New Shop Project Track Car (progress Thread)

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
I know it's an 85 SVO buuuut, I am posting it here bc it is getting a built 4.62v with spray.

Plans for the car:
Full suspension, built (forged pistons, rods, crank and stud girdle on the bottom end) 4.6 2v with 200 shot, built tranny. caged, mini tubed, 29" tall tires, lexan windows, fiberglass hood, fenders, doors and hatch, elect water pump, manual brakes, manual steering rack, solid steering shaft, sheet metal (aluminum interior), and minimal wiring.

Already have:
4.6 K member, fox control arms, SN95 spindles and front brakes, offset rack bushings, MM full length sub frame connectors, NHRA approved battery box, Strange adjustable struts, coil over conversion for the front.

Built and ported 5.4 heads with titanium valves, stronger springs, nitrous cams, ported Typhoon intake, 75mm throttle body, Kooks mid length headers, pulleys, BBK aluminum valve covers

built tranny, 3000rpm stall

Best part is...I got the car for FREE.
I think that's all for now...

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flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
I have had a couple people get one to me about chopping up such a rare Mustang but, it already has no interior, motor tranny or wiring so, why the hell not. Once I am done with this VW motor swap in my shop I will get started and start posting up pics.
 

Kornnut

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
1,990
45
108
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Tulsa
Tell them to trade you another body if they get uppity about the svo. I would keep the four eye dash. Lot less to :leghump: with.
 

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
If I'm replacing every inch of wiring in this car, along with a 2V motor and matching auto, I will have less issues with gauges working ect. Besides, it's still cheaper than a custom gauge set up.
 

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
Edited original post.

I ordered manual steering rack yesterday and should have it today or tomorrow. I am going with some good NAPA SN95 outer tie rod ends to match up to the SN spindles that I have. Once I get the manual brake conversion, master cylinder and fixed race c/c plates I am going to start on the tear down of what's left of the car and get to work.

Lastly, I found out that the heads that I have are 5.4 heads out of a Harley F150.

More pics to come soon.
 

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
Update:
I have all the front suspension parts in. The list includes:

UPR SN95 K member
UPR Fox control arms with no sway bar mounting tabs
UPR front coil over conversion kit
Strange single adjustable struts
UPR caster/camber plates
SN95 front spindles with calipers
Flaming River manual steering rack
UPR offset rack bushings
OEM SN95 outer tie rod ends
Flaming River solid steering shaft
Maximum Motorsports full length sub frame connectors

Now, time to start saving up for the rear suspension.

I'll post up some pics soon
 

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
Also, swapping the mid length headers to long tubes. I scored a set of BBK long tubes for $80 at the swap meet and matching H pipe for $30. Going to use my Sniper tuner on it as well since I still have another car spot available on the tuner.
 

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
134
94
SE Georgia
I got the Typhoon as part of a package deal of parts that I bought (along with the heads, built tranny, intake, lots more for cheap). I knew the guy and he was moving and was desperate for money so, I threw out a number I thought he wouldn't go for. Lol, I almost had to eat my words when he agreed without hesitating.

So, those cams are going on a set of Harley F1505.4 heads that have been ported, titanium valves and stronger valve springs, the Typhoon intake that has been ported, stock upper elbow that has been ported and a 75mm throttle body, larger fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator. I'm trying to decide what size injectors to run.

I will be running forged pistons, stock length forged rods, forged crank and a stud girdle/main brace on the bottom.

Lastly, how do Cobra forged cranks hold up? I have a lead on a good used one that checked out ok.