Need to shave off 2-4 tenths... ideas?

Hey All...

My no option Coupe has run a best of 13.11 @ 102.74 MPH, 1.8 60'.

This was with 100000 mile never had the valve covers off motor, and through the stock 4 cat H pipe. My goal is go to run solid 12.70s - 12.80s with the untouched engine and maaaayybeee the stock H pipe but an off road X is fine.

Current Mods:
Ford Racing 155 L/hr fuel pump, BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator & guage, Mac equal length shorty headers, stock H pipe w/ 4 cats, straight pipes in place of muffs with correct 2 1/2" stainless tails, K&N cone filter, C&L 73mm Mass air meter, 65 mm T-body, Underdrive pulleys, Ford Racing 10mm plug wires, Ford Racing clutch and flywheel, Ford Racing Super Duty 2.95 T5-Z trans, Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft, HPM Motorsports driveshaft safety loop, Kenny Brown subframe connectors. The engine is unrebuilt, internally stock, with about 100000 miles. Rear end is stock with a set of 3.73 gears. NO clutch fan at track. Suspension is stock with the front sway bar removed. Never weighed it but guessing about 2800-2850 LB without me. I've removed about 110 LBs of tar and sound deadener, as well as sway bar, dog bone etc etc etc..

Going to do:
I have a MSD 6AL here i'm installing - worth adding as far as a few HP [larger plug gap??]?? Or sell it and spend the $ on something else?? Also mounting the battery in the trunk, and removing the front bumper brace and struts..[27 LBs!!!] [and its not street driven much at all anyhu..].

OK, my Questions for y'all:

What about an off road X pipe?? Always hear that on stock engines the off road mid pipes dont give much HP at all and give up alot of TQ. Waste of $$?? Or just what the doctor order top make her pull a bit better after the 1/8 th mile :shrug:

i'm thinking about buying one of them [mezierre?] elec water pumps, that keeps the serp belt with an idler pulley but is a electric water pump. That has to be worth 5-10 HP to the rear wheels no??

Flaming River rack to ditch the pwer steering - BUT how much HP is that worth though seeing as how your not turning the wheel [working the pump] while going straight down the track?

Suspension work??? Rear LCAs? 90/10 struts?? WHICH ONES? I know my 60 foot times need work. With my T Type 102.74 MPH would always go 12s on a low 1.7 60's. In fairness our track sucked last time out too. NO track prep whatsoever.

REmove cone filter and run a ram air setup piped right to the C&L MAF?? Yay or nay?

Without gong in the motor what do you guys suggest to get me into the 12.70- 12.80s? Seems, i'm only a high 1.6/1.70 60 foot, and about 20 HP away... :canflag:

Thanks a bunch.

Once I reach this goal its Thumper time.
 
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I would keep the MSD 6AL.

LCA's would be a good idea. X2C sells decent looking control arms cheap. They say the R's will compete with MM, but who knows MM is the best.

Slicks or Drag radials would be a good idea. I say get a off-road H-pipe.

I would say 12's will be easy with everything you mentioned.
 
TrophyHead said:
I would keep the MSD 6AL.

LCA's would be a good idea. X2C sells decent looking control arms cheap. They say the R's will compete with MM, but who knows MM is the best.

Slicks or Drag radials would be a good idea. I say get a off-road H-pipe.

I would say 12's will be easy with everything you mentioned.


shallow staging at the tree will help with your ET also. they did an article on it in MM&FF. Car is actually rolling before it trips the beams by doing this, said it was good for a 1/10 or more off the ET.
 
12's

I didn't see anything mentioned about an intake. An intake and manual steering would give you the 20 hp you're looking for. Also, I think for a combo like your's you could see a tenth or two by changing to 4.10's. I'm assuming you already are on some type of drag tire. Also, a race crak pulley would/should give you a tenth. The electric water pump that you're talking about is a total waste for your car. You could do alot better with the money elsewhere. It seems that your car already runs great. Don't be too disapointed if you change a lot of stuff and only see minimal results.
 
I've read alot about the cone filter not being beneficial unless you have it shielded from heat in the engine bay. A home-made ram air setup might help a bit. Relocating the battery sounds like a good idea. 4cyl springs up front maybe??
 
instead of getting an electric water pump and geting rid of your power steering i've heard of people running NO belt at the track ? cheap .10 maybe? also get an off road h or x pipe i put an h pipe on with 3.55 gears with out any other mods (second thing i did to the car) and didn't notice a loss of torque
 
I vote for the off road pipe, if you want to stay green a catted one, but something better than that stocker. At this point the damn thing is probably a little clogged. If you get and offroad pipe, you can ditch the smog pump. I like the idea of ditching weight, yank that front bumper stuff and move that battery.

I know that you love a stock long block, but your car would rock with a tmoss lower intake. They really help torque and horsepower. I have a notch just like yours I am converting from a 4 banger and my goal for that is the 12s. I am probably going to stick with stock heads, but use a ported lower intake.

LCAs would be great too, but weld up those torque box seams when you put them in. They are only tack welded in there.

Good Luck
Chris
 
yeah on a stock car when u ditch teh Stock pipe it doesnt do much but that pipe is killing u with the mods that u have. get rid of it. eitehr high flow catted one or off road. ported stock intake or a aftermarket one will wake that car up alot. those are #1 priority IMO...then some suspension work, LCAs, ditch the front sway bar at the track, ditch the spare tire. 24# injectors..and i dont know what u mean by not touching the motor (anything past valve covers or heads and stuff?) but roller rocker would be good. that should have u set