New and need help

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by jrlipska, Nov 22, 2011.

  1. Hello all fellow muscle heads,

    I have undertaken a daunting project on a '67 coupe. I was invited to rebuild this Mustang. When I first visited the project the engine and transmission were out of the car and completely disassembled. I have worked on cars for many years in both a personal and professional capacity. The last time I completely rebuilt a '67 coupe, I was 19 years old. I have completely rebuilt the engine to the following specs..... new forged crank, 10:1 pistons, comp cam, double valve springs, valves updated to 351 valve sizes, trick flow 1:6 ratio roller rockers, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock 650 carb, high torque starter, headers, MSD blaster ignition system, electric fuel pump, etc.

    Anyway the wiring is incomplete. I have most of it fixed but not completely confident in my fixes. I tried to roll the motor over on Saturday, with a remote starter, it would turn and nothing was touching i.e.- valves etc. My remote starter was getting hot and not allowing me multiple revolutions of the engine (I could only get 1-2 revolutions before the wires were just smoking hot, literally). I will use jumper cables, across the solenoid, next time I am there. I am not sure I have all the wiring correct. I am looking to wire the electric fuel pump to the ignition. Anyone have a picture showing which wire is the "run" wire for constant power?

    Any advice on this is much appreciated. I have tried the ignition switch just to turn the engine and have no response.

    Many thanks fellow gear heads,

  2. You lost me at Edelcrock....

    Just kidding! What do you mean "run" wire for constant power? Do you mean off the key switch or off the relay? I can get a picture off my buddy's Falcon later if you mean the relay. His car is set up with an old Painless wiring kit and a one wire alternator.
  3. I put a toggle switch on mine.

    Makes the car almost theft proof too, cause it won`t start without the switch on.

  4. Hi,
    From your description, it sounds like you are connecting your remote stater SW in correctly. I use one, as well. Connect the red to the "battery" side of the solenoid, and the other (black) to the "S" terminal on the front left of the solenoid. This is the proper way.
    Good Luck!

  5. Sorry I should have been a bit more descriptive in my question. I have an electric fuel pump for an Edelbrock 650 carb. I have the fuel pump grounded to chassis and I am trying to run the positive for the pump. I would like to run the positive off the ignition switch if possible. I guess I am asking which wire on the on the ignition switch will properly "run" the fuel pump while the switch is in the "run" position. I am, however, concerned that if the ignition switch is inadvertently left in the run position it will flood the carb and possibly the engine with unwanted fuel. Maybe, I am just missing some simple information regarding how the "run" position functions on this car.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I was making a joke about Edelbrock. I personally wouldn't buy their products with your money. Anyway...
    The best way to figure out your wiring is with a multimeter. Key on and back probe the switch for voltage then key off and do the same thing until you find the correct terminal. Be sure to use a relay for it off of your fuse box and wire your ignition switch to activate the relay. You could actually use one relay to control several other relays if you are running electric fuel pump, electric fans, MSD box, and electric water pump all at the same time.
    If you are using a fuel pressure regulator (like you should) it won't flood the carb.

    Use this link for lots of info on relays:

    Hope this helps!!
  7. Hey great link for wiring relays, thanks.....