new clutch for 93 LX

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Dan93fox, Mar 3, 2013.

  1. I am planning on a new clutch for my 5.0 fox body. Summit Racing suggested the RAM Muscle Car series since I am planning on leaving it mostly stock except a few bolt ons. Some friends have suggested the RAM HDX but Summit said it will make for a stiff pedal and I really don't need it for what I'm doing. Any input would be very much appreciated
  2. Ram makes a good clutch but I always run centerforce myself
  3. Both sources I went to recommended RAM. Summit the Muscle Car Series and my local speed shop the HDX. I know the HDX is more heavy duty but I don't want it to be uncomfortable to drive
  4. I replaced mine with a King Cobra. I love the pedal feel. It is super soft. If I was drag racing every weekend I would consider something else maybe. However my T5 builder Hanlon Motorsports told me that one key to T5 survival is a clutch that doesn't slip but doesn't hit as hard. To cushion the blow in other words. After seeing his shop, car, work, etc. with his 25yrs of being a Tremec builder/dealer, I bought what he said.
  5. I'll be needing a clutch soon and not looking forward to it. I have a spec now and I liked it. Does anyone still run these? I know they were never really popular like the king cobra or centerforce
  6. i dont know if you have ever done it its not bad on a fox at all.

    As far as the original thread. My centerforce dfx was worth every penny spent on it and then some. The pedal feel is very easy with the Max motorsports cable setup and the clutch bites at any sign of letting off aggressively but can be slipped in traffic and town and the car not buck like a bronco.
  7. Spec clutches are garbage.
  8. I myself was going to run a stage 2 until i read how much everyone hated them , Then i just closed my eyes and hit check out on the centerforce.... once i put it in the price tag was no longer an issue in my mind
  9. I had a center force in two of my cars a spec in one and king cobras in all the rest. The center force was the best
  10. This thread has me leaning towards center force.
  11. I have an HDX in mine which I like but it makes for a pretty stiff pedal. I have use King Cobra in the past and been satisfied and it has a much softer pedal. I have no experience with Centerforce but can't recall hearing anything bad about them.
  12. DO IT DO IT DO IT ! No seriously it's worth every penny ... I sound like a broken record lol MM cable setup makes it feel just as soft as stock and boy does it bite !
  13. I just got a Center force for my '88, used for $100. I'm not sure if it is the dual friction or not, but either way. He said he put less than 500 miles on it, and I believe the guy. Hell, it is still orange, barely any grease on it, all the stickers look brand new, and the clutch is still real thick. I was pretty happy with the deal. Plus he threw in a freshly turned down stock flywheel as well, for free.

    Now, from what I've been reading, you guys would suggest the MM clutch cable package?
  14. When I had a stick car years ago Pro Motion spec'd a McLeod clutch for mine and it was incredible. With absolutely no break in other than the 10 miles to the dyno it held up to 495 rwhp and proceeded to last the 3 years I had the car after that and a few years the next owner had it as well
  15. And never look back! pedal is effortless.
  16. Transmission and Clutch replacement 79-95 V8 Mustangs

    Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.

    1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe. I use some very tall jackstands that I bought for my wife’s SUV to get enough clearance. To get the trans out when using a transmission jack, you will need 22”-25” clearance.
    2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
    3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
    4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
    5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
    6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
    7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
    8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.

    Steps 9-21 are for rear main engine oil seal, clutch removal and replacement.
    9.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
    10.Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
    11.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
    12.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
    13.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
    14.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
    15.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required. A pair of drywall screws carefully screwed into the metal part of the seal will enable you to pull it out. Use some acetone & swabs to clean out the place where the old seal fit. Coat the outer metal shell with silicone gasket maker prior to installing it. Use a seal driver or the old seal to drive the new seal in place.
    16.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
    17.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
    18.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
    19. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
    20.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
    21.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
    End of clutch replacement steps

    22. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some transmission mount bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
    23.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
    24.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
    25.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
    26.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
    27.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
    28.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
    29.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
    30.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
    31.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
    32.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…

    If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.

    While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. My choice for clutch & quadrant for street use:
    Ford Racing M-7560-A302N - Ford Racing Clutch Kits - Overview - Ford Racing M-7560-A302N king cobra clutch kit $215-$259

    Ford Racing M-6375-B302 - Ford Racing Flywheels - Overview - flywheel, cast iron $92

    New items – the King Cobra clutch kit may not be in stock, so here’s the replacement:

    url]|Throwout+BearingsFord[/url] Racing clutch kit #FMS-M-7560-E302, $25, no throwout bearing included with the kit. Ford Racing throwout bearing FMS-M-7548-A $52.

    The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just a good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

    Using a stock OEM cable and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

    See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
    Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - Cable and quadrant assembly $90
    Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - Steeda firewall adjuster. $40
  17. I think mine is a HD ford. I like it but everyone else who trys to drive the car stalls it. It's pretty tight, I like it, your either in gear or not. Theres like a inch of play. cable clutches. my buddy has a king cobra and I stall his it is really tight