Needing help on the best way to tackle alot of sheet metal replacement

Sep 13, 2019
6
0
1
34
Tennessee
I have a substantial project ahead of me right now and I’m trying to seek all the wisdom i can get from everyone. I have a very rusty 1970 fastback that’s on the way to becoming a T/A inspired Boss 302 build for street/track. I’ve got the car stripped down currently to the body and rear suspension/axle. Besides that everything is removed and I’ve been starting to get measurements and order parts. I’m not worried about being able to do the work but it’s much more than any work i have previously done all at once on a single car. I want to get the car to where I can put the new front steering and suspension on and get her rolling. I am replacing so much of the car though that I am unsure what the best order would be to remove/replace: what I’ve got or will be ordering soon consists of the following: transition pan(I am going to staggered shocks and assume I don’t need the pan with mounts if I’m ordering the staggered shock body mounts?), rear seat pans, full floor pan,(rear frame rails are somehow actually solid!), wheel tubs(looking at the wider ones that still allow rear seat usage), toe pans, complete cowl assembly, subframe connectors(weld in but haven’t decided which yet as i see some go through the floor), one piece seat riser, two piece torque boxes, radiator core with crossmember, floor supports, and front frame rail/inner fender/shocktower assemblies. Basically everything ahead of the firewall is crap. My inner kick panels are good, firewall is good minus toe area, inner/outer rockers are good. All the interior/sail panels are good. I’ll have more to do like trunk floor/quarters etc, but right now i need to get a solid base. Also what’s the best source for measurements for all the panels? I’m marking numerous ones down from my car but I’d like something to compare all the dimensions to. So for you experienced folks who’ve had to do large sheet metal replacement on these cars what order would you recommend i remove the panels and then reassemble? As soon as i have all the panels mentioned above we’re going to roll it in the shop and start stripping, sandblasting, and priming. My thoughts are remove front frame rails and everything forward first, after torque boxes are removed. Then cowl. Then remove the floor supports and toe panels. Not sure on the best reassembly order or how practical that is. Then I was gonna move on to floors, transition pan, etc. or should I replace the floor pan/transition pan first?
 

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wicked93gs

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
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The way I did it was: 1.floor-to-firewall transition pans(with torque boxes at the same time), 2. full-length floor pans(cut down and re-used existing risers) 3. Upper/lower cowl 4. Rear floor pan extensions 5. Radiator support and both front fender aprons 6. Quarter panels and wheel housings(currently finishing that part) after that, all I will have left to do is the tail light panel to be rust free. I suggest a one-piece floor pan though...it will save you a lot of time if you have to replace floor pan and rear floor pan extensions. I also hand fabbed and patched the portion of the trunk floor that drops down under the rear floor pan extensions. If you patch one small panel at a time, measurements usually aren't even needed(except for the fender apron/ frame rail area) but if you plan on cutting all that out at once...you are going to have to build a bracing jig to maintain all your alignments
 

2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
Mar 5, 2019
2,196
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Oahu
Way to jump off into the deep end.
I started on firewall ends and torque boxes. Then cowl upper and lower and sides. Followed by front fender aprons
 
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