Newly Purchased 1986 LX 5.0

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Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower
Jan 12, 2020
635
465
73
I’m not sure if there’s a way to test them, but generally it will throw a code 41 or 91. Atleast that’s what mine did. Did you follow the surging idle checklist in order? Since this thread is getting pretty lengthy it may be beneficial to make a summary of what you’ve done so far.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
39,465
15,317
224
Thank God for ASE
It was them that pushed OBD2 so hard so it is easier for all makes and all independent shops now
Ford and BMW were the worst offenders when it came to special tools that cost a fortune
Nothing has changed
You want to get serious with new Fords as an independent
Its about 10-50k a month for the tools and a satellite link to Detroit last I heard
Thank God for OBD2
Replace the windshield in a BMW, water leaks on the headlight switch. You replace it
You need to go to them to put the miles back in the new headlight switch with their scan tool (new) VAG I believe
The mileage is stored in the headlight switch which has a expensive module attached wtf
Get ready for more of that


ForScan can do a lot of what the Ford IDS can do. Of course it’s not meant for business use but does enable the home mechanic a lot of ability in terms of servicing a newer ford

I’ve used it to program modules and activate features and such on newer Fords. You can recalibrate various features and run ABS pump cycles among other things. It can’t do everything but it’s impressive what it can do.

When I replaced my steering rack I used it to reprogram the module. Saved me a dealer trip. Also activated navigation and added heated steering wheel and enabled the button on the touchscreen using it. It also lets you view all the module faults and every single PID you can imagine.


Of course…you need to know your way around the software. Not something I see the average Joe Blow doing.
 
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Hardwerk

Member
Apr 21, 2022
21
2
13
I’m not sure if there’s a way to test them, but generally it will throw a code 41 or 91. Atleast that’s what mine did. Did you follow the surging idle checklist in order? Since this thread is getting pretty lengthy it may be beneficial to make a summary of what you’ve done so far.
Yeah, there are no codes at this point. All code 11 (no faults)

When I bought the car they had put in new fuel injectors (no identification markings on them but have organge top and someone up above said they were the right ones). They also pulled the gas tank and empty all of the bad gas out. I bought the car and it was running pretty similar to how it's running now. This was after it sat for an estimated 13 years.

After I bought the car I drug it home. Changed the oil and put in marvel mystery oil. I also changed the brake fluid through the system and bled. Still had brake issues.

At this point I took it to a mechanic. They replaced the proportional valve, said the fuel injectors are probably fine (but didn't run any tests), replaced the water pump, bypassed the heater core (which is leaking and needs to be replaced), and swapped out some coolant hoses to stop some leaks. They got the brakes somewhat working but I still need to replace the brake booster (I believe as it has a soft brake pedal).

I bought the car home and attempted to go through the idle surging checklist. I confirmed .99 on the TPS (adjusted the throttle a bit to get it there) and running about 600 rpms. The IAC seems ok as I start the car without it and it will run like crap. I plug the IAC in and it gets significantly better. So, it's doing something. I turned the timing up a hair to 12 degrees. I also swapped the plugs out with OEM plugs.

I've attempted to go through and verify all of the vacuum lines are connected and no ports are open. I don't know that I've done this 100% because I haven't pulled the hose diagram out and traced each one.

I took a temperature gun to the exhaust manifolds and noticed the passenger bank cylinders were about 50-100 degrees cooler than the drivers side. Someone suggested I swap the injectors so I did that. In the process of swapping the injectors I confirmed the vacuum hoses under the intake and the pcv were connected. I haven't had a chance to get a temperature gun to see if the cooler cyclinders are still on the same bank or if it moved with the injectors.

The car runs better but far from good. There is a small surging at idle and when I drive the car it bogs down when I push the gas pedal until I hit about 1500 RPMS. It still feels a little off but it gets pretty good zip after that. Black smoke comes out of the exhaust and the smell of gas is everywhere. Very rich.

Here is a video of it running currently. For some reason the idle has dropped down to about 500 - 550 and I think I need to turn it up a hair.

Current Running Video
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
23,702
8,760
203
Your car does not have maf
 

Hardwerk

Member
Apr 21, 2022
21
2
13
Your car does not have maf
Yeah, that's the one I went off of. We didn't check the O2 sensors and we'll dive into that today. I was told it would flag a code if they were bad so we skipped that one. We also haven't replaced all of the hoses but have visually checked them. We might need to just replace to be safe.

We've done everything else, though. I think we'll step back through everything one more time just to be safe.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
1,903
537
133
ForScan can do a lot of what the Ford IDS can do. Of course it’s not meant for business use but does enable the home mechanic a lot of ability in terms of servicing a newer ford

I’ve used it to program modules and activate features and such on newer Fords. You can recalibrate various features and run ABS pump cycles among other things. It can’t do everything but it’s impressive what it can do.

When I replaced my steering rack I used it to reprogram the module. Saved me a dealer trip. Also activated navigation and added heated steering wheel and enabled the button on the touchscreen using it. It also lets you view all the module faults and every single PID you can imagine.


Of course…you need to know your way around the software. Not something I see the average Joe Blow doing.
Sounds good to me.
I would like to play with it myself
You 5L5 would get a kick out of playing with my NGS
It's not for everyone either and it has it's limitations as well
In business its use everything and everybody to make it cheaper for the client (then there is some left for you)
Love buying those BMW electric waterpumps cheap and charging a small ton
 

Hardwerk

Member
Apr 21, 2022
21
2
13
Any updates Hardwerk?
I've been out of town for a while so I took it to a mechanic to check out. He's gone through several things (including replacing the CPU etc..) and seems he's onto something now. The vacuum system has about 13 in. He clamps it at the manifold and everything smooths right out. I haven't gone to look at it yet so not sure where he's actually clamping, though. I'm not even sure how the engine creates the vacuum so not sure where to start. As outlined in a previous post I checked the lines 3 times and did smoke tests twice and couldn't find any leaks. I'm wondering however the vacuum is created is the problem rather than it could be leaking. Just not sure yet.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
1,903
537
133
+ 1 on the brake booster leaking and or the one way valve is no good
The one way valve may be no good
Do the easy brake booster test... Which is to...
Jump in the car cold or sitting a while, Press the brake pedal firmly and start the car
The pedal should drop an inch or two indicating a functioning booster