1. I have a 1990 5.0 lx . It has a HCI . I'm looking for a new clutch , my old king cobra is starting to give up the ghost i Just wanted to what all you guys run , I was thinking about a spec stage 1 or maybe a centerforce . any thoughts would be appreciated.
  2. Centerforce DFX .
  3. I had good luck with a ram powergrip. Not so much with a centerforce dual friction
  4. i have an act at the moment...no complaints....
  5. Stick with what was working and quite I my self would never put a spec unit in anything
  6. Had good luck with Spec, terrible luck with Centerforce. I actually really like the King Cobra for basic HCI cars. Hard to beat it for smoothness and pedal effort. If you got good life out of your last Kin Cobra, I would go with another one.

  7. The King Cobra is no longer available from Ford Racing . a friend of mine recommended the Spec .
  8. There are aftermarket copies available. Can't say that they won't have Chinese parts, but that's a risk you take with almost any clutch. I have been using Spec clutches for a long time. They make all their own pressure plates and disks for their higher end models, but the stage one uses a factory pressure plate. They most likely are getting that pressure plate from a second source supplier. You could always call and ask.

  9. what about the stage 2 ?
  10. I'm honestly not sure. Call them up and ask. They have great customer service. The pressure plate used has a lot to do with disk thickness. If the disk has a different thickness than stock, then they have to use a different pressure plate. I have never used anything less than a Stage 3. It may not be necessary for you to spend that kind of money. The Stage 3 is a little grabby too. We use Spec clutches here because they have great customer service and quick turn around times. I do a little work for a few high hp cars, and those kind of cars don't always wear out clutches, they brake them. If we have a Spec disk that brakes a rivet in the hub or something like that, I can usually send the disk out, get it fixed for around $50 and have it back in the car by the end of the week. A lot of the other clutch builders insist on you dropping $500+ on a new clutch every time something brakes on it.

  11. i had the king cobra and replaced it last fall with fms 10.5 - 10 spline part m-7560-a302n also mm quadrant and cable.... it is smooth as silk

    summit descrip:
    "Ford Racing clutch kits are set up to give you more capacity. They can handle 40 to 50 percent (or more) greater torque than the stock units. Their pressure plates are made from nodular iron, their clutch discs have a sprung hub for shock absorption and smooth operation, and they are made slightly thinner for quicker release.`"

    had a local speed shop do it though cause my car's too low to get up on ramps....
  12. That has got to be the worst excuse I have ever heard.

  13. wow didnt know it was a big deal...done my fair share of clutches.... jack stands and gravel are deadly... nothing to prove here... i and many folks like his work... its a good clutch and thats what op was asking
  14. Got a King Cobra here too, ...hard to beat that DD smoothness it has.
  15. I ran a spec II for a while. It was a great clutch. Just be aware, they use high load pressure plates and are very "grabby". I think it was rated for over 500 pounds of torque. Your stock t5 will most likely give up before the clutch does.

  16. I was just messing with you man. Sometimes it's just not worth the hassle.

  17. Don't want to hijack the thread, but hopefully my question is on topic enough. About to have no choice but to put a clutch in mine as well. Probably going with the Ford Racing stuff.

    Local shop is quoting $380 - $425 for labor, me supplying the parts. Does that sound within reason?

    Thanks in advance.
  18. @ $400 it would be rougjly $60\hr for close to 7 hrs of work.
  19. yeah that is what I have paid in the past, make sure you get a new FORD TOB last thing you need is a squeaker after all that work
  20. That's about right. It depends on what they get done. I always recommend doing a rear main seal, changing the pilot bearing, and getting the flywheel resurfaced or replaced. Preferably resurfaced.