New Mustang Owner

retorque the intake following the proper torque sequence (google it) and I would definitely snug up the water pump, timing cover, and header bolts...header bolts especially like to work loose on a new motor
Yeah I thought that I had heard a leaky manifold gasket the other day I had the same issue on the ranger I had built up manifold bolts kept walking free damn things
 
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from what you posted, looks like a budget build car that although won't be a high HP car, should be a fun car, assuming it was assembled properly. You don't know what compression the engine is or what type of pistons, rings, bearing, etc. Who built the engine, If a professional, there should be a build sheet and receipts, As the motor only has a few hundred miles on it, did the owner tell you what oil he put in it and if he did the initial oil change? Regardless, I would be changing the oil to whatever you plan on running in it going forward along with an FL1A or Wix filter, I would also cut open the existing filter to examine it for any signs of metal. I would also go over every nut and bolt possible on the motor and make sure they are all properly torqued. as they can loosen during the first heat cycles and miles. I would also check the coolant to make sure it is properly filled and no signs of any mechanical issues. Since it is a carb, you should also recheck the idle, fast idle, and mixture settings. Last, pull the plugs and see how they look.
 
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from what you posted, looks like a budget build car that although won't be a high HP car, should be a fun car, assuming it was assembled properly. You don't know what compression the engine is or what type of pistons, rings, bearing, etc. Who built the engine, If a professional, there should be a build sheet and receipts, As the motor only has a few hundred miles on it, did the owner tell you what oil he put in it and if he did the initial oil change? Regardless, I would be changing the oil to whatever you plan on running in it going forward along with an FL1A or Wix filter, I would also cut open the existing filter to examine it for any signs of metal. I would also go over every nut and bolt possible on the motor and make sure they are all properly torqued. as they can loosen during the first heat cycles and miles. I would also check the coolant to make sure it is properly filled and no signs of any mechanical issues. Since it is a carb, you should also recheck the idle, fast idle, and mixture settings. Last, pull the plugs and see how they look.
What oil would you recommend in a engine like this? I have a build sheet I believe everything was copyed to the original Craigslist post off the paper in the pictures I attached clevite h series bearings unless that's not what you were referring to? Absolutely a very fun car to drive for sure compared to my last 5.0
 
If your car has ac, don't remove it. You gain little to nothing by doing so. I tell this story to people. My friend ripped all his ac stuff out for no reason. He said his car was a "race car" and race cars don't need ac. We have no track here, it was his daily driver. After a few months he needed to sell the car. Every call inquiring about the car went like this. "Does the ac work?" Nope. Click! Don't do it. My best advice I can give followed closely by don't ever do underwrite pullies.
 
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If your car has ac, don't remove it. You gain little to nothing by doing so. I tell this story to people. My friend ripped all his ac stuff out for no reason. He said his car was a "race car" and race cars don't need ac. We have no track here, it was his daily driver. After a few months he needed to sell the car. Every call inquiring about the car went like this. "Does the ac work?" Nope. Click! Don't do it. My best advice I can give followed closely by don't ever do underwrite pullies.
Ahh yeah that does make sense I'll just leave it in then if I ever part ways with the car then maybe someone will like the ac aspect of it
 
What oil would you recommend in a engine like this? I have a build sheet I believe everything was copyed to the original Craigslist post off the paper in the pictures I attached clevite h series bearings unless that's not what you were referring to? Absolutely a very fun car to drive for sure compared to my last 5.0

What type of oil to run is a complicated question and will range from 5w-30 guy to the 10w-30 crowd. I would say run the either but ensure at minimum its a partial synthetic or full synthetic.

Not going to get into the hydrodynamics excuse of what i run but its 15w-40 Diesel oil that no one has ever probably heard of (Wolfs head).

Just run a good quality oil and filter and dont venture below 5w-30 imo.
 
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normally you run whataver oil the engine builder recommends
i run rotella 15-40 in my fox body cars for the lst 20 years ,,,, yes its an oil made for "diesel" engines... and i always laugh when the parts monkey asks what car I am putting it in.. lo
 
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What type of oil to run is a complicated question and will range from 5w-30 guy to the 10w-30 crowd. I would say run the either but ensure at minimum its a partial synthetic or full synthetic.

Not going to get into the hydrodynamics excuse of what i run but its 15w-40 Diesel oil that no one has ever probably heard of (Wolfs head).

Just run a good quality oil and filter and dont venture below 5w-30 imo.
Wolfs head is all I've used in my truck, hard to find down here,
Yes, in the stang too,
Thank you amazon prime.
 
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Hey all back again.. Sadly not with very good news.. Did my oil change the other day.. Ran Mobil 1 10 w 30 synthetic in it.. Check for any metal found none even in the filter nothing.. Today on my way home I noticed a odd noise on excelleration sounds to me like some top end noise.. Seems to be coming under the valve cover.. Maybe something had come loose..? Sounds like a tapping noise.. Hopefully its not in the bottom end.. Won't be able to check into it for a few days due to work..
 
Pull the valve covers and check your rockers. If any one of them are loose that would be your noise and then you would need to determine the cause. If they are all tight then further inspection will be needed. Can you post a video of the engine running so we can hear the noise?
 
Yeah I'll do a video tomorrow before I head I to work.. What would cause a rocker to become loose..? Amy ideas?
Were you beating on it right before the noise started? High rpm spirited driving? Could be a broken valve spring, bad lifter, push rod, etc....Lots of things could've caused it including random part failure. I would not start the car again until you pull both valve covers and inspect the valve train. You can pull the spark plugs and rotate the crank with a breaker bar if need be.
 
I did a highway pull about 45 mins before any noise began.. 4th gear pull up to 120mph let off the gas at about 5500 to 5800 rpm.. I have a msd rev chip for 6k anyways. But after that it was just normal driving cruising home around 3k to 3500 rpm. Stopped got gas left no noise drove to NY home town pry 30 mins away stopped at a stop light and took off ( normal lol ) and I heard the noise
 
And what's the max rpm I should ever take that anyways..? I have good power off the line but once I hit 4 k it snapps open like a rocket.. Not sure if that's got so thing to do with the holley 680 carb or if its something else?