Hello, New to the forum and wondering If I could get some help. 2000 Ford Mustang been sitting for a while with a no start condition. Troubleshoot the problem to a fuel issue it appears that the problem is no power to the fuel pump. ( I know this because I have tested the unit out of the Fuel tank and it appears to work fine) I have been reading that there could also be a problem with the FPDM, CCRM and possible other acronyms. (I'm used to Carburetors and direct line to the fuel tank lol this is like banging your head against the wall to see if it hurts) anyhow can someone help with the proper troubleshooting steps to target which item is the problem. by the way I did call the dealer they really didn't have any idea of these items. they asked be to supply them with part numbers. I have already dropped the tank and I'm a bit hesitant pulling of the right wheel well to get to the CCRM module for the part number. any help would be appreciate.
No Fuel Pressure FPDM,CCRM Trouble
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Confirm fuse F1.14 in the Battery Junction Box. Also confirm Fuse F2.32, F1.26.
Confirm if +12 volts at the IFS switch in the turn with the key on. If no voltage, additional tests will be needed to positively confirm if the CCRM is bad.
Do you have a volt-ohm-meter? Are you willing to use it?
OBTW, the steps for trouble shooting the CCRM and fuel pump are the same for the Gt as V6. I have posted several times. Search for my posts.
OBTW2, your local autoparts store can sell a re-man unit just from the year and engine. Much cheaper than paying dealer $$.
OBTW3, on some V6 models, the CCRM is located on the coolant res.
Confirm if +12 volts at the IFS switch in the turn with the key on. If no voltage, additional tests will be needed to positively confirm if the CCRM is bad.
Do you have a volt-ohm-meter? Are you willing to use it?
OBTW, the steps for trouble shooting the CCRM and fuel pump are the same for the Gt as V6. I have posted several times. Search for my posts.
OBTW2, your local autoparts store can sell a re-man unit just from the year and engine. Much cheaper than paying dealer $$.
OBTW3, on some V6 models, the CCRM is located on the coolant res.
No Fuel Pressure FPDM,CCRM Troubble
Hi wmburns, first I'd like to thank you for your response However I should mention some of the steps I have taken to attempt to troubleshoot this problem before I elected to drop the tank.
Confirm fuse F1.14 in the Battery Junction Box. Also confirm Fuse F2.32, F1.26.
A)>>> checks all fuses under the hood and under the (backbreaking) dash all check fine. This included pulling each fuse visual inspection and checking with a meter.
Confirm if +12 volts at the IFS switch in the turn with the key on. If no voltage, additional tests will be needed to positively confirm if the CCRM is bad. A)>>> the IFS switch has +12VDC to the switch.
Do you have a volt-ohm-meter? Are you willing to use it?
A)>>> yes and absolutely
OBTW, the steps for trouble shooting the CCRM and fuel pump are the same for the Gt as V6. I have posted several times. Search for my posts.
A)>>> yes read some of the post this is why I wanted to confirm my finding. my only confusion are the steps sequence, what do you check first the CCRM or the FPDM?. I have measured voltage between the FPDM power pin and Ground, the voltage reading is above 10.5 VDC according to those findings I should replace the FPDM module. I havn't got to the CCRM yet took me a bit to figure out were it was located however I don't have a good understanding on how to test the CCRM is bad or what test should be performed first.
OBTW2, your local autoparts store can sell a re-man unit just from the year and engine. Much cheaper than paying dealing $$.
A)>>> Checked with three different local auto parts to try to attempt to replace the FPDM module if the part-number stamped on the unit doesn't show up in their computers they don't know what it is. needless to say it doesn't. Next I called the local Ford dealer did not know what a FPDM module is (the Parts Counter) they asked me for the part number after looking it up their computers they informed me that it was a special order item. would you have a recommendation for procuring these items?
Some additional background this all started after I replaced battery. the car was sitting for a while (4-months) the battery always took a charge and the car started right up however the last time the battery DID take a charge started right up but it would not hold a charge meaning dead the next day. the charging system seemed ok (VDC reading 13.4/5 while running) so I replaced the battery after replacing the battery the car never re-started. I should mention that the car is has an aftermarket remote starter which I have disable (with the toggle switch) as a side note I would hear a clicking noise when attempting to start the car with the remote starter if the battery was weak or dead...
I was a bit confused about this problem how can replacing the battery cause this failure thought it was coincidence but seems that it's not this is all somehow related. can it possible be the anti-thief system (Ford installed system) I read some of the post that it could be the chip in the key preventing from it starting is there a test for that? I guess i need to make sure that none of the components CCRM, FPDM fuel pump isn't the problem then I'll move to other things.
aren't you glad you responded to the post
OBTW I did check the fuel rail (no Pressure) and listened for the fuel pump (Didn't kick on when turning the key to the on position) before dropping the fuel tank and bench testing the fuel pump that seems to be ok.
your feedback and response is appreciated.
Hi wmburns, first I'd like to thank you for your response However I should mention some of the steps I have taken to attempt to troubleshoot this problem before I elected to drop the tank.
Confirm fuse F1.14 in the Battery Junction Box. Also confirm Fuse F2.32, F1.26.
A)>>> checks all fuses under the hood and under the (backbreaking) dash all check fine. This included pulling each fuse visual inspection and checking with a meter.
Confirm if +12 volts at the IFS switch in the turn with the key on. If no voltage, additional tests will be needed to positively confirm if the CCRM is bad. A)>>> the IFS switch has +12VDC to the switch.
Do you have a volt-ohm-meter? Are you willing to use it?
A)>>> yes and absolutely
OBTW, the steps for trouble shooting the CCRM and fuel pump are the same for the Gt as V6. I have posted several times. Search for my posts.
A)>>> yes read some of the post this is why I wanted to confirm my finding. my only confusion are the steps sequence, what do you check first the CCRM or the FPDM?. I have measured voltage between the FPDM power pin and Ground, the voltage reading is above 10.5 VDC according to those findings I should replace the FPDM module. I havn't got to the CCRM yet took me a bit to figure out were it was located however I don't have a good understanding on how to test the CCRM is bad or what test should be performed first.
OBTW2, your local autoparts store can sell a re-man unit just from the year and engine. Much cheaper than paying dealing $$.
A)>>> Checked with three different local auto parts to try to attempt to replace the FPDM module if the part-number stamped on the unit doesn't show up in their computers they don't know what it is. needless to say it doesn't. Next I called the local Ford dealer did not know what a FPDM module is (the Parts Counter) they asked me for the part number after looking it up their computers they informed me that it was a special order item. would you have a recommendation for procuring these items?
Some additional background this all started after I replaced battery. the car was sitting for a while (4-months) the battery always took a charge and the car started right up however the last time the battery DID take a charge started right up but it would not hold a charge meaning dead the next day. the charging system seemed ok (VDC reading 13.4/5 while running) so I replaced the battery after replacing the battery the car never re-started. I should mention that the car is has an aftermarket remote starter which I have disable (with the toggle switch) as a side note I would hear a clicking noise when attempting to start the car with the remote starter if the battery was weak or dead...
I was a bit confused about this problem how can replacing the battery cause this failure thought it was coincidence but seems that it's not this is all somehow related. can it possible be the anti-thief system (Ford installed system) I read some of the post that it could be the chip in the key preventing from it starting is there a test for that? I guess i need to make sure that none of the components CCRM, FPDM fuel pump isn't the problem then I'll move to other things.
aren't you glad you responded to the post
OBTW I did check the fuel rail (no Pressure) and listened for the fuel pump (Didn't kick on when turning the key to the on position) before dropping the fuel tank and bench testing the fuel pump that seems to be ok.
your feedback and response is appreciated.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
If power at the IFS switch, then the CCRM is good and the fuse is good.
PATS does not disable power to the FPDM. It works by disabling the fuel injectors.
Sorry, the computer ate the long response I wrote, so this is a re-type.
Since there is power to the FPDM, and the fuel pump itself is good, the likely failure points are:
Bad FPDM
bad trunk ground
Wiring fault between FPDM and PCM or FPDM and the fuel pump itself.
bad PCM
Before replacing the FPDM, I would confirm no FPDM output. Test the RD/BK and BN/PK wires. The output will be a series of on/off pulses. So test on AC and DC scales. It will be necessary to key cycle to make the pump prime.
PATS does not disable power to the FPDM. It works by disabling the fuel injectors.
Sorry, the computer ate the long response I wrote, so this is a re-type.
Since there is power to the FPDM, and the fuel pump itself is good, the likely failure points are:
Bad FPDM
bad trunk ground
Wiring fault between FPDM and PCM or FPDM and the fuel pump itself.
bad PCM
Before replacing the FPDM, I would confirm no FPDM output. Test the RD/BK and BN/PK wires. The output will be a series of on/off pulses. So test on AC and DC scales. It will be necessary to key cycle to make the pump prime.
ok again thanks for the response you wrote Before replacing the FPDM, I would confirm no FPDM output. so test on AC and DC scales. It will be necessary to key cycle to make the pump prime what do you mean by necessary to key cycle (turn the key to the start or the on position) to checks the meter reading
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
The fuel pump only runs for a few seconds to prime then it shuts off. The PCM does not restart the Fuel pump until the motor is actually running.
The priming occurs each time the ignition key is turned to run (cycled).
If you were to measure the output of the FPDM after it has completed it's prime what would be the reading in all cases (even for a good unit).
The priming occurs each time the ignition key is turned to run (cycled).
If you were to measure the output of the FPDM after it has completed it's prime what would be the reading in all cases (even for a good unit).
Just an update I rechecked everything as recommended pump seems to be priming during the key cycle so at this point everything seems to be functioning to specification however nothing changed with the exception of me inspecting all of the components, bit strange wouldn't you thing? I'm planning to put everything back together to see if it starts. thanks for you assistance I'll keep you posted.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
FWIIW, one of the very first test requested was at the trunk IFS switch. If there is power out of the IFS, then the IFS must be working and passing power. Because of the flow of power, this also proves the CCRM and Fuse.
If the IFS were tripped, there would be power into the IFS but no power out.
So unlikely the OP has/had such a simple problem.
If the IFS were tripped, there would be power into the IFS but no power out.
So unlikely the OP has/had such a simple problem.
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