Newbie Question: 1968 289 Starting Issues

[turboki]

Hey guys,

A few months ago I bought my first classic 68 mustang that is in great shape, but I have been having some starting issues and I want to see if anyone can help me out.

First, the car has trouble starting in the morning. It cranks over for about 5-10 seconds before firing up, and then I need to keep it revved up a bit or it dies. After a few minutes its completely fine and runs great. The rest of the day it starts up immediately, but the next morning, same issues again. Is this normal?

Second, I had to go on a business trip for a few weeks and had no one to watch my car. I got back last weekend and wanted to take it out for a spin, but it would not start. It kept turning over, but no start. The battery has plenty of juice and I replaced the starter a couple of months ago so I know its not that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[2+2GT]

Seems likely that the choke is badly adjusted or not operating at all. Do you have the factory service manual? Are the steel tubes for the choke missing or rusted off at the manifold?

 

[tx65coupe]

I think 2+2GT is correct. It sounds to me like the choke is not engaging.

Did you ever get it to start again? I don't know if you are familiar with older carbed cars. They do not behave the same as EFI. Try pumping the pedal while its cranking.

 

[streetstang67]

Try adjusting the idle mixture screws on the carb; screw them all the way in (counting how many turns just for reference) then screw them out 1.5 turns. Depending on your carb, there are either 2 of these screws or 4 of them. Search for a picture of them if your not sure which screws they are.

Its more likely that the choke is out of whack, but if the idle mixture screws aren't adjusted properly, it will cause hard starting.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've got one question.....................Got Points? (in the distributor?) If it does, that's more likely your problem. Ditch the points, do a complete tune up (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, replace the points with a drop in electronic unit and a hotter coil. Advance the timing to around 12*BTDC. Once you do all that, you can likely remove the choke from the carb, it won't be needed except on the coldest mornings. Having to baby the throttle a few minutes is normal for a carbed engine. Doing what I listed here can eliminate the babying on all but the coldest mornings.

 

[turboki]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I took a look and the entire cleaner housing is rusted through on the bottom so Im going to replace it. The ignition system seemed fine before hand and I did not have time to take it apart yet, but if need be I'll replace the bits. I want to keep the car as original as possible so electronic units are out of question. Unfortunately I have not been able to get it going again and I did try the pumping the gas pedal.

 

[turboki]

Followup question...do you guys know where I could find an air cleaner housing for a 68 289? I called a few places and they all have 66-67 housings but nothing for a 68.

 

[D.Hearne]

Ebay. And you can replace the points with an electronic unit without affecting the distributor's looks. Pertronix units were made for this. Most of the other similar uints are as well. Nothing worse than having a nice classic car that won't start because the points are wet, out of adjustment, condensor's bad, and many other causes related to points ignitions. With what's out there today, there's no reason to run points, short of a nuclear blast in the atmosphere causing an EMP spike.

 

[1992MustangGT]

Ebay. And you can replace the points with an electronic unit without affecting the distributor's looks. Pertronix units were made for this. Most of the other similar uints are as well. Nothing worse than having a nice classic car that won't start because the points are wet, out of adjustment, condensor's bad, and many other causes related to points ignitions. With what's out there today, there's no reason to run points, short of a nuclear blast in the atmosphere causing an EMP spike.

Another option instead of intalling an electronic distributor is to get rid of the points and install an Ignitor. It's an electronic setup that replaces your points. You don't have to change distributors, just put in the Ignitor where the points should be. Then you will have the original distributor and no one will be any wiser. Ignitors run about $70 or so, depending on where you get it from.

 

[turboki]

Another option instead of intalling an electronic distributor is to get rid of the points and install an Ignitor. It's an electronic setup that replaces your points. You don't have to change distributors, just put in the Ignitor where the points should be. Then you will have the original distributor and no one will be any wiser. Ignitors run about $70 or so, depending on where you get it from.

That sounds like a compromise I would be willing to live with. I really want to keep this car as original as possible. I found this Mustang Parts and Accessories that would work. Now I just have to figure out which one I need (single or dual point).

 

[1992MustangGT]

That sounds like a compromise I would be willing to live with. I really want to keep this car as original as possible. I found this Mustang Parts and Accessories that would work. Now I just have to figure out which one I need (single or dual point).

Mustang's Unlimited has the Ignitor cheaper than California Mustang. They have one on there that fits 1957 to 1974 Ford V8's (part # 1281) for $68.95 as compared to $80 at California Mustang. Log onto their website and type in "ignitor" in the search window. They have a bunch of different ones on there, but you'll see the one I'm talking about. That one will work for your application.

 

[D.Hearne]

Another option instead of intalling an electronic distributor is to get rid of the points and install an Ignitor. It's an electronic setup that replaces your points. You don't have to change distributors, just put in the Ignitor where the points should be. Then you will have the original distributor and no one will be any wiser. Ignitors run about $70 or so, depending on where you get it from.

Pertronix makes your "ignitor"

 

[tx65coupe]

I've got one question.....................Got Points? (in the distributor?) If it does, that's more likely your problem. Ditch the points, do a complete tune up (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, replace the points with a drop in electronic unit and a hotter coil. Advance the timing to around 12*BTDC. Once you do all that, you can likely remove the choke from the carb, it won't be needed except on the coldest mornings. Having to baby the throttle a few minutes is normal for a carbed engine. Doing what I listed here can eliminate the babying on all but the coldest mornings.

I didn't even think of that, but points could be part of the problem too.

I agree with getting rid of the points. The Pertronix Ignitor is a nice little part.

 

[woodsnake]

The whole reason people can still get away with driving old cars is because of the improved components that we retro fit on the old technology.

An upgraded modern ignition is one of the best investments you can make to enjoy driving the old car. It will start easier, run better, use less fuel and have more power.

Also, if you haven't had the engine apart, and it has original "high" mileage,

CHANGE THE TIMING GEAR SET. And, have a good look at the harmonic balancer.

And, get a vacuum gauge and a decent timing light.