there.
  11. Go to Advance auto parts and ask them to order a Richporter distributor. It will be brand spanking new, not reman'd and will come with all new parts on it including a new cap, rotor, and PIP sensor. Myself and a few other enthusiasts have caught Cardone reinstalling used sensors in their distributors simply because they "tested" good when they bench tested them. Problem is they usually fail when they are hot, so some poor soul buys their crappy distributor and it will fail on them the first time they take the car out.

    Here's the one you want: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...r-Richporter_20630582-P_218_R|GRPTUNEAMS_____

    Over the years I've own a few 94/95 Gt's and the distributor on all of them failed. And in my experiences a failed PIP sensor USUALLY causes the car to stall and not able to restart for 30 minutes or so. But, the last time one failed on me it would cause the tach to jump around and the car to stumble like mad. The only way I could get it over 4000 rpm was to ease it up there. If I romped on the car it would fall on it's face. And to add, I have NEVER had a TFI module fail on one of these cars.

    And please don't EVER buy a MSD distributor for that car. And if I were you I'd sell that MSD coil and buy a stock replacement else it will leave you stranded one day as well! MSD is junk now days, I wouldn't even put their wires on my car.
  12. Yeah, the Cardone ones definately aren't top of the line. It's a cheap replacement, and you get what you pay for. I've honestly never had one fail on me. The MSD ones are known to have problems. I don't know enough people who have used the Richporter to give a good recomendation on it. I try to steer clear of MSD stuff myself. I still have an MSD window switch, and a Digital 6. It's actually the 4th Digital 6 that's been in the car. I guess 4 times is the charm, because I've had this one in since like 2003. I wouldn't go pulling out MSD parts just for name sake though. I'd wait for it to fail and get another name brand performance coil.

  13. Thanks guys I will probably stop on my way home and order that distributor.thanks for the info on the msd I still have the stock coil in the trunk along with a small set of tools so if it goes I can swap it thanks. This is me and my wife's first 5.0 and we love it but then again we love all mustangs we have a room at our house just for them lol
  14. If you have the stock coil, you might want to throw that back on to see if it makes a difference. It's a free check. Usually when I have a coil go bad the car won't start at all.

  15. Update I finally got a chance to put in my new distributor and bumped my timing up 14 or 15. But the problem is still there you can punch it and its like its hesitating the tachometer is jumpy. It seems like after you stop and kill it and let it set about 30min it runs great then once you go back to cruising speed it starts acting up. Any ideas
  16. Even though you've cleaned the MAF I think it should still be suspect. All sensors get lazy over time and with use. It's quite probable that the sensor is still in spec but is slow to respond to changes in the throttle and air flow. I'm working on the assumption that it is stock and is now 17-18 years old.
  17. which dizzy did you end up going with? Can you get a video of the tach jumping around?
  18. Yes the MAF is stock the whole car is other than the few things I have mentioned that I have done. I ended up with the Richporter just from looking it over it seems well made. If I get a mew MAF what would you recommended just stock or anything better.
  19. Anything but a C&L. For a stock car I'd just stick with a stock replacement.
  20. Well I went and picked up a stock replacement MAF and put on the car did pretty good up till it warmed up then went back to doing it. Can a torque converter cause these problems? My father unlawful mentioned it I really hope that's not my problem. When its acting up it feels like something is clogged.