Drivetrain New To Stangs, Need Help Diagnosing Aod Problem!

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Skyler Barnes, Jun 14, 2013.

  1. hey everyone, im Skyler, just picked up a 95 5.0 auto convertible with powerdyne supercharger for cheap because it needed a new transmission,my first mustang experience, it would go in reverse and not other gerars, did a quick burnout in reverse, stall converter gripped great. i picked up a rebuilt tranny and swapped it in. got it mostly together, started it up and had an awful metal scraping noise...flex plates weight was scraping the shroud:dammit: ...transmission back off, new flexplate, put it all back together...scraping gone, but still wouldnt move :bang: &$^#@..., yes it is full on fluid. car came with a 2500 stall converter, new transmission came with new torque converter, i used the stall converter the car came with instead, positive it is on all the way, so im assuming that its bad.(btw first time putting it all back together forgot to add fluid to it after emptying it mostly out:doh:never put it in gear with scraping sound and never ran it long, added a quart of fluid before installing it second time) but first start up of the day for past 3 days, the car will go into gear and drive for a short distance beautifully, then back to nothing. dropping the tranny again tomorrow maybe, but if anyone has ideas on other things i could check first it would be much appreciated! if not, 3rd times the charm!
  2. How many quarts of fluid did you end up adding? I believe the capacity is somewhere around 13
  3. likely way low on fluid
  4. Unfortunatly the tranny came mostly full fluid, i got it from a reputable parts guy and he said it was rebuilt and installed on a car for testing. I added a couple quarts and in park at cold temp the fluid shows up halfway on warm temp. You do test in park right?
  5. once again, i start it up this morning, put it in drive, took off with no hesitation, drove around, held down brakes, took off again, put it in park, put it back into gear...then nothing, fluid absoluetly shows full on the stick
  6. Gosh, I'm so sorry you have such terrible luck. There is no way around it, the transmission is definately the problem. I would go back to the reputable transmission guy and tell him what's going on. At this point it sounds like there is just something sticking in the valve body.

  7. Update. I let it sit for a couple more hours today, started it again, drove, reverse, parked.....back in to gear and away she goes, drove around gently for a few minutes, then launched, took off strong and is working fine. Somthing was sticking, now its not, fluid seems to finally be circulating around, hopefully there wont be future issues because of whatever problem there was. Next question, i live in a no deq area, and o2 sensors are above the cats, can I simply cut them out and weld in straight pipe and be ready to go?? Sounds too easy
  8. Removing the O2 sensors will throw a check engine light, and cause a rise in fuel consumption. There is no incentive to remove them. The O2 sensors are part of the engine management system, not an emission control device. Or are you saying you want to remove the cats only? If you just want to remove the cats the easiest way is to get an off road intermediary pipe, more commonly referred to as an offroad H-pipe. You can usually find a great deal on a used one because so many people start out with an off road H-pipe and then swap to a longtube header later on and have to buy a new exhaust setup. It is almost always cheaper and easier to do this then to weld on the stock pipe. Heck, new they aren't that much money.|Model:Mustang&hash=item43bbd339cb&vxp=mtr

  9. Yes i meant i want to remove the cats, and thank you i will keep an eye out for that setup! If i can find a cheap used one i'll go for it for convenience but i have my own welding business with an exhaust bender and get tube for a buck a foot. If i find myself with spare time soon ill dig in to in to that
  10. It depends I guess. Usually the stock tubing is so old the metal has detiorated where you have to clean it up so much to weld it's not worth the hassle. The stock H-pipe is also 2.25" and has a lot of funny kinks in it, so it's not that great for performance. The flares on the ends also restrict too much on the stock H-pipe. There is a definite performance gain in going with an aftermarket H-pipe over just rewelding the stock one. That performance gain will be even more pronounced if you do other mods like cylinder heads.