Need Rear Suspension Advice

dracoo

New Member
Mar 14, 2007
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In a nut shell i have a 2013 Mustang Gt premium/Clone Laguna Seca Boss, that I bought last Christmas Eve 2012. The Car has been modified all around, in looks, the Sound system and Engine. I am building my dream car. Car has a 2.3 TVS Ford Racing Whipple Super Charger. The car has been dyno tuned for pump gas. It has a 2.875 smaller upper pulley (9 to 10 steadyBoost) with a KB boost a pump, JLT 127 CAI, BBK Tuned Shorty Headers, Cat Deletes, Off road BBK X pipe and Magnaflows out the back. Tires are 20 inch staggered with 295 35 20's with Toyo proxis 4's for rubber. Rear rims are 10.5.

Now in answer to the question I always get, "why did you not just buy the Boss?" Answer; I would have bought the boss but had to have my soft top. I know, I know. Please be kind. Each to his own, Right!?

That said, with 634 rwhp and 565 rwtrq, I am having a heck of time planting it to the ground. Here is what i was told to do and plan to do. Any help before i put the money down would help. Also, I will not be lowering the car.

I was told to go to a 4 link on the rear end with adjustable uppers at a 2 degree angle change and a solid pan bar.

Anyone out there pushing this kind of power, with similar number to the rear end? If so, what did you do to help plant rear end ?

Car is for fun, not track. It is Very street derivable and friendly and i would like to keep it that way. It will see track time next year just to get 1/4 mile numbers on paper.

Sorry for any misspellings or improper grammar. That is not my strongest point.

Thank you in advance
 
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Well I'm gonna do the mod to the rear end to help. I know the 2 degree pinion angle change will help on top of the other mods. Then I do have a pair of nichie 18s, 10.5. I'll just have to get drag radials for them and use the 20 for fun, shows, and road trips. Use the 18s and drag radials for the power fun.

My rwhp isn't killing me, it's the added more foot pounds of torque we got out of her to the rear wheels when we spun down to a smaller and smaller upper pulley. Started with a 3.3, then to a 3.0 and now the 2.875. Complicating launches and dig races, even from a roll depending on conditions. The added torque with my 20s 295 35, I can see is braking everything loose on payment. When we started this project with the Ford Cal stock tune and 3.3 pulley, I only made 495 rwqr. Never had a problem then with these 20's. Different story now.

I have a friend putting down more rwhp power than I am with a center fuse vortec on a 2012 5.0 gt. Almost 700 rwhp. But his torque varys from 490 to 510 on his dyno pulls. In a dig race (if I keep traction) he can not take me. At a roll of 35-40 , we are pretty neck and neck unless one of us screws up a shift or I break traction.

Any other suggestions ?

I'm always open to real world experience.
Thanks again

Sent from my SM-N900P
 
Question. Is that your 10 in the video? If so is it a 4.6 3v build?

I had a 07 I traded in on the 13. But we did not dare push her much past 450. I was always afraid the rods might go. She as my 13, were all stock internals

We are using basically the same blower. What pulley size are you runing and bost?

I was making 9 until we did the intake and exhaust from the heads back. Dropped me to 7 boost because of efficency. That is why the pulley down size and re tune to get it back up to 9=10.

Oh.... If that is your car in the you tube video.... let me say, VERY VERY SWEET!



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That's UPR's 2010 in the video. It belongs to my boss Mark. I've driven it. It's a beast! It is a 4.6 3V, stroked out to 5.0. The TVS2300 is making 17lbs of boost.

I own a 2011 5.0 NA, and an '89 with a 427 on 28lbs of boost. :cool: I'm addicted to horsepower!