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Discussion in '2010 - 2014 Specific Tech' started by jamccoy89, Jul 24, 2012.
Ya right on that frpp junk bro. You must be on a Honda forum.
I dunno if its fact but on the thread under this one, ( i think it says something about FRPP) the creator of that thread said it added 60 lb/ft @ 1500 I havent confirmed those number myself but thats why I created this thread- I want peoples opinions/ confirmed results so I can make an educated decision.
Nothing else is done to the car. My next steps are suspension and a shifter. And I'm with everyone else suggesting MGW. That is who I will be going with. Well worth the extra money.
I agree-the MGW shifter is impressive and I actually already ordered it yesterday. The guy there told me it takes about a month to get it ready and that if before it ships decide its not the right time for it you can cancel your order without losing a dime. So that itself shows the demand for the item
How in the world would you get that much power at 1.5k. That's the dumbest thing I have ever read.
The link above which comes directly from fordracing.com is where this info came from.
Fits 2011-2013 Mustang GT
For 2005-2009 Mustang GT see M-FR1-MGT, for 2010 Mustang GT see M-FR1-MGTA
Approximate peak increase of 16 hp and 7 lb-ft on 93 octane fuel
Up to 60 lb-ft increase at 1500 rpm!
Eliminates "skip-shift" on manual transmission applications
Bullet #4 contradicts #3. I'd believe #3 more.
To me doing the research & learning about the car is half the fun. It also gives a good excuse to get out & meet other Mustang people. So far I've only decided on the MGW shifter and Roush axle-backs + BBK X-Pipe. After that, still on the information hunt.
No it doesn't. #3 refers to the PEAK numbers where as #4 refers to 1500 rpm specifically. Meaning at peak numbers, there is a 7 lb-ft difference, but at 1500 rpms, there is as much as a 60 lb-ft difference. It's all in the wording.
This is what I was trying to explain. This means that if you buy the FRPP you will have some killer low end torque but at higher rpms not much change. I think ima go with the Steeda CAI+ Tune and the BOSS Intake Manifold. This setup seems to be the most benificial for daily driving and the occasional test n tune track night. Thanks for all the feedback.
is it better to go with the staggered shelby gt500 wheels and tires or the brembo package 19" wheels and tires?
Ah, missed that. Reading comprehension...
honestly, its better to go with whatever wheel/tire combo you like the best. it's your car so you should buy what you like.
I like both wheels but I was thinking the Shelby wheels have a bigger rear rim and thought maybe it would help put more HP to the ground but after pricing the tires for the shelbys and not being able to rotate the tires due to the stagger size, I think I will just stick with the brembo wheels/tires
I've got the MGW shifter on my 2012, best money spent on the car. I'm looking at the steeda cai & tune as well. I'm not going for the boss intake though - you will lose some low end torque/power (and it's beyond my budget).
American Racing headers are what Ford put on the Cobra Jet, so they must be worth it. they claim a 40 hp increase.
As for the stagger it depends on what you want out of the car - I have the brembo package, so same suspension & tires you currently have. I don't want the stagger personally because the car tends toward understeer at the limit already, and a stagger would make it worse. But if you just want to go in a straight line, a stagger will help put more power to the ground.
I love the MGW shifter and I changed the fluid in the transmission and the rear end at 1000 miles, the transmission shifts very easily. I'm leaning towards the Borla S-type, but I keep coming back to the MRT axle-backs. Decisions, decisions...
I did a little more research on the staggered wheels and I think that its going to be too expensive.. they wear so quickly because you cant rotate and they do cause understeer so I agree with you there.
I also looked into the Headers and from what I saw the 5.0 GT only gains about 10-15 HP and I would be too tempted to replace the entire exhaust if I went with headers$$$
The Boss intake manifold DOES take away from the lower RPM torque but you have to look at it from all angles. When you are about to run with someone you arent taking off at 1500 RPM. I personally leave the line at about 2400 and the boss manifold will increase your pull between 2.8k-6.9k RPM and it increases your top end to 7.3k RPM. With a CAI and tune from steeda and the BOSS intake manifold I would say my power band should be from 2600-6800 RPM and with good shifting theres no reason the car wouldnt run in the high 11.80s low 11.90s in the quarter. Thanks for your feedback though. everytime someone makes a commetn it makes me check into the details even mroe and helps answer the questions I have so thanks again.
Let me know if I can get you that Steeda CAI & SCT X3 tuner with Steeda custom tuning.
This by itself may be true but you need to check with these guys:
... about their CAI and Tuning package. 30 HP and TQ at the bottom end (where you drive when you're on the street)... Do the numbers on the HP per dollar and see what you think.
To my knowledge, they're the only ones so far that have done their own dyno to see what the outcome is.
FLOWMASTER AM. THUNDER! I have those axle-backs, and love them. I love the cars that SOUND great, but are not extremely loud. These have the best deep throaty rumble, sound great when you get on it, but do not pop and crack. These sound great in the car, then when you get out of the car or walk around back...I melt. But exhaust is your choice, it is all about what pleases your ears.