Digital Tuning New To Mustangs. 5.0 Sn95 Running Rich.

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by SnowRocker88, Apr 10, 2012.

  1. I agree about the code reader. My problem is with the Haynes manual. I'm old enough to remember getting Chilton manuals when I first started driving and what was great about them is they'd show you how to do EVERYTHING. But not Haynes, a lot of things they tell you are "beyond the scope of the home mechanic" lol. Still they do offer some good diagrams but all the useful info they offer you can get at
  2. Thanks for the link! Yea, I'm all about letting the ECU tell me what's wrong with the car...I learned this early on. I didn't realize OBDI readers were that cheap.
    I actually agree with this. I had the Haynes for my Explorer back in the day and it was very hit-and-miss. It would have detailed pictures of the dumbest and simplest things then would just have a one-sentence step for something difficult. Example: It shows where to take bolts out of the transmission then says 'disconnect quick-disconnect line for clutch'. Doesn't say where or how or anything like that. I was 16 years old and it took me like a week to figure out what it was telling me to do. Not a fan of Haynes. lol
  3. The point I wanted to make was that a manual, be it a Haynes, Chilton, Ford Service, etc, along with the code reader, are a must have. If anyone is interested in the Ford CD version send me a PM.
  4. Point taken. I may have to get that Ford manual from you. I know having the Toyota manual for my MR2 has saved me TONS.

    UPDATE: I got my odometer gear in (as well as a new headlight switch. Haven't installed my coolant temp sender yet but it's next) averaged my fuel after 63 miles or so and it came out to 12.7MPG. This is all city with a decent amount of red lights and some aggressive driving so I'm going to say it's right on for not being tuned up in IDK how long. O2 sensors, plugs, wires, cap and rotor and clean the K&N filter and I'm sure she'll be back up to spec (if she isn't now). I appreciate all the help guys. I guess this just means I have a faulty fuel sender. :/
  5. Nah, it just means you drive a Ford. It's probably not faulty.
  6. It fluctuates tho. By like 1/8th a that normal? If I replace the fuel pump (eventually) would it be worth the trouble to get a new sender too?
  7. Sure, you can replace it while you have the tank down if you want.
  8. I did change my temp sender btw and it reads the same. I guess the previous owner put a VERY cold thermostat in there. I'm going to swap it for a 190-195 soon.
  9. If you have turn downs, you are going to smell fuel. The MR2 is different because regardless of where it empties out, it's behind the passenger compartment. You don't happen to have a cold air kit on your car do you? Those cold air kits can really mess with the MAF.

    I had an MR2 also. That car was a ton of fun. Stock for stock could beat a Mustang every time, and 33mpg on the highway.

    I'm blown away by my new engine. It aces emissions, and so far it seems to be sipping the gas. Although I don't have a hard number on consumption yet.

  10. Na, no CAI. It does have a Vortech MAF housing though. Not sure of the size. I noticed it when cleaning the MAF sensor itself. The sticker on it said "Max Flow".

    Yea, my MR2 is actually getting an aluminum V6. Same stock HP as the turbo but more torque...should be a ton of fun. As far as the mustang goes. The mileage isn't bad but the temp is def low which I'm not a fan of. I've ordered a thermostat as well as dizzy cap and rotor and a few other tune-up items. She should be right soon. I did notice I have an intake leak at the PCV connection on the intake elbow. That partially explains the slightly irregular idle. I'm pretty sure the EGR system is screwed (capped on the header, pipe was cut and pinched shut...real ghetto rigged) and I have an exhaust leak on that side of the engine so I'm guessing the plug is a FUBAR job as well. Ugh, people... :/