Need to adjust Idle on FRPP 70mm T/B!!! (ASAP)

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by BlackenedSVT, Mar 11, 2006.

  1. No way! I'm a learning mechanic, and i have done everything to my car so far, and will continue to do so. I like learning on my own car :)
  2. The IAT is the Intake Temperature Sensor. On some cars, the sensor is just slid into a hole in the rubber intake hose, by the MAF, and on other cars, it's actually integrated into the MAF.

    COPs are 'Coil On Plugs'. They are near the chrome fuel rails, and have wire harnesses running to each one. They are round on top. Try not to get any type of moisture near them, because they are very prone to failure, especially if the rubber boots have not been cared for.

    Do you have a cold air intake?

    What code number are you getting exactly? I'd like to look it up myself.
  3. Wow I must have been blind, how did I miss out on the fun that this thread is.

    Ok from quickly reading the posts it sounds like you have a vacumm leak. Do you have access to a scan tool with live data?

    do as these guys said and check around for obvious vac leaks and then spray around the intake, starting with the parts you replaced with carb cleaner or somthing similar.

    But if you can get us the long term fuel trims for bank 1+2 at idle, maf voltage would be helpfull too.

  4. No CAI, mods are in sig. And if you go to page 2 or 3 of this thread, you can see the codes that i pulled. I dont remember off hand...

  5. I work at a shop, so i do have access to an old snap on scan tool. And yes the car is givign me a vacuum leak code. If you read all of page 3 of this thread, you can get a good idea of what i have done to try and fix the prob, but still no luck.

    I'll have to try and ask my boss, becuase im not sure how to use the scanner to get the bank 1+2 fuel trims at idle. I'll have to get back to u on that this weekend.


    Anyway, in the mean time im going to make all new gaskets later today and see if that fixes the leak
  6. Having access to a scantool would have been usefull information 4 pages ago.:rlaugh:
    When you hook it up go ahead and check your tps voltage at idle also.

  7. yep. now that you can get live data we can help you better.

    jstreet0204 has been helping you too. he is very knowledgeable on this stuff. problems are not easy to fix over the internet without seeing the car.

    so get us bank and bank 2 fuel trims, the exact codes and the TPS volts reading and maf readings. and we can go from there

    Ok and one last thing almost forgot. we need to know what the TPMODE says. this might be avialible in your scan tool in live data and is really important to this problem.

    TP mode can read three things C/T ( closed throttle) P/T (part throttle and WOT ( wide open throttle) now if your TP mode is reading P/T even with the voltage at .99 closed throttle then there is a problem related to the TPS/PCM

    Hopefully your scan tool has this PID. also while watching TPS voltage do a slow full sweep from C/T to WOT and see if the increase in voltage is smooth.
  8. Ok i dont want to sound rude, because your help is appreciated, but if you read the 1st 3 pages, you would know that i HAD a scan tool from the begining, and i told you what the codes were...
    But i didn't really know what to look for OTHER than the DTCs, so i didn't note the fuel trims or anything like that.

    The car has to be running rich, because its sucking down gas mileage bad, to compensate for the vacuum leak.

    Now SVTTECH, i will be getting the Bank 1 and 2 Fuel Trims from my more advanced scanner at my tech school tomorrow. I'll write everything down ya want and i'll get back to you tomorrow afternoon.

    IN THE MEANTIME: I'm going outside and am going to cut new gaskets for the T/B. I have some Rubber Gasket maker stuff i bought from autozone. And HOPEFULLY tihs will fix the problem, and i wont need to get the fuel trims tomorrow :D

    I'll keep ya posted.
  9. :scratch: that means "ITS" lol. IAT means "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE" .:flag:
  10. :mad: :bang: :fuss: mother f*@$#!

    I just installed the new T/B gasket, and ran it through the idle without gassing it for 15 minutes procedure, and then started it up again and i STILL have the vacuum leak!!!

    The car sounds quieter, but it still idles at the same 1500 RPM, with hanging RPMs still too.
  11. Point taken. I hope you solve it soon. Sounds like you are def learning from it so you are accomplishing your stated goals. :nice:

    I also like DIY, but I think I would have given up by now and taken it to a shop. You have more patience than I :flag:
  12. I'm not going to lie to you, im growing thin... but when i go to work at my shop this weekend, i'll have my other mechanic buddy there take a look at it with me.

    If i can't fix it by then :rolleyes:

  13. you also did a plenum right? did you check the plenum base and make sure thats not leaking. or how about a hairline crack in the intake manifold ( never seen this but possible)

  14. I didn't see anyhairline cracks in the intake manifold...but i did port it myself so i guess its possible....:scratch:

    And the plenum base had no gasket, only the o-ring there...

    I can try changing the EGR gaskt and IAC gasket tomorrow...i gave up tonight lol
  15. Have you tried the carb cleaner, or propane to check for the leak yet? When a leak like that isn't obvious, you can chase your tail forever trying to find it. Using one of those methods will pinpoint it much quicker.

    Mechanic tip #1: Try not to guess or throw parts at a problem. Trouble shoot with all of the tools and information you have available. It will save you a lot of money, and head aches down the road.

  16. I know i know. i dont have carb cleaner yet!!! Sorry guys, i'll try and get some!! And the only reason i thew a new gasket at it is because everyone said the T/B should have a new gasket anyway. so
  17. After reading all this I must agree with the guy that said to try and adjust your throtle stop screw. Looking at the pictures you can see how far the screw has been turned out by looking at the orange lock tight on the end of the screw. If the screw is set wrong it would account for your high idle and all the problems you had setting your TPS voltage. Don't fear turning that screw by the sound of you cann't mess it up any more than it is. If you don't want to do this just put the stock TB back on to see if that fixes the problem. The plenum setup is really simple on these cars with very few gaskets and few vacuum hoses so I find it hard to belive you're still missing a vacuum leak after all the double checking you have done. However, some of the hard plastic vacuum lines can be easy to break when they get some age on them, and the way they are covered up by their plastic shields you might not know it. These hoses are the red and black ones that hook to the intake. Check them well. Your car should not need more than a few minutes to relearn its idle after a mod like this, it took my old '02 GT about one minute after I installed my plenum and TB if it takes longer than that something is not right. If you don't have a stock TB I have one and a BBK 75mm I would let go real cheap. I hope you find some of this worth reading.

  18. The problem is though, that there is a vacuum leak code. A vacuum leak can only occur AFTER the T/B blade, not really at how is this the prob? I'm not completely ruling it out, because if i can't find it i will try messing with the set-screw this weekend.

    But when i put my whole hand over the T/B inlet, the car is supposed to didn't. the car bogged down but still ran. So clearly there IS a vacuum leak somewhere, not just a partially open throttle body blade

  19. EDIT EDIT EDIT read this

    I read in the first page you have a p1506 code. thats a IAC overspeed error code. :lol: wow we have been barking up the wrong damm tree. I wish I read the whole thread a few days ago. LOL

    you most likely need a IAC valve. but now you messed with that TPS so bad you may need one of those too.

    there is no such thing as a vacuum leak code so I went back and read your first posts.

    try giving the iac a few whacks with a hammer. ( don't go nuts with the hammer) if that temp fix it then get another IAC somehow.

    I still want to see the live data if you can.

    the IAC valve will allow air to enter the intake so you hand over the TB test proves nothing. thats what the iac valve does. it allows air to bypass the TB so the engine gets enough air to idle. the pcm opens and closes the iac to allow air in. the amount that the IAC is open will determine the idle speed.
  20. Yeah I didn't see that either. I picked this one up about 2 pages in when they were drilling on the tps. For some reason I thought he had replaced the IAC but I must have been confusing it with another thread. If tapping it doesn't work, plug the hose going to the IAC. If the idle drops or dies you know that is your problem.