Electrical New Momo, No spark

So I cant remove plugs, and will. Use the finger ot small stick thing. Im a little concerned about the eleven O position. Not any more tech than that. Should I be concerned upon start.....as in bent pushrods....... I thought 1st piston was behind alternator. Thanks Im doing this tomorrow.Tuesday @ 3 pm
 
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#1 on the cap is around the 1 or 2 o'clock position with the distributer installed, the rotor will move clock wise as the distributer drops in, that's why you point the rotor before the 12 o'clock position, sometimes you have to stab it in a couple times to get the rotor to point to #1. remember it has to engage the oil pump drive shaft too so you may need to wiggle it around.
 
Almost there , I put the distributor in TDC included piston #1 at top and timing at what I believe zero. ore my mechanics mark. I turned the key and got a huge backfire. And a huge spark yahhhhhh. Question is am I semi right so far and if my timing is off because I set it at zero. Which way should I turn. Or start over at 10 deg... Thanks without the no start checklist Id be out hundreds. Also my rotor is right on #1.......The mechanic made a hairline crack around the edge of the dizzy tell me thats ok
 
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

Revised 28-Apr-2018 to add photo & description of the SPOUT connector and SPOUT jumper .

You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.

Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.



Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.

Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT jumper
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It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT. The SPOUT (Spark Out) enables the computer to control the spark advance. When the SPOUT is removed, the ignition timing reverts to the base ignition timing set by either the spark rod inside the distributor or the physical position of the distributor.

Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.
Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

attachments\51122
 
This may have nothing to do with your car but I'm just letting you know what I ran into once. I got a balancer that had identical timing marks on each side (two places) 180 degrees apart. I had never seen one like that and wasn't paying close enough attention and got it on the back side marks. I got the boom as well. Almost had to change clothes! Just something to check while you are there. You'll get it. Hang in there and follow that excellent step by step above. I read the whole thing...lol. It's dead on accurate.
 
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Look at your balancer, there are hash marks on it, you may have to clean it off with brake cleaner or something similar, it should have a 0 at one of the hash marks, this is TDC, you may need a magnifying glass to see it clearly. I coat the area with white paint and take a pin and scratch the 0, 10 and 12 and even the 14 hash marks so it will be easier to see when you set the timing. The #1 piston should be at the top of its stroke, and both valves closed. To make sure start by rotating the engine and when you feel air pushing out, then while you are rotating the engine by hand stick a screw driver in the spark plug hole a feel the piston move up, when it stops moving up the balancer should be at 0, you may have to turn the engine back and forth to get the actual TDC on the PISTON, this is important because this will show you if your balancer is good and not spun.
Stab the distributor in the way it was explained and it should start with no hiccups, then you can set the timing per previous instructions. Take your time, no matter how many times I have done this I still have got it 180° out many times.
 
towed the car to the garage. I had the distributor at 180 off. Im real nervous about the mechanic. Hes new at this garage. He insisted that my car had a motor transplant because my car had four lugs. I told him thats what foxes have. Then he lectured me that he was certified and knew best. Then he told me that I had a upgraded cam. because my idle was lumpy. Im the second owner and I know its original. Then he started on me that I have my plug wires wrong. I dont think he knows the firing order is different. Next I asked him about the spout, he he put me in my place again. Hes got lots of time in this car and the owner of the garage is on vacation. Im going to have to deal with the owner when I get a big bill. The guy is going at it like I would by replacing parts. It had a perfect idle when it went down and he cant get the idle right. I hate having to get my cars worked on
 
towed the car to the garage. I had the distributor at 180 off. Im real nervous about the mechanic. Hes new at this garage. He insisted that my car had a motor transplant because my car had four lugs. I told him thats what foxes have. Then he lectured me that he was certified and knew best. Then he told me that I had a upgraded cam. because my idle was lumpy. Im the second owner and I know its original. Then he started on me that I have my plug wires wrong. I dont think he knows the firing order is different. Next I asked him about the spout, he he put me in my place again. Hes got lots of time in this car and the owner of the garage is on vacation. Im going to have to deal with the owner when I get a big bill. The guy is going at it like I would by replacing parts. It had a perfect idle when it went down and he cant get the idle right. I hate having to get my cars worked on
I don't understand why you had a problem getting the distributor back in correctly. The procedure I posted is textbook perfect, and if you had followed it to the letter, you would have gotten it correct the first time.
 
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I did it over and over with your advice done correct. When the guy was explaining to me it was off 180 he said the rotor can go 2 ways. I thought what I was getting wrong was the advanced timing. I had it right so I dont know The rotor only fits on the peg one way that I can tell. With all the articles here I was able to really move ahead thats why my dissapointment will be high because I was feeling good about my wotk. This guy is gonna have three hours $300.00 bucks minimum. Im not convinced he knows how to diagnose.TBS, or AiC we will see.......I want my car back havnt driven it in a month. My wife is starting the sell it crap.
 
The Momo story is over. I went to pick up the car, and the bill was only $100 bucks. I back the car up and it stalls. Sounds like it has a monster cam in it. Im driving it home thinking now I have to bring this to a real shop..Barely wants to go idles really bad. I get it in the garage and leave it there for a while to think. I look at the bill and its for a distributor install and timing with other small stuff. I start it open the hood and hear hissing. The big vacuum hose under the manifold was off. The guy didnt see it or hear it. I had a new one in the garage hooked it up and perfect. The only problem is the guy timed it with the hose off I think. Now I have to do it , its off just a little. Well I figured the post might as well be finished. Once again it was the PIP and now it has a very strong spark. Back driving my baby. Next project is going to paint the manifold with that Eastwood aluminum finish paint . That look is so good. And maybe the valve covers ford blue
 
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